Maison Margiela S/S 2024 Paris

[fruitbasedsnack]

Wonderful.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Here's the show notes

source: Maison Margiela

 

[LadyJunon]

Here's the show notes

source: Maison Margiela

Another addition to Bliss Foster's figurative spank-bank.
Yay...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I'm sorry, but "the cowing of a pocket"? I get what they mean, it just sounds stupid when you try to legitimate with this kind of writing.

It's the kind of thing fashion lecturers from CSM or Antwerp yearn for from their students, but it all comes across as silly when taken out of the echo-chamber.

 

[Constructionist]

Here's the show notes

source: Maison Margiela

I'm guessing writers, literature teachers and literature students are the target demographic for Margiela.

A bunch of self fellating ten dollar words.

 

[HazJW]

I think this is pretty easy to understand and doesn't seem pretentious at all, you all sound like the kind of of rednecks who say stuff like 'I hate fashion!! Pair o'jeans'll do me!! Fashion designers must be mad, nobody would ever wear any of that!!!11!!!!!!!!' when shown a single photograph of a slip dress.

[Disclaimer: this is tongue-in-cheek]

 

[90sFan]

Galliano is bff with anna wintour - dinosaurs, old fashioned and tired

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Actually... this is starting to grate on me similarly to Prada in way that the whole point of this is just to look at on tiktok and to market to sell sneakers and sweatshirts and wallets... Yeah they may do one or two offs but like what the f*ck is the point of this if it's not for real. So tired of the brainless (I mean BRAIN - LESS) consumerist model. You can look at a presentation from Saint Laurent or Lemaire or even Chanel and KNOW that what you see is what you get. Here it's like those vids when a dog gets taunted with a delicious piece of cheese and then gets tricked by a having piece of broccoli shoved in it's mouth.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

And yes I am the dog with the intelligence of a 2 y/o human

 

[gallianostan]

Actually... this is starting to grate on me similarly to Prada in way that the whole point of this is just to look at on tiktok and to market to sell sneakers and sweatshirts and wallets... Yeah they may do one or two offs but like what the f*ck is the point of this if it's not for real. So tired of the brainless (I mean BRAIN - LESS) consumerist model. You can look at a presentation from Saint Laurent or Lemaire or even Chanel and KNOW that what you see is what you get. Here it's like those vids when a dog gets taunted with a delicious piece of cheese and then gets tricked by a having piece of broccoli shoved in it's mouth.

there's no production because there's no demand. normal people don't want to be dressed in deconstructed frock coats with the basting threads hanging off. surely this is all very self-evident lmao?

 

[Nimsay]

IDK the show notes appear to compliment the show perfectly. It really adds dimension to the pieces. John always comes up with these fantastic scenarios which then becomes a design language. Ill never like Tabi though. Maybe when Im 70+ and doing my recluse realness.

The more I look at this collection the more ravishing it becomes. The absolute mastery of tailor and flou is exquisite. Johns ability to make sculptural lightweight pieces is truly second to none. Thats his code - this collection features his most refined constructions ever.

 

[CholoChic]

there's no production because there's no demand. normal people don't want to be dressed in deconstructed frock coats with the basting threads hanging off. surely this is all very self-evident lmao?

Galliano always showed crazy unwereable artistic pieces on catwalk but in stores there are classic precious wereable items and in Internet there are other kind of pieces.

It has been always his way to make his art on catwalk and the classic pieces that all people like in stores.

Anyway that coats on catkalk are perfect!

 

[90sFan]

Galliano is so 19th century. Cant even…

 

[Drusilla_]

One of the best shows of the season, all the side stuff about show notes is entirely beside the point. Also, I thought we all were familiar with the idea of runway editorialising not always being translated literally to what ends up in the shops?

 

[Lola701]

Galliano always showed crazy unwereable artistic pieces on catwalk but in stores there are classic precious wereable items and in Internet there are other kind of pieces.

It has been always his way to make his art on catwalk and the classic pieces that all people like in stores.

