Marc by Marc Jacobs Resort 2015

[marcBarna]

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s fall debut for Marc by Marc Jacobs — which remains the name of the collection; MBMJ is just a logo — was an impactful delineation of who the Marc by Marc girl is: fierce and in-your-face. But she’s feminine, too, a side they drew out for resort with dual references centered around space. First was Brit Marling, whom Bartley described as “tough and confident but with a floaty otherworldy-ness” in the film “Another Earth;” second was Mercury 13, a group of 13 American women trained as astronauts in the late Sixties, though they never went to space, leaving Bartley wondering if “they had to go back to the kitchen?”

To show the strong side of classic womanly shapes, Fifties floral dresses with flared skirts came with jarring black suspenders and harness effects. There were cool, cleaner variations on the silhouette in nylon and cotton with military details. More crisp and spare was the range of tailored shirting, some done with outer-space motifs by illustrator Zoe Taylor that were subtle and ethereal “so it’s not like you’re wearing planets,” as Bartley said. Taylor’s illustrations, as well as a “Don’t Panic” graphics by Fergus Purcell of Palace Skateboards, stood out on totes and mini bags in the ever-growing range of handbags.

wwd

 

[Thefrenchy]

Hideously frumpy

 

[maxlinden]

The new york press girl will eat this up

 

[Deleted member 7575]

The new york press girl will eat this up

I give that girl more credit than you do. These clothes are miserable. Not sure how long this new MBMJ is going to last...

 

[xsquared]

I really like this, and luella's mbmj so far. its definitely more relevant than it was before her arrival, and its playful in a different way. its not so sweet!

 

[kab348]

Really bad

 

[malaychic]

The pieces if to be worn as separate would have been nice. Styling might be a bit off though.

 

[Emmanuelle]

That is not what I would wear, even if I find the yellow and blue dress and the last look pretty cool.

 

[CATO]

this blue industrial-protective-clothing-overall

 

[IZ uS]

It's good. Different. forward thinking.

 

[gossiping]

i have a feeling i'm never going to like this new direction

 

[pen6693]

That flower dress is the only MBMJ I see, the rest looks unflattering.

 

[marcBarna]

Full Collection



style.com

 

[marcBarna]

style.com

 

[marcBarna]

JUNE 01, 2014
NEW YORK
By Nicole Phelps

Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier earned major buzz for their Fall debut at Marc by Marc Jacobs. The Brits instantly revitalized the diffusion line, sharpening its point of view and upping its fashion quotient. Their new clothes haven't landed in stores yet, but we're predicting a run on the BMX-style graphics.

At first glance, it appears as if Bartley and Hillier have dialed back a bit on the "girl power" vibes for Resort. Bright abstract florals have taken the place of Fall's slogan graphics, and they used them for fifties-style fit-and-flare dresses. But look closer and there's still a fair bit of subversion going on. Those dresses are accessorized with elasticized webbing. Bondage attire? Parachute gear? A little of both, it turns out. Bartley explained she was looking at the Mercury 13 group of women who were trained to become astronauts only to have the program cancelled. "They were competent women who were put back into the kitchen," she editorialized, going on to say the "character is really important; having a story gives [the MBMJ girl] depth."

True enough, but it won't require a backstory to sell pieces like this season's canvas utility separates (note the pleats on the baggy trousers) or basics like button-downs that have been patchworked with prints by the illustrator Zoë Taylor, which, come to think of it, renders them not so basic after all. And back to the slogan graphics for a moment: Bartley and Hillier didn't reject them entirely for Resort. The "DON'T PANIC" sweaters are destined to be hits.

style.com

 

[Moofins]

At first glance I thought this was a recent collection from Rodarte.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

There's definitely a refreshing feeling with this collection as a whole although I don't think the individual pieces are compelling at all. The most covetable item looks like those field pocket shirt jackets, but otherwise a lot of these pieces seem confused, directionless, and poorly designed. Hastily designed probably.

This doesn't look so good and I heard that their fall redux was a HUGE failure with retailers. The label had already been flailing for awhile now and apparently the business has dropped even further. This resort outing doesn't bode well. The new MBMJ is turning out to be a disaster. I wonder if hiring a kitschy bag designer and a mediocre/passe cool girl designer wasn't the best decision.

 

[Psylocke]

WWD should just stop releasing those bad previews for pre-collections, they have never managed to make anything look good, ever. I thought this looked utterly hideous in the previews. But seeing the better shots now, I have to say some of it is pretty cool. Sure, it's gimmicky and some of it is poorly designed, but I like some of the ideas. I like the shirts... and the galaxy prints I don't think it's a bad collection.