Lutz Huelle S/S 2025 Paris

[Machinegumm]

vogue.com

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It’s cute for Lutz, but bit of a step back from last season. Too much poplin and denim and not enough colour. The touches of gold are nice, but the bandeaus are not the right choice. They’re so hodge podgy and ill fitting.

 

[Norden]

oh man, I love lutz, but there are a couple of things off here.
The styling is a persistent issue, but now also couple with uninteresting make up and hair.
I also find the fabrication and detailing of the garments off and a bit simplistic. It feels unelevated, even though these democratic fabrics might be his thing. I wish he'd cut down on looks, focus more on developing what is good, deeper. I also find the horizontal pleating on the last looks very superfluous, like why is it there? what volume is it creating? what is it solving?
usually his stuff looks really desirable in stores, so lets hope that happens here also. Im always rooting for this guy and buy his stuff, but this presentation could have been sharper and more elevated.

I wish he got more support!

 

[MulletProof]

Too much poplin and denim and not enough colour.

Thank god for that, I don’t like his cheerful palette lol..

I wouldn’t ask him to give up something that clearly makes him happy such as his experiments with denim but, I just pretend I never saw that at this point! he should put it on hold for a bit now that the trashy labels are going to town with their ‘oMg rEcYclEd dEnIm!’ experiments. Other than that, I like that this is sleeker, less baggy, and give me several pairs of these black trousers, now that’s something there’s never enough of and could use an experiment or two!

 

[susseinmcswanny]

One thing I do like about this and Lutz is the lightheartedness. I notice for example most of the recent content Galliano makes for couture is horror related. And while I do love horror, I kind of wonder, and not targeting him specifically, why so many creatives aim to evoke the “negative” emotions in their work. Yes it can be cathartic I guess but there is both the yin and yang to catharsis. Art does not have to solely be about drama and pain. It is kind of refreshing to see someone exploring in the opposite direction.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Also Lutz if you’re reading this pick me

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Once I read Bataille it’s gonna be over for everyone

 

[MulletProof]

I notice for example most of the recent content Galliano makes for couture is horror related. And while I do love horror, I kind of wonder, and not targeting him specifically, why so many creatives aim to evoke the “negative” emotions in their work.

High levels of testosterone (male-dominated area in the field) and effects on a pituitary gland they’ve never bothered to get checked. It pushes people into stuff like horror and other forms of inspiration/entertainment based on aggression.

.. and then they wonder why it doesn’t sych well with female consumers lol.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Thank god for that, I don’t like his cheerful palette lol..

I wouldn’t ask him to give up something that clearly makes him happy such as his experiments with denim but, I just pretend I never saw that at this point! he should put it on hold for a bit now that the trashy labels are going to town with their ‘oMg rEcYclEd dEnIm!’ experiments. Other than that, I like that this is sleeker, less baggy, and give me several pairs of these black trousers, now that’s something there’s never enough of and could use an experiment or two!

True, his choices in colours are rarely the most desirable. They’re very IKEA in a way, and I wish he had a good colourist working alongside him.

The pants are great! He knows his way around legs and also shoulders. They really are imbued with that classic Margiela spirit.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think this is absolutely delightful - Amongst the many independent designers who closed their businesses' during Covid, he understood this was his moment and delivered something strong, repeatedly, that holds the torch up for a design that is both conceptual and desirable to equal amounts, refining his thing in an unhurried pace.

This is the kind of assurance the industry needs and I hope it pays off for him. He deserves it thoroughly. ❤️