Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[vogue28]

John Galliano is well and truly in a league of his own. Currently sat watching the live-stream in absolute awe and I'm not even the biggest Galliano stan but I am able to recognize the sheer brilliance of this level of work. The storytelling, the sense of drama, the fantasy, the artistry, the execution... so unbelievably insane.

 

[tourbillions]

Hopefully all the ideas presented here will be translated into a smart boutique collection.

i dont think we will see half of this anywhere unless they are used in their window displays, maybe some parts of it as the clients want. or maybe if this will serve as an introduction to his next rtw collections' propositions.

 

[nonfatgoddess]

Wow... that was dramatic lol

I honestly quite enjoyed it! The location, the theatrics and all. Didn't realise it was Gwendoline who closed the show.

But then again, It didn't feel Margiela at all. Would've made more sense if it was Galliano's own label.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I appreciate the period he's referencing because I've been really feeling it lately, but the way he executed it is like so on the nose I think I'm kinda over it. Just like the guy who sang in the beginning that has his PR working overtime to be all over the fashion scene, that Parisian narcissistic femme sex addict gay is taking over everything. And I don't mean being a gay femme sex addict is bad lol, it's just like... why make a show mirroring exactly that? No more leading or shaping your own ideas? Putting out stuff that you know is gonna get validated immediately and eaten up at the most basic level? I feel like he used to be a little more daring. Cmon man. And having Kim K and Kylie arrived late af and Gwendoline closing the show... really was the cherry on top of losing the Margiela of it all

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

Dusty BBL Couture? Kind of glorious!

Despite the fact that this has NOTHING, ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with Margiela, it was a fabulous Galliano collection.

In a way what was lacking in terms of modernity of aesthetic was found in the modernity of treatment of fabrics…But then again at Dior, he had a forward thinking approach to fabrics and shapes in the early 00’s.

The show was for me really an homage to Westwood with all the faux-culs, the cocotte allure, the destroy feeling.

The dressmaking was outstanding and I think clients are going to fall for it heavily! Those dresses without the bodysuits would look fabulous on some women.

I love Margiela RTW actually so I can’t wait to see how this will be translated in March. The menswear was really strong too!

It was a lesson in Couture from a Couturier with a real POV. The bittersweet part about it is that Martin’s legacy seems totally lost in this. Does Galliano cares about Martin’s work?
It’s frustrating because what characterizes Margiela is the rupture from the past. There wasn’t a sense of nostalgia in his work. I don’t like nostalgia in fashion and somehow, despite how great this collection is, so much about it was about a past I’m not interested in.

Having Kim and Kylie in the attendance seems quite fitting. I bet they won’t need those bodysuits to create the BBL effect.

 

[gallianostan]

I appreciate the period he's referencing because I've been really feeling it lately, but the way he executed it is like so on the nose I think I'm kinda over it. Just like the guy who sang in the beginning that has his PR working overtime to be all over the fashion scene, that Parisian narcissistic femme sex addict gay is taking over everything. And I don't mean being a gay femme sex addict is bad lol, it's just like... why make a show mirroring exactly that? No more leading or shaping your own ideas? Putting out stuff that you know is gonna get validated immediately and eaten up at the most basic level? I feel like he used to be a little more daring. Cmon man. And having Kim K and Kylie arrived late af and Gwendoline closing the show... really was the cherry on top of losing the Margiela of it all

this really is how i feel. i was hyped and this could've been spectacular conceptually but it wasn't executed with the same shrewd, razor-sharp galliano panache that i love. and not to drag myself but the excessive queerness of the mise en scène massively turned me the f*ck off lol

 

[tourbillions]

i wasnt always a fan of his margiela as i thought it was always very "what would margiela do" so it looked half ***. The margiela clients of today are ready and looking forward to something like this. Unfortunately, I doubt their clients now know how the original brand was like anymore. From a business pov, i think this is the right direction. And I'm sure many brands of today are nothing like the original anymore.

