Koeun Park for Forme 3'3204322896-mens (and womens)wear

[kit]

Don't worry johnny, I used to play for middlesbrough untill i was 17 :-O!

Comes natural

jhaime

The point is , ' Did you shop at PSYCHE , or Heaven forfend , actually work there ? '

Johnny ,B)

Last episode tonight .

As far as Clothes are concerned , to each his or her own . I wouldn't buy Carpe Diem etc etc , but I can see where it's coming from - ALL from Rei Kawakubo and Martin Margiela , and that was what I immediately saw in Forme d'expression , superb clothes as they are .

The fans among the members of this site are nothing if not eloquent on the subject , and fair play to them .
Apart from my vintage YSL and Montana , I have splurged on Issey Miyake , and , surprise surprise , I possess from HERMES , one duffel coat , three jackets and an H belt !!!
Now there's extravagance for you .

My apologies for going off topic , Soft

I consider my wrists smacked .

 

[softgrey]

*SMACK*...

 

[jhaime]

Kit, I'm not sure where I shop has to do with anything exactly? lol

but since you have enquired, and you are such a delightful enquisitive little fello...

i'll let you know...

Yes, I have happy? lol...I bought a couple of Dries Van Noten tee's, some griffin gear, blueblood tee's...about it really...

I'm sure you know yourself it isn't too easy to find nice stuff in the north of england? as, people aren't exactly into designer up here...

sorry soft, I saw someone mention Cdiem, so thought i'd ask...

 

[kit]

Kit, I'm not sure where I shop has to do with anything exactly? lol

but since you have enquired, and you are such a delightful enquisitive little fello...

i'll let you know...

Yes, I have happy? lol...I bought a couple of Dries Van Noten tee's, some griffin gear, blueblood tee's...about it really...

I'm sure you know yourself it isn't too easy to find nice stuff in the north of england? as, people aren't exactly into designer up here...

sorry soft, I saw someone mention Cdiem, so thought i'd ask...

Sorry .

It was the mention of Middlesborough .

Did you see the 3 part documentry on Psyche on BBC4 ?

It was the juxtaposition of labels like Forme d'expression , Carpe Diem etc and the 'footballer ' gear available in that particular shop .

Train of thought .........
Stream of consciousness ..........

Didn't mean to offend . It's my pills doing the talking .

Mea culpa .

Pax ?

 

[softgrey]

okey dokey...
so.........back on topic....

i see kit's poiint about the comme influence here...
as far as margiela..
well, he seems to be a rei disciple, so it's really still rei, no?...
and maybe yohji as well...

it appears that the comme/yohji influence is exceptionally strong these days..
there seems to be a 'dark cloud' descending on the fashion industry these days...
the influence can be seen in all the 'hot' parisian design houses...
elbaz, jacobs, theyskens, pilati...the one exception may be chloe...

this is what i referred to in another thread when i said that there seems to be a japanese renaissance happening these days...

it's as if people got tired of all that 'happy' colourful (phony) post 9/11 fashion ...
trying to force people to be happy by giving them floral party dresses is just 'dumb' IMHO...

this stuff seem much more in tune with the real mood of the world today...
and apparently people are ready for it...

 

[Johnny]

okey dokey...
so.........back on topic....

i see kit's poiint about the comme influence here...
as far as margiela..
well, he seems to be a rei disciple, so it's really still rei, no?...
and maybe yohji as well...

it appears that the comme/yohji influence is exceptionally strong these days..
there seems to be a 'dark cloud' descending on the fashion industry these days...
the influence can be seen in all the 'hot' parisian design houses...
elbaz, jacobs, theyskens, pilati...the one exception may be chloe...

this is what i referred to in another thread when i said that there seems to be a japanese renaissance happening these days...

it's as if people got tired of all that 'happy' colourful (phony) post 9/11 fashion ...
trying to force people to be happy by giving them floral party dresses is just 'dumb' IMHO...

this stuff seem much more in tune with the real mood of the world today...
and apparently people are ready for it...

Great minds etc - my comment on this was "As well as C Diem, it's really comme-influenced in the victoriana shapes, jackets with curved lines etc. I also see Margiela too."

I think all of this is a great example of postmodernism. I'm not sure its a reaction or re-reaction to 9/11. All of these labels that we're talking about are European - I don't think that that event had anywhere near the same impact here. I think it's more of a reaction to 90's "slickness", and it's an appeal to "intellectualism" in fashion much like comme and yohji when they first started. It's the idea that these things are not classically or obviously appealing to look at, but that there is beauty in the construction and then destruction. Deconstruction I suppose.

I do like it but I think it's a very "fashiony" look to pull off. There aren't many people who'll have access to this stuff, thus anyone wearing it will look, well, "fashiony". I still need a wee bit of colour too. B)

 

[kit]

okey dokey...
so.........back on topic....

i see kit's poiint about the comme influence here...
as far as margiela..
well, he seems to be a rei disciple, so it's really still rei, no?...
and maybe yohji as well...

it appears that the comme/yohji influence is exceptionally strong these days..
there seems to be a 'dark cloud' descending on the fashion industry these days...
the influence can be seen in all the 'hot' parisian design houses...
elbaz, jacobs, theyskens, pilati...the one exception may be chloe...

this is what i referred to in another thread when i said that there seems to be a japanese renaissance happening these days...

it's as if people got tired of all that 'happy' colourful (phony) post 9/11 fashion ...
trying to force people to be happy by giving them floral party dresses is just 'dumb' IMHO...

this stuff seem much more in tune with the real mood of the world today...
and apparently people are ready for it...

