LVMH Prize 2021

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by bc collector, Apr 11, 2021.

  1. bc collector

    bc collector Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2006
    Messages:
    336
    Likes Received:
    777
    In the wake of the selection of the finalists for the LVMH Prize 2021, I had a look at their website where, for the first time, there is a digital showroom where the semi-finalists can introduce themselves and their work and, more importantly, the viewers can vote their favourite. What is your pick (or prediction) for this year edition?

    p.s.: was it my computer or the website is kind of hard to navigate?
     
  2. perhydrol

    perhydrol Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2014
    Messages:
    1,051
    Likes Received:
    561
    Can someone explain to me why Charles de Vilmorin is even there? I mean, has he even produced two full collections before being nominated? There are criteria that have to be met to be able to participate in the competition and being a nepo-designer is not one of them.
     
    RedSmokeRise, arabchic and jeanclaude like this.
  3. Urban Stylin

    Urban Stylin ɐʎ ʎǝɥ

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    Messages:
    18,309
    Likes Received:
    935

    Vogue summed it up

    "The 24-year-old’s appointment is partly down to his provenance—his great-aunt Louise de Vilmorin was an heiress and a femme des lettres friendly with Hélène Rochas, the wife of couturier Marcel Rochas—and partly down to the joie de vivre of his colorful aesthetic. De Vilmorin’s debut collection of quilted jackets conjured Niki de Saint Phalle’s famous Nana sculptures, and last month, he presented his first haute couture collection at the invitation of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in the same exuberant vein. It probably hasn’t hurt that he looks a lot like the youthful Yves Saint Laurent"
     
  4. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2014
    Messages:
    41,521
    Likes Received:
    18,203
    ^He won't win anyway, lol. I mean, thankfully there are enough London designers to choose from the lineup, should they wish to go in that direction. Which I don't think they will.

    Why do most of it look like such a rip-off? Craig Green, Kane, Matty Bovan, Iceberg, Simone Rocha. And the fact that they got selected is even more worrying.

    There are some really awful verging on vulgar collections I'm seeing here. Rui immediately comes to mind. And the guy from South Korea must've been selected on of his passport only because the actual work is unimaginative to the max. Plus....in the eternal words of Pam Boy, one of our greatest thinkers in modern fashion, 'streetwear is dead', lol.

    I'll place my bet firmly on Shuting Qiu from China. Her collections look like the type of stuff LVMH thinks is 'creative'. And I like what I'm seeing. Connor Ives looks great as well, and I'd personally like to wear Saul Nash.

    Pity Lukhanyo's work also looks good, I like the play with colour and texture. But I doubt they'd give the prize to a South African winner three times in a row.

    Not just you, it's so annoyingly un-UX friendly! Perfect example of design and flashiness being prioritised over functionality. You can tell whoever designed the website isn't a fashion person. Must be some recluse IT nerd who think we'd be obsessed with it. Fashion people are famously NOT good with tech in any shape or form. LOL.
     
    bc collector and perhydrol like this.
  5. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2014
    Messages:
    6,991
    Likes Received:
    7,330
    I actually see a lot of design assistants or maybe some people (if well managed) who can take over as creative directors of brands but not a lot of Household worthy designers.

    Connor Ives is the most promising voice in the selection even if I think that the LVMH Prize is a good opportunity for non western designer to establish their name (particularly African designers because in Asia, there’s a lot of competition)

    But there’s a clear lack of identity in the talents. A lot of things are very reminiscent of recent, actually selling right now, fashion.

    In a way De Villemorin stand out, no matter how irrealistic his proposition is.
     
    bc collector, GERGIN and Benn98 like this.
  6. bc collector

    bc collector Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2006
    Messages:
    336
    Likes Received:
    777
    My first impression from the line-up was one of over-representiveness of black designers: the suits are obviously scared shitless of not being in tune with the woke zeitgeist, at the cost of putting there designers whose skills are a bit sub-standard (like Lagos Space Programme), even considering they are starting out.

    If I have to choose one from the list, for me it's Nensi Dojaka. I think her work is very distinctive and, somehow, wearable, it does not stink too much of graduate collection like most of the others. Whether she wins or not, I hope she will get enough attention to be able to build something solid from here.

    As for the De Villemorin, regardless of the supposed nepotism behind his career boost, he should just pay royalties to Kansai Yamamoto and shut up.
     
  7. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2014
    Messages:
    41,521
    Likes Received:
    18,203
    If not Shuting, then another Chinese designer will win. Has to. Think of it as a gesture from LVMH to China for their continued support. Jing Daily, which is like the party-approved mouthpiece of the fashion industry, has been making a lot of noise last season about their native Chinese designers - where they show, how much they make, what opportunities are open to them. I imagine very soon they'll just openly demand that a Chinese winner be crowned just like they've shunned all the brands who didn't cast Chinese models, because they have LVMH over a barrel. And if you ask me, there'd be nothing wrong with that. At least not if the most creative one was selected. Subjective, I know.
     
    Lola701 and JohannesL like this.
  8. bc collector

    bc collector Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2006
    Messages:
    336
    Likes Received:
    777
    ^^^ In fact, Idk the actual winner matters as much as at least being selected as a finalist. If the winner position is subject to that kind of politics, I guess the market will decide who the real winner is (does anyone remember who Thomas Tait is, to name one?). Think about Matthew Williams who was in the line-up barely five years ago....
     
    Benn98 likes this.
  9. THD96

    THD96 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2020
    Messages:
    538
    Likes Received:
    1,267
    I like a few of them like Federico Coma and Renaissance Renaissance and CDV (in the context of this competition. The rest is okay or IG aesthetic forgettable.

    I don't understand why CJR and CDV need to join this prize tho. As CJR does he need more money for his brand. He already have the social media on his side and he have a lot of connection in the industry (freelancer designer like him score a Vogue UK cover is not easy). Comparing to the rest of the contestants CDV already at "the finish line". As he already have well connection with important people in the industry, and he already at a storied house. So with or without this prize he doing just fine.
     
  10. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2014
    Messages:
    41,521
    Likes Received:
    18,203
    Interesting point! I actually don't recall all the winners and had to look. Whereas the Vogue/CFDA winners are very much on my radar mainly because they get consistent support - even years after they've won.
     
    fakeawake and bc collector like this.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"