LaQuan Smith S/S 2025 New York

I think it's one of his better collections. Lots of great layering pieces. 'Quan zig zags between credible high fashion and really godawful taste.

LS needs to control his intrusive thoughts...if he chopped out the mesh bodysuitS and the mens chain topS with pants falling off the model - we would be in much better shape here. 50 looks is too much, chop it down to 30... pretty much all the sheer stretch stuff has got to go!!!

The nude sequin bustier with slacks is one of the best looks. The belted ballon shorts done in the perfect material shows Laquan's big potential. The tiered pink baby doll, another uber-desirable piece that is original high fashion....
 
It's 100% escorts going to their night shift.
What I don't understand is why TFS considers Ludovic de Saint-Sernin trashy-gross but Laquan Smith is trashy-but-loveable ?
i was going to say something but it'd sound very mean towards LdSS so i'll keep it cute lol but imo one the reasons is personality/charisma and despite being trashy, LS propostions are quite believable and if you remove the gaudy real housewives of whatever styling its possible to find acceptable pieces
 
It's 100% escorts going to their night shift.
What I don't understand is why TFS considers Ludovic de Saint-Sernin trashy-gross but Laquan Smith is trashy-but-loveable ?

They’re both very one-note with the sex worker identity. LaQuan is just so much more playful and versatile, even experimental, at it.

My annoyance with Ludevic is he’s very limited: leather and lace-up thongs, skimpy t-shirt dress and a leather blazer does not make a collection: It's just a scene. Factor in how serious, even pretentious he comes off, down to walking like he’s one of his models for his finale, is so insufferable— and unintentionally hilarious. No doubt his collab with Gaultier is going to be more lace-up leather thongs, leather blazers, and in keeping with the Gaultier assignment— lots and lots of lace-up leather bustiers and corsets. The cast will be sexy AF of course and the boots will be good, as usual tho…

LaQuan on the other hand, has really grown technically as a designer. The trashy/stripper/escort element is still loud and proud, but the tailoring and construction has impressibly improved, and he’s offering a complete lifestyle look. And that he’s remained true to a certain standard of dressing, and who he’s dressing (LOL), is admirable. That men’s khaki cotton suit with the wide pant and the cloth-covered buttons looks solid… but then the too-wide pimp lapels LMFAO
 
It's 100% escorts going to their night shift.
What I don't understand is why TFS considers Ludovic de Saint-Sernin trashy-gross but Laquan Smith is trashy-but-loveable ?
It's quite simple. LdSS insist on intellectualising every ascpect of his work, while LQS never takes his trashy side seriously. His work is always light-hearted, fun and warm. Also, you can wear LQS out of the runway context. You can wear looks 1 and 4 with most modest heels. You can wear the coat from look 9 with a shirt and trousers underneath. You can't do this with LdSS' designs.
 
It's 100% escorts going to their night shift.
What I don't understand is why TFS considers Ludovic de Saint-Sernin trashy-gross but Laquan Smith is trashy-but-loveable ?
Maybe because some people in fashion wants to sell us that idea that what LDSS is doing is edgy or more than what it’s actually.

Laquan is unapologeticallly trash. The US version of Eurotrash. He owns it. It’s video vixen, clubs-going fashion. It’s so obvious that it becomes funny.

It’s a bit like Dsquared2, with a not so perfect execution.
It’s a bit like Julien MacDonald against Dean and Dan. The twins incarnate it better so they are loveable and fun.
 
^^^ Julien’s sensibilities would be such a welcome these days! He was gravely under-appreciated during his day.

I can imagine a certain vibe, with a cast of Bianca Jagger/Halston/Paloma Picasso/Calvin Klein surrounded by their phalanx of boytoys hedonism with LaQuan’s aesthetic. It’s a wardrobe for trashy decadence that’s also smouldering.

With Ludevic’s, the gorgeous cast feels like they’re just there, wearing these strings of leathers-- because they’re paid to do so, and for their time. It’s very unwelcoming— giving Pasolini’s Saló vibes.

LaQuan is by no means some saviour to American fashion. He’s just a much welcomed alternative to the plague of banality and the apparent Phoebe-wannabes that’s become NYFW.
 
Always looks cheap.
And bridal swim to close? Get off the catwalk, please.

Terrible.
 
I’m okay for this to exist if it remains in a space like The Blonds or Christian Covan where we already know it will never grow further than dressing pop stars for the stage and a NYC niche label existence.

I can see this guy leveraging his connections to become a judge for Top Model or any show hosted by Heidi Klum but he clearly doesn’t have the finesse to be taken seriously as a designer.
 
I always enjoy his shows. Some skirts may be too short and some v cuts may be too deep but he still delivers an entertaining show for his target clientele and must be making money if he's still around. In a world of stuffy and strange shows its refreshing to have unapologetically 2000s sexy video vixen aesthetics music and casting.
 
The make of this is so so poor. But what I think is the ugliest thing here is that snake skin print on papery looking vinyl (honestly what is it...). That last look as well is bad. Not because it is an attempt at bridal, but the stuffed cups showing through is just a poor look for someone trying to be a more established designer.

The skirt in Look 11 (and the variant in 29) is something I have seen far too much in far too many iterations lately.
 

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