Maison Margiela S/S 2018 Paris

[Scotty]

nowfashion

 

[Scotty]

nowfashion.com

 

[dodencebt]

Looks like Galliano is continuing with the seams-only garments for the third season in a row. It's clear that he's not pushing himself creatively but it's also undeniable that there are some beautifully crafted pieces throughout this collection. So there's that.

 

[CholoChic]

This show fueled me in energy this morning Galliano has made so exquisite pieces from previous caos emerged delicated pieces, fun and and i just wanna discover the details where you can see his precious soul.

 

[vetements]

At this time, i am glas Galliano was fired from Dior. I never really liked his OTT at Dior, and had he stayed on, he may still continue to do all of that and more, so no.

But Margiela by Galliano exhibits how skilful a real designer is, clothes are so sharply cut, the clothes certainly lacks the nonchalance of Martin Margiela the man himself, but this is very good in it's own right.

Ps. And then we see what's happening at Dior....ink:

 

[jeanclaude]

I like parts of Galliano work for Margiela so far...but you can tell he is stuck in a trench-coat loop!

I don´t know how many times I´ve already seen a deconstructed trench-coat in his collections. He is obsessed with it.

 

[perhydrol]

I hope this will never happen but I'm scared that he'll end up with the trench coat as a basis just like he did at Dior with the New Look silhouette. He has to move on but I don't think the direction of Teddy's look with literally everything thrown on her is a good one for Margiela. Perhaps it's the high time to think about clothes, their real construction and cut instead of making costumes.

 

[maxlinden]

I don't mind a trench every season, in the showroom these pieces flawless, true masters of design. I love what he's doing at Margiela and don't want that to change anytime soon.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Not good, not bad, not surprising. Just the continuation of the other themes we are used to see with his tenure.

Galliano is developing his vernacular at Margiela, yes, and I don't mind it. I just wish he would explore new directions with his motherf*cking couture skills.

 

[AnaD]

I'm sure this is breathtaking in construction and detailing, but I low key hate this. Maybe because every looks seems piled on rather than styled, but I find it very ugly.

 

[mistress_f]

i've got this weird thing with john's margiela... at first look, all of his rtw collections make me go 'oh, ok'
but then i look at the details and i'm in awe! It really needs some time to be properly looked at. I love it. Case in point:








vogue.com theimpression.com

 

[Fashionstuff]

I simply love Galliano's Margiela.

 

[Nomar]

Always one of the most interesting collections each season! His work at Margiela is always creative, fascinating and unique, it's really a joy to look at.

 

[reese06]

It's beautiful but he feels a bit stuck.

I need him to do something else at this point as it's all beginning to kind of run together.

 

[Lola701]

I feel like i'm more excited about his clothes in the stores than in the show. The presentation, the styling and the venue is just a total NO for me, as usual. It's just dry and souless...

It's a pity because those clothes are really clever, fun but with a lot of depth.

 

[Scotty]

I feel like i'm more excited about his clothes in the stores than in the show. The presentation, the styling and the venue is just a total NO for me, as usual. It's just dry and souless...

It's a pity because those clothes are really clever, fun but with a lot of depth.

Totally agreed. Maybe because it's for Margiela. I wish he'd go back to his own brand.

 

[Lola701]

^^
That would be the ultimate dream as this Margiela stint has gave him a new creative energy. In a way, he has erased the nostalgia of the past at Margiela and that was very present in his work at his own brand.

I think that Rosso should by the brand back from Dior and do a total relaunch. They never made money out of it but they have to continue because of all those licenses.

I would really love for John to have his brand back.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I would love for John to have his own line back, for sure - especially if Rosso were to buy it back for him. Totally agree.

In the meantime, I think John IS doing great work here at Margiela and it's clear that he really has a renewed sense of play, energy, curiosity and earnestness. You can tell he's very focused and engaged in the work. It's fantastic.

As Lola mentioned, however, it's a shame that he's still so committed to the outrageous kitchen sink styling, hair and makeup and the rather clinical presentation. Because - as you mentioned - the clothes in and of themselves are actually so strong, clever, innovative and unique. In stores, these clothes don't read as any other designer - there is a recognizable hand in the pieces that separate themselves distinctively from all the other designers on the luxury market. They really don't feel corporate. They do feel like they've been concocted in some kind of laboratory. It's very interesting.

With all that said, I wish John would let the clothes speak for themselves a bit more on the catwalk, because of their quality. Everything from the more complicated pieces to the simplest of pieces feel fresh. I mean...that buttery, creamy leather sand colored pea coat?! Who wouldn't die for that piece?! And not surprisingly, it's the standout piece for me of the collection probably because it's one of the simplest looks on the catwalk. It's fantastic.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Ok, all this is beautiful, I liked (look 13, 17 and 20 are my favorites, and the boots, man, the boots!), but my problem with Margiela by Galliano is that too Margiela. I mean, whats the point of having Galliano as creative director if he doesn't/can breaking any rule? I miss that rebel thing from Galliano. I wonder if he is not trying to show us that he can follow the rules and maybe get a major job in another house. This work feels very like a redemption job for me.

JG x MM deal works so much more for MM and who is loosing in this this story: us.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Ok, all this is beautiful, I liked (look 13, 17 and 20 are my favorites, and the boots, man, the boots!), but my problem with Margiela by Galliano is that too Margiela. I mean, whats the point of having Galliano as creative director if he doesn't/can breaking any rule? I miss that rebel thing from Galliano. I wonder if he is not trying to show us that he can follow the rules and maybe get a major job in another house. This work feels very like a redemption job for me.

JG x MM deal works so much more for MM and who is loosing in this this story: us.

His couture collections are very Galliano.