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Paloma Elsesser, Liu Wen And Kai-Isaiah Jamal Get Candid On The State Of Diversity And Inclusion In Modelling
By Daniel Rodgers
4 December 2023
Earlier this year – just as initial reports were breaking that [insert newly thin Hollywood star here] had been prescribed Ozempic – I heard a former colleague mention that an influential fashion publicist had tasked themselves with acquiring the controversial (and unofficial) weight loss drug from the States, and was passing it onto their peers in London and Paris. If true, it was the most explicit example of regression in action to have entered into insider discourse in a long time. Rumours like this – teamed with a downward spiral in the number of plus-sized models at fashion week – saw some of the most esteemed journalists in fashion speculating on the so-called return of size zero. With good reason: less than one per cent of models across the spring/summer 2024 shows were plus-size.
But reports that fashion had made a cataclysmic backslide were a little inflated. Yes, previous seasons had taken small steps towards inclusion – the autumn/winter 2023 season featured 3.4 per cent more models above a size four, while The Fashion Spot reported that five percent of spots on the New York runways went to plus-size models for spring 2023 – but it hadn’t yet become the industry default. And that’s without mentioning the specific prejudices facing POC, disabled and trans models – on which there is even less data. But we don’t need statistics and well-intentioned bar graphs to tell us this. High-fashion – much like culture as a whole – has long maintained staid notions of what it means to be and look luxurious: ie, white and thin and cisgendered. And so, when a model does happen to break through the glass – or concrete – ceiling, there is that much more reason to celebrate their success.
Tonight, the public will crown either Paloma Elsesser, Anok Yai, Liu Wen, Alton Mason, Mona Tougaard, or Kai-Isaiah Jamal as the Model of the Year at the 2023 Fashion Awards, the British Fashion Council’s most diverse line-up of nominees yet. “My ‘beauty’ interrogates what we know to be the rule in fashion,” Elsesser says. “So while I reap many privileges in the world as a ‘beautiful person’ my beauty in the industry always has to be qualified. There has been a positive shift, for sure, but there is still so much work to be done. I feel grateful to be included in the fabric of so many designers’ efforts to reflect inclusion.” Among these brands are Sinéad O’Dwyer, Ester Manas, Karoline Vitto and Collina Strada, who are duly positioning non-standard models as figures of aspiration, which should give pause to tentpole houses that have more than enough resources – time, staff, funding – to do the same.
But progress, as we all know, does not stop at representation. Are the clothes worn by curve models even put into production? How diverse are the ateliers and leadership teams? Are diverse casting practices inclusive of people with non-Eurocentric features or without “hourglass” bodies or those who use wheelchairs? Are there wheelchair ramps at fashion shows? “For me, one of the biggest issues is that people want to appear as if they are doing the work without doing the uncomfortable unlearning and relearning which will create revolutionary change,” Jamal explains. “I would like to see more marginalised people in top positions (CEOs, designers, creative directors) who can actually implement and create an inclusive community that is authentic and organic. Now more than ever we have seen that fashion cannot be and should never be seen as ‘apolitical’ – we are the people who hold power.”
Below, Liu Wen, Paloma Elsesser and Kai-Isaiah Jamal join Vogue for a roundtable discussion: speaking on their own routes into modelling, the progress that has been made, and the steps yet to be taken.
At what age were you first scouted? Did you have to be persuaded to follow through with it?
Liu Wen: It has been more than a decade since my discovery. I accidentally walked into this industry because of my height. I was quite naïve at the time, but I was lucky to have met so many supportive and encouraging people who boosted my confidence about working in the business. The late Joseph Carle – Marie Claire China’s editor at the time – could be considered my scout. Under his guidance, I was able to step onto international catwalks and start to understand the true allure of this job. Though I was lacking in many ways – English skills, adjustment to tight schedules, stress over countless time zone changes due to travel – I slowly confronted each issue one by one. To get through all of that and to still be working today is all because of that support system, and I’m still moving along on this path.
How does it feel to be considered a very beautiful person? Does it affect the way you view yourself?
Liu: I’ve never considered myself as someone very beautiful. It’s only the career of a “model” that conveys and sculpts what beauty can be. The more people are able to witness my work and understand all sides of me, the more I can help communicate my personal understanding of beauty. Perhaps, when you’re dubbed beautiful on the outside, there are some advantages, but those advantages are not the only factors that determine a person’s worth.
What has been your career highlight so far? What was so great about that moment?
Liu: It’s hard to pinpoint a specific job or moment as a highlight. Everything in its entirety has moulded me into who I am today. Of course, there are some extremely memorable moments: shooting a Vogue cover that helped me grow both career-wise and as a person, becoming Chanel’s global ambassador was a dream come true, and doing many shows and campaigns that helped my overall exposure. Those are all times I cherish, as you never know if you’ll get to experience them again. This kind of life involves joy, anxiety, uncertainty and disappointment, but it’s ultimately an education.
Have you felt inclusion and diversity shift in a positive direction since you first started?
Liu: As time progresses around us, society is also improving and becoming more conscious. The modelling industry is just one part of these ongoing movements. I’m very grateful to be growing alongside everyone in the business, where the understanding and acceptance of each other have created stronger mutual respect. More and more, we’re seeing many different interpretations of “a model” on the fashion stage, and designers have also been able to dig deeper into their creative centres to redefine beauty – which in turn becomes digested by the global audience. These changes are the efforts of a collective, but our desires for in-depth, personal expression may require longer journeys to manifest. We need everyone’s invested effort to achieve that.
Lots of people think we are beginning to backslide. Would you agree? If so, what do you think needs to be done to address this?
Liu: I think everyone will have a different viewpoint on this, because our personal experiences and the way we interpret them differ. The more voices that sound, the more one gains perspective, so we should try to view things through multiple contexts. The more someone can improve their knowledge through cultural touchpoints, the more we gain mutual acceptance.
And finally, what would you like to be remembered for within fashion?
Liu: I don’t really wish to be remembered. In the end, everything I’ve worked on is the result of a creative team’s collaboration, and I’m only playing one role within it. I’d rather remain a canvas for others to leave their artistic marks on, because I have been formed by that process and I continue to transform. Modelling is my career, and when I leave the job, I’ll return to being a regular person again. Until that happens, I only wish to perform at my best, be courageous in my own creativity, and live a colourful life through it all.
In the eyes of artist Chen Ke, supermodel Liu Wen has the perseverance of a female warrior. Therefore, among her many fashion works, Chen Ke selected a photo by Ren Haihua in Vogue+ in which Liu’s image exactly matches her impression. “It’s consistent with the female warriors and heroines who has power in the movies. In addition, the metal accessories and the shape of the clothing have a futuristic feel, as if they are the fusion of humans and machines, and have strong characteristics of the times.” With such powerful visual expression, she finally chose to use this model, Liu Wen, to depict an Asian female face with global influence. “After paying attention to a lot of Liu’s pictures, I feel her sunny, independent, and inner-strong female charm. The final portrait selected not only showcase Liu’s own personality traits, but also match mine. The expression of the painting is consistent. I outline the female values that I admire: the right to choose, the elimination of weakness, independence and creativity.”