Lanvin F/W 2025.26 Paris

[helmutnotdead]

I really wanted to like it because of him but I’m not feeling it. I can’t remember one single look after five minutes.

 

[helmutnotdead]

it’s a good Altuzarra collection at best.

 

[PDFSD]

its a solid NO for me ......any old Alber Elbaz show has more modernity and direction and emotion than this mixed bag of uptown fiasco .

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Peter is usually really good with directional themes. I love his Ricci Fall 2013 (Ballet Inspired) and Oscar Spring 2016 (Spain Inspired); both are super stellar collections that I can recall without Googling. I wonder if he has lost his touch or if the ex-Theory manager is breathing down his neck.

 

[Fiercification]

It's good; a solid collection definitely but I'm not convinced it will be a memorable one 6 + months down the line, although I could be proven wrong.

Lots of good points made in this thread regarding the elements that are really missing; this is definitely heavy and not light like his Nina Ricci used to be, as Lola pointed out. The format of the show made it feel very CWK for Givenchy as others mentioned.

At least you feel like there is a nod to the smoky elegance of the Alber years and even if some of the pieces are dated, there are very beautiful dresses and men's leather coats at the very least.

 

[jeanclaude]

I was hoping for a revamp, a new Lanvin...but this is just Alber Elbaz leftovers mixed with generic clothes filling the rest of the collection.

It has "clearance sale" written all over it.

 

[reese06]

It felt very bare in terms of a full look.
It’s missing a narrative to tie it all together for a debut.

i don’t think this is going to be the collection to bring Lanvin to the forefront.

I’m fine if the clothes or collection anre not “modern” but they don’t have to be dated annd heavy which this collection struggles with. Are there no accessories or jewelry.?

 

[perhydrol]

I think this show is a great starting point, even if it’s a bit too serious. Undoubtedly, there’s plenty of room for further exploration, and I’m eager to see how this story develops in future collections, because it’s genuinely charming. It's so chic and grown-up that it almost feels like a niche offering, in a positive way.

The only thing that annoys me about this, and it’s not Copping’s fault at all, is the ‘Lanvin Characters’ narrative, which doesn’t really make sense anymore, especially now that the house has a new creative director. The CEO should understand that there’s a difference between maintaining continuity and overextending marketing exercises from two years ago. That's exactly why this collection may feel all over the place or not striking enough: it's just too eclectic because it tries to create singular characters. Again, I don't think it was Copping's idea to begin with as he is able to be focused, as proven by his tenures at Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta.

 

[FashionFanatico]

it's a good example of the fact that not every good designer is also a great creative director.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

It's not without its lovely moments, but as others pointed out, it suffers from the current fashion crisis of a lack of POV.

Fashion hasn't lost its ability for collections to tell their own stories, nothing quite gels, and it's like every look is its own separate story. They all belong to the same writer, but there's no cohesion, it's 40+ main characters and no supporting cast. Okay these aren't the best analogies but you get my point lol

 

[TaylorBinque]

I hope this is like a reset of the past housecodes and then next season he show his full formed vision. I will always enjoy his proportions.

 

[Rigida]

My first thought.. why is the color palette so somber??

But then after spending time looking at runway pics one by one, i think there are a lot of gorgeous pieces in this collection!

The dresses were all mostly great and beautiful, Anna will definitely love those patchwork dresses lol

The menswear still feel like Lucas’ but wow.. I think i love all the outerwears presented on the runway.

Based on Sarah Mower’s review, there is a portion of daywear looks that they dont show on the runway.. can someone confirm?

 

[tricotineacetat]

Purely based by the number of desirable looks, I think this is a solid debut - A women‘s look with a beaded black velvet capelet over a sheer blouse was great, as was the following one with a black draped top and ankle-length skirt. The burgundy draped gown as well as the finale of evening dresses were just beautiful.

I love how this collection feels like a gentle continuation of what Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver made it a leading Parisian style institution, there is a similar elegance and ease as well as the saturated jewel colors in Peter Copping’s collection (Happy to see he did not do the colors in his preview and it’s looking more 'somber' and 'Filme Noire' than delicate and pretty like his Nina Ricci that I did not like at all).

What this collection lacks is a strong, directional message but I think it might be too much to expect something along the lines of, say, Olivier Theyskens' debut collection for Rochas - This is the kind of collection that makes sense where the house is at and the economic climate the high fashion industry is faced with right now. This is a commercially solid collection above all and providing enough renewal for Lanvin to be a noteworthy brand again.

 

[Norden]

I think it’s a very solid debut, while agreeing with the comments about this collection in terms of story telling. If he gets that part in order his lanvin will be really strong.

So much of this collection I find desirable, even the menswear. Finally maturity at lanvin again. I can see people wear this in the same way they would wear original dries van noten.

 

[Lola701]

it's a good example of the fact that not every good designer is also a great creative director.

His Nina Ricci was good. Actually great. From the campaigns to the shows and to the people they associated the brand with…

It’s just a good example of the fact that not every good designer will deliver a stellar collection just because they are good.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Indeed, strong debut for him at Lanvin!

I enjoyed most of the looks. However, the men's part is really weak to me especially those ugly trousers. It felt very cheap compared to the women's looks which were chic and luxurious.

This is why I don't like co-ed show: the men's always comes out as an afterthought.

Hopefully his whole vision and the story telling would be stronger with the visuals.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Look 48 is a charming beauty.

The rest of this fine. It makes for a solid debut but a lot of it ends up looking very corporate both in style and in decision. Which is okay. In fact it may be for the better as Lanvin really needs a boost to their image, clientele and sales.

I hope things start to get more interesting and “lighter” as the seasons go on. This is assuming Copping will stick around for more than three years… so finger crossed.

 

[tatouejeremie]

i think those interim collections by the team were actually better and fresher than what's going on here

 

[Xone]

Usually the first or debut collection for me is always a big ? i see his intentions, it lacked good editing and focus...i think he will be better for the next collections. imagine all the pressure on him and im saying not to feel sorry for him but like it or not the phycological factor also affects....for me he has a pass this time but i need to see better results on the upcoming collections...

Who styled this?

 

[Creative]

The more I see it the less I understand it. What is the point of doing this in couture week when the design is at the level of a NYFW show?

Literally nothing special here… and the references to Alber, who was one of the biggest masters of the XXI century, fall beyond flat and poor. It’s like… please, leave it aside because he did it a thousand times better.

Just seeing this I can tell the revamp is going to be a flop. I don’t think Peter is 2025 ready.

His Nina Ricci was not bad but he couldn’t make it a success. I think Lavin is going to be even worse and more of a non-event.