Maison Margiela F/W 2020.21 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

With Galliano, Artisanal is the Eau de Parfum and RTW is supposed to be the Eau De Toilette.
This feels very Eau de Parfum for me...O don’t get why the RTW less accessible than the Couture.
This for me is a step back from the progress he has made with his Couture.

I hate to see it because it’s John but this for me is quite forgettable...Despite all the amazing techniques. I don’t know why a genius like him lock himself in this type of offering.

Nice trench-coats tho.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Beautiful outerwear -take some notes Chitose- but that's it. Honestly, I'm afraid this is something to expect. It's the translation from his glorious Couture to RTW but without the charm and the freshness we got a month ago.
I mean, looking at the looks I was like: Oh, we've seen this before.

 

[Benn98]

This feels very Eau de Parfum for me...O don’t get why the RTW less accessible than the Couture.

My very first thought when I saw this was how impressive it is that someone isn't creatively shackled to Margiela's recent push into the more commercial realm. That he's keeping his collections as progressive as possible is impressive in itself. I'm still mad of the silhouette with the first half of the collection, and I want those sheer looks to be endlessly editorialised. But not sure what to make of the 2nd half.

 

[reese06]

Does this stuff make it in to production and in stores?

I just never see it when I'm in the stores but I'm also not looking for it.

 

[dfl-001]

Goat toe shoes are not going to be a thing. The entire collection looks like a throw out. I feel like this was sent down the runway so someone backstage could laugh at our reactions.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Hmm...a step back...even if it’s almost practically the RTW version of the last Couture, which was excellent.

I think he needs to let the RTW breathe and become a bit easier. Let Couture be the place for wild imagination and experimentation. I think it’s time the RTW come down to earth.

I’m always reminded of John’s Fall 2005 Couture collection and subsequent Spring 2006 RTW for Dior as the most perfect example of Couture generating the ideas (in that case the nude and black lace) which then spun out into a million, fabulous and wearable variations on the RTW catwalk.

This, like I first mentioned, just looks like the producible version of the Couture, and not a stand-alone expansion in and of itself.

 

[Lola701]

Hmm...a step back...even if it’s almost practically the RTW version of the last Couture, which was excellent.

I think he needs to let the RTW breathe and become a bit easier. Let Couture be the place for wild imagination and experimentation. I think it’s time the RTW come down to earth.

I’m always reminded of John’s Fall 2005 Couture collection and subsequent Spring 2006 RTW for Dior as the most perfect example of Couture generating the ideas (in that case the nude and black lace) which then spun out into a million, fabulous and wearable variations on the RTW catwalk.

This, like I first mentioned, just looks like the producible version of the Couture, and not a stand-alone expansion in and of itself.

But the problem is that a collection like SS2006 is the result of Bernard Arnault asking John to be more reasonable after the debacle of FW2004, a collection that was barely produced (How are you going to diffuse something that was supposed to be a diffusion? In that case FW04 was the RTW version of the Egyptian Couture as you know).
I don’t think Rosso will go to Galliano and tell him to stop the madness.

I find it extremely dated to not sell what you present on the runway. People want and are craving for runway pieces. They are missing an opportunity.
Are tabi boots the only shoes available in the archives?

 

[Nomar]

Always a highlight of fashion week for me and I'll never get tired of Galliano's madness.

 

[Nymphaea]

Lost interest, can't solve the puzzle.

 

[Scouting Snapper]

Not his best offering ,but i still like it ....John Galliano is so talented (I know this is a prestigious house ,but i wish he was at a "Bigger" label, the details & craftsmanship are crazy amazing like always & he makes the best coats ever...Also i spot Reebok trainers on a few models (i'm a sneaker-head lol )

 

[Uemarasan]

Do goats even have toes? Not to be pedantic about it lol. Anyway, I think tabi footwear was done much more tastefully in past Margiela collections. Here the look comes across as rather contrived.

I will always appreciate the madness that Galliano brings to the runway, but I agree with others here. At the moment Galliano’s couture for Margiela is so strong that the RTW seems overly diluted by comparison. The same often happened during his days at Dior though, so maybe it’s something that’s simply inescapable. However, I will say that Margiela RTW is consistenly much stronger than Galliano’s Dior RTW.

If only Galliano would treat his RTW as something separate from and not beholden to his couture, then I think the collections can only end up stronger.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Olivier Rizzo must be having the time of his life styling this show, there's more fashion in any given look in here than the whole of NYFW put together. It's crazy but crazy-chic.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Going through the detail shots on Vogue is a delight. There is so much good work that is executed flawlessly and with so much charm and ingenuity and pizzazz.

Problem is, when you zoom out, the whole effect isn’t quite as magical as it is up close.

 

[Avonlea]

I love Galliano but his work for Margiela is so boring. Everything is so sad. Where is the fun, passion, wild creativity? Despite the complicated techniques, innovative fabric treatment, excessive layering everything falls flat.
His podcasts are horrible. The amount of bullsh*t is insane. I cant with the drunk mumbling

 

[CholoChic]

Galliano is very exquisite, as always, his work in Margiela found the perfect fusion, there are so very desirable pieces I would love wear.

 

[lauralynn025]

Love Galliano, but I’m really not a fan of this collection.
As someone else mentioned, his Couture is so much better than his RTW now!!