So in essence, it means that a high fashion customer today wants super-challenging looks of divisive taste that are mostly made to order products? Is the 'acquired taste' level the factor that distinguishes high fashion from merely a luxury shopper? And can we even call it RTW when clothes are made in such low quantities, possibly less than 10 pieces worldwide?
I don’t find this quasi-couture direction that leaves the retail collection an almost separate thing from the runway to be a contrived snobbery - I am totally with Rick Owens on his statement from his early days during which he criticized designers who were putting something on the runway that was far removed from what customers would find in the stores. And while yes, his retailers would usually have a ton of his basics in stores, they made sure everything was on offer.
That being said, the sad truth is that while 20 years ago, the majority of high fashion from designers like Nicolas was fairly accessible, consisting of clothes that were for the most part factory made, we see more and more RTW runway collections today that is so crazy expensive as to target the most wealthy 5%.
I don’t know tbh…
I know the rich wants to stand out. As much as people wants to talk about quiet luxury and essentials, for events and things like that, some people wants a statement and are willing to go to Vuitton for a one-of-a-kind proposition.
It’s another option and proposition.
Balenciaga was a niche brand and while Nicolas developed the brand and gave it a newfound credibility, in essence, the people who were buying the clothes were HF customers. Some people aspired to the runway looks and others could simply afford them.
Balenciaga by NG was demi-Couture and a lot of pieces that were on the catwalk were very very expensive at the time. The robot leggings were essentially made to order. But they had leather leggings available to recreate the feel of the silhouette of that season…
I think the question of availability is maybe more obvious here because Nicolas is proposing a very hard-edged proposition for a very commercial brand but in reality, it’s the case for many brands and for a lot of brands in the luxury market.
What’s the ultimate luxury at Louis Vuitton? A custom trunk…
Some of those looks are Couture like in terms of execution. In terms of economy, it doesn’t make sense to produce them in high quantity but it make sense to have them in made to order. In reality, the prices are so high and the pieces so edgy that to produce them in high quantities would be foolish.
The Rick Owens comparison is interesting but I would compare Rick Owens to Balenciaga by NG rather than Vuitton.
Most of my Balenciaga by NG clothes are capsules, Balenciaga edition and the commercial version of the show. But his work at Balenciaga was part of a universe and behind that idea of wardrobe building.
I don’t know, I don’t mind for Vuitton. It’s not a fashion brand. It’s a leather goods luxury maison that happens to propose fashion for selected stores.
And as I said, it was worse under Marc Jacobs. They produced the resort and prefall but the runway collection was a hell to get. They have developed a network of retail since that is accommodating for the RTW.