Louis Vuitton S/S 2004

[metal-on-metal]

Vuitton: Jacobs Goes for the Gold

By Godfrey Deeny
October 12, 2003 - Paris

All that glitters is definitely gold at Louis Vuitton this season, from the golden ostrich coat that finished its catwalk show Sunday to the trim on its new bag, sported on the front-row even before it appeared on the catwalk.

Vuitton’s creative director Marc Jacobs showed the bag, done in canvas with gold leather trim, in clutch, weekend, pill box, half moon and sausage shape. Delphine Arnault, whose daddy Bernard owns LVMH, the luxury mammoth that controls a half-century of brands, among them Vuitton, showed up bearing the aforementioned gold sack Sunday at the label’s spring/summer 2004 show.

Yet Delphine was not to sport the new bauble. That honor went to Virginie Mouzat, fashion critic of Le Figaro, who had already sported the sack the day before at a Givenchy show.

"I had a bag for every look. Every girl had a bag, and we have a great new one this season, which we showed in all sorts of ways. So, you can’t complain. Okay?" Jacobs stated emphatically to Arnault and family backstage, as a squadron of camera crews swarmed around.

Told by Arnault that they would meet on Monday, Jacobs responded, "I’m not working Monday. I’ve been working for three days and I had an operation on my neck Tuesday," before politely agreeing to a 5pm get-together.

Staged as ever in the modernist glasshouse in Parc Andre Citroen, the show got off to a great start when a giant black curtains fell from the ceiling plunging the space into darkness, illuminated only by searchlights projecting the LV logo.

Backed by a sturm und drang cinema soundtrack and a great remix of "Milkshake" by Kelis, courtesy of sound architect Frederic Sanchez, the show opened with silk model Riane in a silk top and crepe de chine sarong and fan-shaped bag with gold chain. A post-show inspection revealed that the chain was a series of minuscule Vuitton locks.

As retainers and fans imbibed champagne, stylists and fashion directors made off to shoots with specially prepared packages containing the new bags.

The actual clothes themselves were very fine indeed. A mix of studded cashmere cardigans, linen trenches with horizontal panels, and embroidered suede jackets with sequined bars, they were a fine blend of the commercial and the ironic. The cut was figure hugging, though the clever draping made the silhouette look
relaxed.

But, in the end, all eyes were on the bags. Unlikely anyone there would forget, but the world’s most consistently profitable luxury brand is essentially a bag maker. The fashion collection itself only sells in a select few of Vuitton’s stores.

Sounds incredible! And the few pictures I've seen so far confirm this. Pictures to be posted soon!

 

[metal-on-metal]

Wow! What a great collection. Some of these design elements are totally new and inventive. Marc delivered for Vuitton what was lacking in his own show. Very beautiful, totally feminine, and those amazing bags!

 

[metal-on-metal]

 

[nay-k]

I really love it
very feminine.........

 

[Cicciolina]

Thanks for posting that up! I can't decide, I'm not loving it at first glance. Might grow on me or I might have to look at the whole collection.

 

[Belowen]

See Lo, old woman bags

 

[metal-on-metal]

This is just too much! The bags this season have such a wonderful handcraft, special feel to them. It feels like each one is so extremely precious and limited. Like each one is totally unique. I love the artisanal buckles and detailing.

By the by, that last look is gold lame ostrich skin! How incredible!

The only thing I don't like is the 'Louis Vuitton' nameplate necklace.

 

[metal-on-metal]

I think what I like most about this collection is the fact that, for the first time, the clothes at Vuitton are able to stand by themselves as testaments to creativity and great design. Previously, they were always overshadowed by graffiti and logo and Murakami. They are now able to shine on their own.

 

[ignitioned32]

Classic Marc for Vuitton. B)

He definetly deliviered.

And the bags are gorgeous.

 

[trean]

Looks more like Chloe then Vuitton to me..

I don't like the bags at all right now ...

 

[Lena]

not at all sure about this collection, i mean shiny velvet ? for spring?
only liked the lamè trick here

i certainly i do not like most of those bags apart from the new box ones

thanks for posting this chick

 

[Ärtan]

I like some of it.

 

[ignitioned32]

I love this dress.

 

[ignitioned32]

From Suzy Menkes of IHT

Louis Vuitton: It's the brand with the Midas touch
Suzy Menkes IHT Monday, October 13, 2003
It's the brand with the Midas touch - and Marc Jacobs went for gold in his splendid Louis Vuitton show on Sunday. It may have been inspired by the silver screen, with latter-day Theda Baras in dresses and coats pieced from panne velvet, but gold was the message. It appeared on chains caging a soft silk skirt, through the platform-soled shoes and the has-to-be-a-hit new bag: in rough canvas with gilded leather straps. Jacobs is already a darling of young Hollywood and this was a witty glance at an older vintage, with Cleopatra looks sending the Art Deco message that has been a story of the season. The show opened with Cecil B. De Mille grandeur as black curtains fell over the glass-roofed venue while a projection of the LV logo whirled round the walls and onto the opening outfit of a silky top and skirt. The show ended with a dramatic ostrich coat in burnished gold. What did the Egyptian theme, the silken shorts, bead-fringed skirts, wide satin sailor pants and gladiator pleats have to do with Vuitton's travel heritage? Hey! Cleopatra sailed down the Nile. And you bet she could have used every one of those delicious bags.

Agreed. B)

 

[Oria]

Originally posted by chickonspeed@Oct 13th, 2003 - 2:17 am
I think what I like most about this collection is the fact that, for the first time, the clothes at Vuitton are able to stand by themselves as testaments to creativity and great design. Previously, they were always overshadowed by graffiti and logo and Murakami. They are now able to shine on their own.

I like these bags, they are nice for my personal taste. I don't know about those clothes though. I've never really looked to LV for their clothes.

 

[Tinuviel]

I like it, very unexpected. the new bags!

 

[metal-on-metal]

You can view the collection on video at www.vuitton.com. There is also a short backstage segment.

 

[asta]

i think that this looks like prada goes to a ucla game.

what was with the first page? so frumpy.

i do smell $$$ for the vuitton company though. the bags are Great!

i do like the satin pants that tie at the waist, the cut lames, and this dress:

 

[HBoogie]

I think it's better than last season (I really disliked that collection). I like the bags a lot, although there is bit too much metallic in the clothing for my liking.

 

[pinkcouture]

I love the clothes but I'm not really crazy about the bags...