 

[perhydrol]

I think it was an extremely interesting collection in the context of Margiela's heritage because there are some Martin's codes, they're just deeply hidden and I guess we need to dissect the looks to actually appreciate them. At least we don't get another Galliano at Dior kind of situation with exploring the same tropes all over again. That said, I still feel quite conflicted because the performance was wonderful and the clothes themselves are to die for, it feels almost too nostalgic, as if the show had been designed circa 2007. However, I must say enjoyed every single bit of it and I just hope John is happy with the final outcome.

 

[gallianostan]

juan carlos you are a genius and the fashion love of my life but upon reflection and a second viewing this was not your best work!

 

[GoldenPetals]

Daaaamn. Galliano is truly back in business.

It's DISTINCTLY Galliano, but with that gritty Margiela touch. I do think he could've leaned more into deconstruction, but it's wonderful regardless.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Also, is that BRIENNE OF TARTH?

 

[GoldenPetals]

It's giving Les Miserables.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Extremely dated and grotesque.

This looked a burlesque cabaret representation...not like a fashion show. I almost expected a burlesque moment with a model twisting tassels with a her breast as the streaming went on.

This has NOTHING to do with Martin Margiela. Those exaggerated hips, the pubic hair, the breast plates gave even a Drag Race vibe.

 

[donyan]

this is a fabulous Galliano collection but to me it feels completely irrelevant in 2024. A lot of it is beautiful and looks incredibly well made but there’s a whiff of sadness and melancholy that is unappealing. I long for Margiela’s humour and sharp modernity, for something new and exciting, something that I want to wear. This is theatre, beautifully executed costumes.

 

[GoldenPetals]

I'm in love with the men's pants with the leather (I think?) bottom. How on earth is it done so flawlessly?!

 

[gallianostan]

yeah there is a real grotesque quality to some of the proportions; the extreme corseting, the models that were used, the hip padding, and breastplates, etc... it's not that typical galliano hourglass shape; it's perverse and unsettling in a way that's less desirable? there's also just a dearth of modernity here. john is adept at taking historical dress and giving it a second lease of life, imbuing a coat or a dress with a modern touch - be it the cut, drape or styling. and even when his most radical clothes weren't outwardly modern per se (hc ss03) they were still extraordinary experimentations in volume and proportion. but these clothes don't feel modern or particularly new at all, or experimental in cutting. some of the passages do border on costume. i'm so conflicted with this one

 

[Deleted member 141309]

There are some hints of Maison Margiela 1996 and a sprinkle of Maison Margiela Fall 2006, but ramped up to 1000% and with a lot of Galliano (lots of techniques from Dior circa 2005), not sure why a lot of people need in-your-face Margiela to accept this.

That said, the live singing was annoying (was the guy there just because he has 'cool' vibes and is an amputee?), the theatrics was very passé too, it is not 2007 anymore.

The clothes were an amazing spectacle, not sure if this is wearable or innovative, but definitely referential and skillful. What I feel is lacking is even more shock/innovation value for it to be truly great or dialling it down to be more modern and wearable. It does not hit either, so it is... Nice, but kind of what is the purpose at all?

 

[Lola701]

There are some hints of Maison Margiela 1996 and a sprinkle of Maison Margiela Fall 2006, but ramped up to 1000% and with a lot of Galliano (lots of techniques from Dior circa 2005), not sure why a lot of people need in-your-face Margiela to accept this.

Maybe because a lot of those « hidden » Margiela sprinkles are elements John already did at his peak of glorious destruction at Dior.

It’s like saying that what the Marni guy is doing can be labeled as Marni because he is using colors.

I don’t know if John is too nostalgic or too wrapped up in his world to deliver those collections.

I think it’s sad because you have people like Demna claiming an Heritage they can’t live up to and you have a genius like John, totally capable of creating something as great as what Margiela did but who is missing the opportunity.
And Margiela’s heritage is multi-layered but above all, his vision of women while dramatic, was never comical.