Luar F/W 2024.25 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Nimsay]

What an odd collection. This stuff is really well made but is absolutely dreadful. Those exploded coogie sweaters with a watch necklace is so 2008. The embossed ostrich skirt is interesting but shouldve been done in a wool. More dated looks; showing the thighs. Lots of pleather looking material. Overall its not great.

This is so NY but in that underground way. The new HBA.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

That lapels are done really well for what the silhouettes offer as a challenge. That's all the positive I can really offer but honestly, I just don't get this at all.

And again, looking at this all I can thinks is that Gareth Pugh would have done something better. Some of this also strongly reminiscent to Viktor and Rolf, Sister by Sibling and Walter van Beirendonck.

 

[TerraVera]

hey juelz

it's awkward. and out of touch. the bad proportions and the fluffy boots mixed with the lace throws the whole thing off.
not terrible, just really weird. i hope this isn't clubwear in 2050 for a venus x brooklyn junkyard party. this man is on a mild trip with this collection.

sadly money, invitations, and a venue was wasted on desperate, incoherent mess.

 

[jeanclaude]

Did he smoke shoulder pads while designing this??

 

[GoldenPetals]

Absolutely not.

I don't care how well-constructed this is, it's contrived af. The silhouettes and volumes are DERANGED.

The Viktor & Rolf comparison is apt.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

I see some really nice separates but all together is too cluttered as hell. He got himself the most NYFW attention by casting Beyonce's nephew I guess he must know some really important people.

 

[Lola701]

The NYFW type of « Avant-Garde » (I vomit the word) has that very specific and quite caricatural look.
It’s ambitious. He has something…He did the LVMH Prize and clearly people saw that something.

I question the longevity of this aesthetic. I also question the sincerity beyond the posture.
Now, Luar is a hot name but NYFW seems to only be able to produce Hot young names that disappear.
And I find quite a recurring creative narrative around POC « underground » brands presenting at NYFW.

 

[matheus_s]

whats the hype around this brand? Who is this guy? The collection is a mess. I dont get it... a wrong mix'n'match of THINGS and textures and colors. hell no

 

[LadyJunon]

The NYFW type of « Avant-Garde » (I vomit the word) has that very specific and quite caricatural look.
It’s ambitious. He has something…He did the LVMH Prize and clearly people saw that something.

I question the longevity of this aesthetic. I also question the sincerity beyond the posture.
Now, Luar is a hot name but NYFW seems to only be able to produce Hot young names that disappear.
And I find quite a recurring creative narrative around POC « underground » brands presenting at NYFW.

Unless he manages to produce a series of Rick-Owens-style cash-cow products, before his core customer base hits 35 and no longer has the lifestyle or body type to accommodate his clothes, he's done for. I really don't see him designing suits or workwear any time soon.

I think that the "youngest" long-lasting designer NYFW has produced is Thom Browne, but that mostly because of his lengthy tenure at Moncler and Zegna's gradual investment. Most of his generation consisted of designers who once created fanciful dresses for "It-Girls", but have now resorted to shadowing Phoebe Philo and The Row.