Louis Vuitton S/S 2025 Paris

[j02215]

Beautiful propositions and really beautiful execution. There is an ease to it when all parts just work together that I really enjoyed.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Fashion, bold, underline and italics. I mean, it would not have been an NG show without testing my taste limit. But god, this collection feels like a complete package. Everything sings and dances together so perfectly. Even the ugly shoes. LV has the strongest accessories game. PERIODT.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I find a lot of the silhouettes in this show to be too far removed from what the end customer will likely add to her wardrobe, and by that I don't mean the brand ambassador who gets paid to wear the collection but the devoted customer, possibly an Asian woman that is not as tall as a model, which will make a lot of these looks s huge challenge to wear.

What I liked about his Balenciaga heydays was how the majority of the show could translate as is to the shops, most of what he showed was not so challenging in terms of taste. It‘s almost the ultimate snobbery that he puts out the most challenging things on the runway, for the illustrious few who 'get' it, because, mon dieu, making perfectly likeable and understandable clothes is very much below Monsieur Ghesquière's level these days. 🙄

 

[TaylorBinque]

Also, the set design is serving. Simple but very effective. You want elevated runway? Here it is.

 

[Lola701]

Great and surprising collection from Nicolas!
Despite the layering in the styling, the amount of flow made it so enjoyable. Seeing those fabrics floating as the girls walked was fabulous!
I could do without the corsaire pants, the shoes and the one-legged pants but it’s a good collection.

It’s unmistakably Ghesquiere but it’s still surprising, bold and fresh.
It’s a proposition, it’s inventive and then, it’s up to the women who can afford it to play with it.

The set reminded me of the MJ days in the early 00’s. I loved the soundtrack as usual.

It’s really the best show of PFW with Celine.

And I can’t wait to see Brune Buonomano in one of those pieces!

 

[liberty33r1b]

going against consensus here, but I thought most of it looked hideous, and those striped pants were the worst

 

[Caffeine]

I find a lot of the silhouettes in this show to be too far removed from what the end customer will likely add to her wardrobe, and by that I don't mean the brand ambassador who gets paid to wear the collection but the devoted customer, possibly an Asian woman that is not as tall as a model, which will make a lot of these looks s huge challenge to wear.

What I liked about his Balenciaga heydays was how the majority of the show could translate as is to the shops, most of what he showed was not so challenging in terms of taste. It‘s almost the ultimate snobbery that he puts out the most challenging things on the runway, for the illustrious few who 'get' it, because, mon dieu, making perfectly likeable and understandable clothes is very much below Monsieur Ghesquière's level these days. 🙄

After following the FW2024 runway show to the stores (I finally got my dress), I think that most of these exaggerated looks would not be produced. They offered his vision, but ultimately only the most wearable pieces will be made, such as those pretty little dresses.
The Chanel like necklaces are going to sell like crazy, so are other accessories.

 

[tourbillions]

For the most part the asians who do buy his RTW always look great in them. It fits them even more than their western counterparts.

 

[MulletProof]

going against consensus here, but I thought most of it looked hideous, and those striped pants were the worst

YES.

I seriously thought the last look would close some Part 1 and that Part 2 with the 'good' (perhaps eveningwear?) stuff people here are talking about would start haha but nope, that really was it, and it's not great!

 

[tricotineacetat]

After following the FW2024 runway show to the stores (I finally got my dress), I think that most of these exaggerated looks would not be produced. They offered his vision, but ultimately only the most wearable pieces will be made, such as those pretty little dresses.
The Chanel like necklaces are going to sell like crazy, so are other accessories.

Oh I would love if you posted some photos and shared a bit of the process of your special order just like you did in 2006 for the Balenciaga brocade blazer you bought!

 

[Caffeine]

Oh I would love if you posted some photos and shared a bit of the process of your special order just like you did in 2006 for the Balenciaga brocade blazer you bought!

Ah that little black dress is not a special order actually, straight from the runway w/ only a tiny bit of alteration. I tried to take some pics the other day only to see my two boys messing with me by running around making faces in front of the mirror

 

[Lola701]

After following the FW2024 runway show to the stores (I finally got my dress), I think that most of these exaggerated looks would not be produced. They offered his vision, but ultimately only the most wearable pieces will be made, such as those pretty little dresses.
The Chanel like necklaces are going to sell like crazy, so are other accessories.