I do so agree .

The dark of Japanese fashion is always absolutely relevant , and I'm sure that this is why there are so many new labels like Forme d'expression upholding the tradition .
I just hope that also there is room for a ' colourful ' Japanese designer like Issey Miyake , and a ' bourgeois ' designer like Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent .

 

[battles]

this stuff seem much more in tune with the real mood of the world today...
and apparently people are ready for it...

i was just about to type something that goes along with your lines. i agree, it seems this 'new aesthetic' is likely to be more relevant today.

 

[softgrey]

I think all of this is a great example of postmodernism. I'm not sure its a reaction or re-reaction to 9/11. All of these labels that we're talking about are European - I don't think that that event had anywhere near the same impact here. I think it's more of a reaction to 90's "slickness", and it's an appeal to "intellectualism" in fashion much like comme and yohji when they first started. It's the idea that these things are not classically or obviously appealing to look at, but that there is beauty in the construction and then destruction. Deconstruction I suppose.

well...
just going by all the interviews with the designers during show week...
especially in the first two seasons after the attacks...
so many designers seemed to be going on about the 'mood' in the world and the state that the world was in, etc....
and pointedly expressed a desire to try to 'lighten' the mood with 'pretty' clothes...
the attacks did happen suring fashion week in nyc...
all shows were subsequently cancelled...
which affected editors and buyers from all over...
and wreaked havoc on clothing sales for several seasons...

one glaring exception is the junya watanabe collection for f/w 2002...
which was breathtaking and poetic...
but definitely done by a depressed person...
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26673

i'll never forget the first moment i saw these images...

 

[jhaime]

What do you mean by the 'real mood of the world today'???

There are hundreds of nations & cultures, how can they all be categorised together under 1 'mood'...

especially since it comes within the fastest changing, ever growing & developing, most diverse industry in the world. :|

oh kit, I heard of that programme from a few people, but I never watched it...

I've never actually been inside the shop, I tend to avoid borough for obvious reasons. hee hee...I've only bought from the site.

York & leeds is where you will find me...

 

[PrinceOfCats]

There are hundreds of nations & cultures, how can they all be categorised together under 1 'mood'...

Point. In countries where death is everywhere, events in the Western world probably seem pretty trivial... I imagine the mood is 'perma-depressed' in some countries...

 

[softgrey]

pick pick pick.......

that's like saying you can't generalise...
but we can and necessarily do...

and we are aware enough to realise that there will always be exceptions...
there are no hard fast rules...
but there are general ideas...
and i would venture to say that the fact that so many designers are moving in that direction at once is evidence of that very fact...

maybe i should rephrase it as the 'general' mood of the world today...
whatever floats your boat...
makes no difference to me..

 

[PrinceOfCats]

That sets my flotilla afloat, alright...

 

[softgrey]

sail on, sweet prince...

...

 

[tott]

Well, it could simply be that the colourful 80's trend is moving towards the darker spectrum. We've rehashed one half, and now we're going for the next half. It fits chronologically, sort of... Later 80's were a lot darker than earlier 80's.

Just look at the 70's rehashes we've seen, they were somewhat chronologically correct going from hippie to disco glam. And of course going back and forth, but the hippie was first I think...

But it's just me thinking out loud, there's no reason why fashion would be so cyclical as to "re-invent" itself so regularly...

 

[raijin]

Had a little email exchange with Mr. Koeun.

It seems he hasn't solidified any stockists for Italy and Japan yet, and it is indeed a line new for next season.

 

[softgrey]

i freaking love you guys...
that is a good observation tott...
it is part of the 80's 'thing'...
and if we go by the 20 yr recycle pattern that seems to hold true..
then this is indeed time for this revival...

and raijin...
rock on!!...did you tell him how fabulous we think his stuff is?!?!...
.....

 

[travolta]

awesome discussion. also love the clothes. i also agree w/ what you've been saying for awhile now soft, that the japanese avant garde 'look' is finally in. i think the appeal is that it is non literal..it's functional, but it's also very abstracted..i could see the need for that about now.

 

[xcoldricex]

maybe its because after 20 years, the people that grew up during that time are starting to make money and want to relive their youth and bring it back- through music/fashion... and the designers follow what people with money want?

 

[travolta]

maybe its because after 20 years, the people that grew up during that time are starting to make money and want to relive their youth and bring it back- through music/fashion... and the designers follow what people with money want?

true. what better way to make some money..than pull on the heart strings..childhood nostalgia etc that seems to be integrated in someway into everyone's mission statement...it's also like an epidemic..like designer labels was an "epidemic" and now as a reaction or intervention..we are looking for soul in our clothing..i'm going out on a very abstract analogy limb..but think the hard drugs and partying and extremism like you think of the 80's..no wonder nancy reagan championed programs like Dare and the entire country collectively went into therapy.