Louis Vuitton S/S 2025 Paris

The runway photos don't do the collection justice. Seeing the clothes' movement, per Lola's comment, was just so stunning! With that being said, the following looks were one of the most FASHION looks I've seen this season.
Looks 11, 12, 36, 39 were great in motion.
Looks 18 (this model is stunning by the way, who is she?) and 43 to 45 felt like a great continuation of 2007-08 Balenciaga. The slicked back hair and the beautiful models for these looks also helped.
Looks 20, 26, 30, 38 all had that Chanel by Lagerfeld influence, while still being very NG. These made me wish he would go to Chanel (and I'm all for Hedi for Chanel, and even I think Nicolas could do better).
 
The most intellectually fulfilling show of the fashion week for me. Makes me stop for a long while and observe, like in front of a painting. With other designers, it's been skip skip skip.
Completely novel looks here and you see his effort. Congratulations.
 
So in essence, it means that a high fashion customer today wants super-challenging looks of divisive taste that are mostly made to order products? Is the 'acquired taste' level the factor that distinguishes high fashion from merely a luxury shopper? And can we even call it RTW when clothes are made in such low quantities, possibly less than 10 pieces worldwide?

I don’t find this quasi-couture direction that leaves the retail collection an almost separate thing from the runway to be a contrived snobbery - I am totally with Rick Owens on his statement from his early days during which he criticized designers who were putting something on the runway that was far removed from what customers would find in the stores. And while yes, his retailers would usually have a ton of his basics in stores, they made sure everything was on offer.

That being said, the sad truth is that while 20 years ago, the majority of high fashion from designers like Nicolas was fairly accessible, consisting of clothes that were for the most part factory made, we see more and more RTW runway collections today that is so crazy expensive as to target the most wealthy 5%.
I don’t know tbh…
I know the rich wants to stand out. As much as people wants to talk about quiet luxury and essentials, for events and things like that, some people wants a statement and are willing to go to Vuitton for a one-of-a-kind proposition.
It’s another option and proposition.

Balenciaga was a niche brand and while Nicolas developed the brand and gave it a newfound credibility, in essence, the people who were buying the clothes were HF customers. Some people aspired to the runway looks and others could simply afford them.

Balenciaga by NG was demi-Couture and a lot of pieces that were on the catwalk were very very expensive at the time. The robot leggings were essentially made to order. But they had leather leggings available to recreate the feel of the silhouette of that season…

I think the question of availability is maybe more obvious here because Nicolas is proposing a very hard-edged proposition for a very commercial brand but in reality, it’s the case for many brands and for a lot of brands in the luxury market.

What’s the ultimate luxury at Louis Vuitton? A custom trunk…
Some of those looks are Couture like in terms of execution. In terms of economy, it doesn’t make sense to produce them in high quantity but it make sense to have them in made to order. In reality, the prices are so high and the pieces so edgy that to produce them in high quantities would be foolish.

The Rick Owens comparison is interesting but I would compare Rick Owens to Balenciaga by NG rather than Vuitton.

Most of my Balenciaga by NG clothes are capsules, Balenciaga edition and the commercial version of the show. But his work at Balenciaga was part of a universe and behind that idea of wardrobe building.

I don’t know, I don’t mind for Vuitton. It’s not a fashion brand. It’s a leather goods luxury maison that happens to propose fashion for selected stores.

And as I said, it was worse under Marc Jacobs. They produced the resort and prefall but the runway collection was a hell to get. They have developed a network of retail since that is accommodating for the RTW.
 
It's so interesting that as Chanel the brand is fading into fashion irrelevance, Coco and Karl are becoming part of the conversation.

You have some Chanel/20s here, some 20s as viewed by the 80s, retro futurist shapes, graphic lines, very leggy and low waist. It's a interesting combination. But what I find incredible is the lightness, the fluidity that sustains the shapes. It feels like Nicolas reached a perfect marriage of movement and form. Seriously, I was not expecting it to be this good.
 


Runway Reflections: Women's Spring-Summer 2025 Show | LOUIS VUITTON​

Runway Reflections.
Unlock unique insights into Nicolas Ghesquière's Women’s Spring-Summer 2025 Show with:
fashion writer Liana Satenstein and fashion archivist Eden Pritikin, during an exclusive YouTube livestream on Friday, October 4th at 6pm.
 
Not my fav but there's still a lot of good stuff. The jackets in the first few looks have a fun shape but are still pretty casual which feels fashion forward. And I really like those fabric necklaces. They evoke a sort of Elizabethan ruffle from far away (or without my glasses lol) and feathery close up. Also the high energy music was a plus
 
I was worried that he was going to let me down after the triumph of F/W 24, but thankfully he's impressed me again. So much to process here and whilst not everything is a hit, there are some wonderful propositions and silhouettes. The accessories, e.g. necklaces and bags really stand out. The simple white cape is beautiful and I think the final looks with the printed jackets and fringed skirts will grow on me (so much more visually appealing than when Prada tried it in 2020). Even the "uglier" shoes, including both the brogues and the feathered ones don't put me off.

Latterly he seems so much more confident at LV and some interesting developments that I've noticed are firstly that after that very "structural" and conceptual S/S 23 collection, he's softened his approach for Spring with this collection and the 2024 set. The other thing is that it really, really feels like he's paying tribute to Marc these days. Yes, some of the earlier looks were very Chanel-ish but the dresses in the middle section with big beaded embellishment read very mid Noughties Vuitton. That's only probably echoed by the set and soundtrack which as many have already stated, took me back to the likes of the S/S 06 show.

I can understand why some of this wouldn't appeal. I really don't think the cycling shorts with the first couple of looks did anything. Once again I just appreciate NG having fun with fashion at the very least, especially in such a serious and bland season otherwise. The highlight for me easily for the second season in a row!
 
I find it ugly and very heavy. There are tons of concepts, tons of prints, tons of details...all thrown at once over the models. No control, no focus; just pure compulsion.

Once again, I am gonna mention his Balenciaga days. Back then you could see each concept clearly, each look and collection was edited to let you see everything at first glance. And there was beauty in his clothes, he made a lot of flattering and modern garments.

This reminds me of a fitting room at the end of the day, with lots of clothes and accessories thrown here and there. But here everything is over the models; and not over the floor!!
 
In will never find his LV appealing. It’s just forced. Like people designing with NG in mind but without his touch. This feels awkward for the sake of it.

Most of it is just ugly.
NG at LV is something I really like the idea of on paper, but the execution never does it for me.

Omg the closeups of the shoes are VIIIIILE. Delete those images @susseinmcswanny
 
another solid season from Nicolas. A new proposition with softer silohuettes. Clothes that are nonchalant and elegant whilst offering some challenging print/colour combos.... congratulations to him, The eye must travel....:heart::heart::heart::heart::heart:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
212,584
Messages
15,190,016
Members
86,478
Latest member
kiillmonger
Back
Top
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"
<-- Admiral -->