It’s that level of couturey craftsmanship in RTW that’s all but missing these days getting people excited. But all I see is just scraps from his superior Balenciaga days now wrangled together with the desperation of #lookatme! social media aesthetic. The Dapper Dan Christmas wrapping paper patchwork and flame design are beyond desperately overwrought and heavy-handed imprinting. Sadly, restraint is lost on him nowadays. And it’s just as well, since none of these will make it to the retail floor and just relegated to the brand’s 80,000 ambassadors on the red carpet.
Even more obnoxious is this need to corporate flex with the enormous football-field-as-catwalk, where the cast has to walk a kilometre just to circle the runway. Can’t suffer his presentations: Just soulless, charmless and graceless. Thank goodness for the latest Dries/Khaite/Tom Ford presentations that don’t require a stadium to create an impact.
Nicolas and his Vuitton has become the Trump International Hotel Las Vegas of fashion.