I think the process is getting closer to Couture anyway.
They have a database of devoted clients who will order the runway pieces from the Re-see. The less adventurous will place an order but it’s never confirmed because someone can snatch the piece before you when they receive it and then the rest of the world, like me will deal with what is produced.

I find a lot of the silhouettes in this show to be too far removed from what the end customer will likely add to her wardrobe, and by that I don't mean the brand ambassador who gets paid to wear the collection but the devoted customer, possibly an Asian woman that is not as tall as a model, which will make a lot of these looks s huge challenge to wear.

What I liked about his Balenciaga heydays was how the majority of the show could translate as is to the shops, most of what he showed was not so challenging in terms of taste. It‘s almost the ultimate snobbery that he puts out the most challenging things on the runway, for the illustrious few who 'get' it, because, mon dieu, making perfectly likeable and understandable clothes is very much below Monsieur Ghesquière's level these days. 🙄

Yes but to have discussed the issue with my SA, you have to remember that ultimately, Balenciaga by NG spoke to a HF customer anyway…And not a luxury customer. The person who bought the capsule was likely a client of Balenciaga Edition, the commercial version of the runway stuff and The runway stuff.

At Louis Vuitton, they have essentially 3 different types of customers for the RTW: they have a classic luxury customer who wants the logo, a more classic clientele and the HF one.

And in reality, the average customer of Louis Vuitton RTW wants a tshirt, a sweater, a jacket. The HF one takes an appointment to try the clothes…So it’s a special service in essence. Therefore, it limit the access.

The same way, they have women who collects the Petite Malle and the offer of Petite Malle is more or less exclusive depending the stores.

And to go back to the Balenciaga days, those clothes were very challenging for their time…Either in the cut or the fabrics. It’s almost a miracle that something like FW2007 was a commercial success. Those jodhpurs were unwearable! But the commercial version of those clothes was exceptional.

 

[Caffeine]

deal with what is produced

I would say that 80% of the garments in the store are logo products. I'm guessing lower than 30% of the runway pieces are produced.

Chanel has a different approach. I guess they don't pretend to be "fashion" now so for RTW, what you see is what you get. You can preorder w/ sales in general. Almost everything shown is made. All you need is $$.

 

[Caffeine]

jodhpurs

I never dared to try them

 

[THD96]

Another FW highlight for me. My Nicolas never lets me down.

It’s a perfect combination between his design and MAS styling. The layering doesn’t distract me because the collection flows beautifully on the models.
The softness of the collection is what interesting me the most this season.
I want the last three shirts for myself. They are so good.

Give him a couture atelier already.

And I can’t wait to see Brune Buonomano in one of those pieces!

You know i just watched his interview with Marina Foïs and I can see how he designed this collection with her in mind as his ultimate muse. This collection is perfect for her. So modern

 

[Lola701]

I would say that 80% of the garments in the store are logo products. I'm guessing lower than 30% of the runway pieces are produced.

Chanel has a different approach. I guess they don't pretend to be "fashion" now so for RTW, what you see is what you get. You can preorder w/ sales in general. Almost everything shown is made. All you need is $$.

Chanel under Karl was quite easy in terms of translation. They just removed the embellishments, particularly in his last decade as the clothes were embroideries-heavy.

Me personally, for my lifestyle, I like the commercial versions of the show from Louis Vuitton. Sometimes, it’s as simple as the same pieces with no embellishments.

And as I was a Balenciaga customer, I still respond to Nicolas’s simple pants and blazers as a like his cut. But the majority of the customers wants the coat with the monogram inside, the shirt with the monogram print. They don’t care about the cut. And that’s not the promise of Louis Vuitton anyway.

I never dared to try them

It’s simple, they were made to be worn with heels and hands in the pocket. And when I say heels, I should say sandals.
Once you removed your hands of the pockets, it was a catastrophe!

However, all the khaki pants they made for the commercial collection was great. I particularly loved the insert of suede in between the tights area!

But I must say that trying the SS2008 was an experience. It was silk on neoprene if I remember and it was such a weird sensation.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

There's one thing that's becoming a burden for Nicolas and that's the need to intellectualise too much.

This race to innovate often verges on the ugly.