Anyway that coats on catkalk are perfect!

And that’s for me the frustrating part of his work.
Tbh, we aren’t in 2004 anymore and I don’t have the same engagement with his work to dissect looks from the Catwalk.
I like his Margiela only because of the proposition in the stores which for me is close to Martin in spirit.
Beautiful pieces, deconstructed that stands on their own.
It’s funny because I enjoy watching all Galliano or Galliano for Dior shows. Part of that is nostalgia but also because it all came together quite beautifully.

His presentations for Margiela are so detached from the brand and what I expect from the brand, even under his direction, that I have no interest to look deep into it.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Noooo I know that clothes on the runway aren't always translated well into shops but the ideas on the runway feel so divorced from the merch they're selling. I kind of disagree with there's no demand. They're just trying to shift into a certain demographic. And even if the demand for that is lower than their merch, it disappoints me to see them be so relaxed about new ideas and just focusing on being a "luxury brand". Ever since they dumped all their time, energy, and money into the "icons" stuff I've gotten so bored of this. It's Margiela ... ... so sad to see them going from a place of always having a dialogue about how people dress and how they dress in certain spaces, proposing new ideas on how to carry yourself among a certain society, to now just having a spectacle ONCE a year to generate hype to sell gentle monster sunglasses, 1200 dollar inside out hem sweaters, luxury bags, and tabis galore. When Galliano first joined it was not like that. It wasn't really like that until after the pandemic.

 

[LadyJunon]

Noooo I know that clothes on the runway aren't always translated well into shops but the ideas on the runway feel so divorced from the merch they're selling. I kind of disagree with there's no demand. They're just trying to shift into a certain demographic. And even if the demand for that is lower than their merch, it disappoints me to see them be so relaxed about new ideas and just focusing on being a "luxury brand". Ever since they dumped all their time, energy, and money into the "icons" stuff I've gotten so bored of this. It's Margiela ... ... so sad to see them going from a place of always having a dialogue about how people dress and how they dress in certain spaces, proposing new ideas on how to carry yourself among a certain society, to now just having a spectacle ONCE a year to generate hype to sell gentle monster sunglasses, 1200 dollar inside out hem sweaters, luxury bags, and tabis galore. When Galliano first joined it was not like that. It wasn't really like that until after the pandemic.

The idea of creating a huge gap between runway and boutique has lead to the downfall of so many brands. Prada in the late 00s/10s is a perfect example of that with the runways and advertising presenting extremely eccentric maximalism, while the stores serve branded basics. Customers didn't buy the products, because what they saw didn't live to the promised imagery.

Margiela would function much better as a "lower luxury" house, selling a more balanced percentage of ready-to-wear and accessories. The Artisanal line can price itself higher.

 

[gallianostan]

Prada in the late 00s/10s is a perfect example of that with the runways and advertising presenting extremely eccentric maximalism, while the stores serve branded basics. Customers didn't buy the products, because what they saw didn't live to the promised imagery.

especially when the ostensibly 'accessible' ready-to-wear lines of many brands are priced in excess of £10K. jackets for £20k. ridiculous, unsustainable, and out of touch.

 

[Drusilla_]

The idea of creating a huge gap between runway and boutique has lead to the downfall of so many brands. Prada in the late 00s/10s is a perfect example of that with the runways and advertising presenting extremely eccentric maximalism, while the stores serve branded basics. Customers didn't buy the products, because what they saw didn't live to the promised imagery.

Margiela would function much better as a "lower luxury" house, selling a more balanced percentage of ready-to-wear and accessories. The Artisanal line can price itself higher.

Isn't that effectively what it's doing now with MM6 and the Tabis going practically mainstream?

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I just realized I think THIS is the rtw collection that corresponds to the couture show that was under the bridge. There are a few new garments that match. Usually they’d show the couture first to inspire people for the rtw but I guess because of the logistics of showing couture they did it reverse to not postpone rtw and be out of the conversation any further.