Maison Margiela S/S 2019 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

I know it’s an unpopular opinion but i’m so ready for John to leave Margiela...
I love John, i’ve tried and I totally understand the value of a Couturier at Margiela. He has the cut and the culture... but It just doesn’t work.

It’s good because it’s John and he is pushing himself but I really don’t see the progression behind it.

Maybe he can relaunch Lanvin I don’t know. I want to see him create but not a Margiela.

 

[dodencebt]

The styling is much more pared down this time which really gives me the ability to appreciate separate pieces from images and also helps John's vision in my opinion.

I absolutely love how he translated all the ideas from couture for both men and women and merged them into a single, wearable collection here. I find the 'pants as capes' ideas very captivating, the tailoring is exquisite and that almost paper-like pastel pink trench coat is fabulous. I must say I adore the shrunken suit worn with a gold corset from Look 27, it made me smile and if I had the money I'd buy the whole outfit in a heartbeat (and wear it nowhere, but that's definitely not the point).

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Never been a fan of Margiela x Galliano and I would never because it is always the same thing with the quirky pose from the models, weird styling. I don't think he is someone good at recycling ideas. He is the master of theatrics, of opulence and drama.

 

[Perickles]

It looks like Rick Owens. I love John Galliano but that grey color is annoying. I love the black outfits.

 

[jeanclaude]

Galliano is really obsessed with trench-coats, each collection he has designed for Margiela has at least one deconstructed trench-coat...it feels very OCD!!

And yes, I agree with Lola...Galliano at Lanvin would be a perfect fit. His strong point has always been playing with the past, distorting it and remixing it; and Lanvin archives are perfect for that!

 

[Benn98]

While I still think this collection is superb when judged without the historical context or codes of Margiela, I will agree that it is time for him to move on now. The issue is not so much him, but Margiela's vocabulary which is imo too limited for a man of his capabilities. With Dior he could explore polar opposites at any point. It's actually somewhat ironic that the cloud of creative stifle seems far more apparent at Margiela than at Dior.

Anyway, I still like the cuts in most of the pieces here. How he plays with structure and colour. The elaborate ruched tops paired with simple trousers is proof that Galliano don't need to stand aside to a Jil Sander or Armani. I'd have loved to see that explored a bit more. My main qualm with this offering is that it overlaps too much with Artisanal.

My dream which will probably never ever be realised.......Galliano at Burberry.

 

[Lola701]

My dream which will probably never ever be realised.......Galliano at Burberry.

Trench-coat fest!
I'm sure he is not against the idea....

Call me crazy but why not Galliano at McQueen?

 

[Benn98]

Trench-coat fest!
I'm sure he is not against the idea....

Call me crazy but why not Galliano at McQueen?

Maybe not, hey? I mean, it's not like he fixated on 101 variations of the Bar suit at Dior just like you know who.
Yes to McQueen!! My God, million times over. Can't abide Sarah Burton's McQueen. That brand could certainly do with something, anything authentically outre just for a change. And I'm not talking about middle-class takes on goth culture.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Let Karl alone! ahahaha
But talking about bar suit, John was actually fixated on 1 wa to do his bar jacket...
Chanel is a little bit different tho as the suit is their best-seller and was for years their only piece synonymous with daywear.
Galliano was at his best when he went mad (Fw 2004 rtw, FW2002 couture...heaven!)

At least at McQueen, they will have what they lack: a virtuose of cut with a defined vision and a real couture sensibility.
And it will be a great way for Kering to put the brand on another level...And i know that there are some couture clients that will be thrilled to by a McQueen by Galliano dress.

 

[Nymphaea]

Yes, John at Maison Margiela isn't coming to fruition. I yearn for him to go back like he designed at Dior, with a few boundaries but with a lot more freedom than at Maison Margiela. His geniusness isn't showing enough here.

 

[dior_couture1245]

The overall effect isn’t my favorite of his collections here...but looking through detail shots is really quite an inspiring exercise. So many beautiful, clever, perfectly executed details. Everything works do much better when you bring out the microscope here. Not sure why, when you pull back, that magic dissipates.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

I like it

He should had left 4 seasons ago. Like @Benn98 said, this house is too small for someone like him. However, since we are here, this collection is one of the best that he delivered. Its so confident and weird, this is the type the clothes I like to see and wear. I don't mind Trench-coat obsession, Im came for this TBH. I think this a matter of taste at end of the day.

 

[jeanclaude]

Call me crazy but why not Galliano at McQueen?

That sounds like a storm of creativity!! If only execs could think about such a great idea like this...