Lemaire Men's S/S 2021 Paris

[Benn98]

Vogue

 

[Benn98]

Vogue

 

[Benn98]

There is a certain ease and confidence about the men's line. Could be Margaret Howell or a Scandinavian brand, it's that good. Women's looks are quite generic imo.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

There is a certain ease and confidence about the men's line. Could be Margaret Howell or a Scandinavian brand, it's that good. Women's looks are quite generic imo.

Agreed! I love the wide-legged trousers in some of the men's looks and they don't feel "stuffy" which is great.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

The BEST collection of these covid era collections so far! Already adding the printed items and those sandals to my list.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I’d steal money to buy something by Lemaire. I f*cking swear!

 

[Royal-Galliano]

so so so so soooo good!

 

[Fiercification]

It's fine, nowhere near as impactful as the F/W 2020 collection, but I wouldn't expect it to me. I'm not thrilled, but compared to others Lemaire is of course in another league - if only for trusting his own instincts. I'm not sure how the whole suit + sandal look will fly though, it seems a bit pretentious as a menswear proposition to me.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Sad that they had to go co-ed, it's better for each line to have its proper show but I get the need to use resources more wisely.

Nice collection, the print are really appealing. It's all so wearable and pared down but with that cool parisian flavor coming through clearly.

 

[eugenius]

In previous seasons, the more voluminious cuts of his pants were just right. This time, however, the cut's is a little too baggy for my taste...heading into 90s ravewear territory there.

And I'm certainly not a fan of earthtones in the slightest, but in his hands, they do look quite easy. And I can see a lot of those colors looking fantastic on all sorts of skin tones.

Good job on the casting here, too. I can totally see everybody here wearing Lemaire in real life.

 

[Nomar]

I thought the menswear was good but the womenswear was better.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Those hideous 80ies blazers belong burned, unfortunately here at Lemaire, they look particularly vile.

He has good pieces as usual, but as an overall look, with all the oversized piled on top of another, the results look sloppy. A few more fitted pieces would have helped to balance out the silhouettes, but I already get the feeling that pragmatism isn't exactly his strength.

 

[Nymphaea]

This is just as basic as Prada, the only difference is they used the double amount of fabric.

Lemaire used to be attractive but for a time now the magic is gone. Maybe he is better off at a fashion house where he has to follow codes just like at Hermes.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The problem I have with Lemaire as of late is that his silhouette propositions are everything but practical - They remind me an awful lot of when Ann Demeulemeester and Helmut Lang became 'complicated' brands in the mid 2000s with all the layers upon layers needed to replicate the show styling. The fact that most of this sinks in all the oversize doesn't help with that, either. The better Lemaire collections are those where a single piece was enough to do the talking, but in recent years I find that a few too many styling tricks have infiltrated their design process.

I've said this before but at this point I really prefer what comes out of his thought process at Uniqlo where the end result has to be a bit more pragmatic and each piece is thought out to function alone. You can get a similar oversized trenchcoat there, if not in luxury fabrics then at least in Uniqlo's blocktech canvas which at the very least still functions as a technical outerwear garment. As the prices for his own collection are rising, the question is whether or not a line like this is needed on the high-end luxury tier is needed or if his niche is actually a bit lower than that.