I appreciate and greatly respect the way he multiplies references, recontextualising everything to bring something innovative to the table but, unlike his time at Balenciaga, it seems he doesn't know when to stop. Sometimes being limited in your work can be good, and he's really (too) free at LV.

It doesn't help that MAS has ultimately become just an extension of his vision rather than a separate eye. Even if the styling remains lighter than some of the previous collections, I think they could have done with a better balance and a bit more instinct.

Even though I don't like to compare his time at Balenciaga too much, Balenciaga in its complexity was still easier to interpret and subject to fewer styling tricks than LV.

And that's my biggest criticism of this collection, where one part is lighter, absolutely sublime, fresh and modern, and the other part is unnecessarily over the top: the corsair trousers, certain colour combinations, the excessively large necklaces, etc. It's a real shame that the collection doesn't have the right balance.

The big negative: the shoes. I think they are the most awful since he started working for LV.

All that to say that this collection is good and could have been excellent.

Well done for the set! I love this return to the early 2000s with a simple set focused purely on the collection and total black for the guests.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think the process is getting closer to Couture anyway.
They have a database of devoted clients who will order the runway pieces from the Re-see. The less adventurous will place an order but it’s never confirmed because someone can snatch the piece before you when they receive it and then the rest of the world, like me will deal with what is produced.


Yes but to have discussed the issue with my SA, you have to remember that ultimately, Balenciaga by NG spoke to a HF customer anyway…And not a luxury customer. The person who bought the capsule was likely a client of Balenciaga Edition, the commercial version of the runway stuff and The runway stuff.

At Louis Vuitton, they have essentially 3 different types of customers for the RTW: they have a classic luxury customer who wants the logo, a more classic clientele and the HF one.

And in reality, the average customer of Louis Vuitton RTW wants a tshirt, a sweater, a jacket. The HF one takes an appointment to try the clothes…So it’s a special service in essence. Therefore, it limit the access.

The same way, they have women who collects the Petite Malle and the offer of Petite Malle is more or less exclusive depending the stores.

And to go back to the Balenciaga days, those clothes were very challenging for their time…Either in the cut or the fabrics. It’s almost a miracle that something like FW2007 was a commercial success. Those jodhpurs were unwearable! But the commercial version of those clothes was exceptional.

So in essence, it means that a high fashion customer today wants super-challenging looks of divisive taste that are mostly made to order products? Is the 'acquired taste' level the factor that distinguishes high fashion from merely a luxury shopper? And can we even call it RTW when clothes are made in such low quantities, possibly less than 10 pieces worldwide?

I don’t find this quasi-couture direction that leaves the retail collection an almost separate thing from the runway to be a contrived snobbery - I am totally with Rick Owens on his statement from his early days during which he criticized designers who were putting something on the runway that was far removed from what customers would find in the stores. And while yes, his retailers would usually have a ton of his basics in stores, they made sure everything was on offer.

That being said, the sad truth is that while 20 years ago, the majority of high fashion from designers like Nicolas was fairly accessible, consisting of clothes that were for the most part factory made, we see more and more RTW runway collections today that is so crazy expensive as to target the most wealthy 5%.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Chanel under Karl was quite easy in terms of translation. They just removed the embellishments, particularly in his last decade as the clothes were embroideries-heavy.

Me personally, for my lifestyle, I like the commercial versions of the show from Louis Vuitton. Sometimes, it’s as simple as the same pieces with no embellishments.

And as I was a Balenciaga customer, I still respond to Nicolas’s simple pants and blazers as a like his cut. But the majority of the customers wants the coat with the monogram inside, the shirt with the monogram print. They don’t care about the cut. And that’s not the promise of Louis Vuitton anyway.


It’s simple, they were made to be worn with heels and hands in the pocket. And when I say heels, I should say sandals.
Once you removed your hands of the pockets, it was a catastrophe!

However, all the khaki pants they made for the commercial collection was great. I particularly loved the insert of suede in between the tights area!

But I must say that trying the SS2008 was an experience. It was silk on neoprene if I remember and it was such a weird sensation.

Funny how these Jodhpur pants from FW'07 were considered outrageous back then, as a long time buyer from Yohji, I am accustomed to much more challenging silhouettes to think that Nicolas' Balenciaga was quite tame and commercial to me even back in those days - And I don‘t mean that in a negative way!

 

[vogue28]

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