Marc Jacobs S/S 2022 New York

[vogue28]

I-D.VICE.COM

 

[perhydrol]

Frankly speaking, I don't know if this collection has any purpose. It looks as if created out of rejected looks from his previous showing, just in different fabrics. Unfortunately, to me this doesn't scream "creativity" or "evolution", at this point it screams "we have serious financial problems".

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Even worse— it looks and feels like he got bored and just stopped after a handful of these filler designs. This all is so hollow. Marc is best when he remains dedicated and passionate about his preppy, WASP-American sensibilities with a proud perversity.

 

[MulletProof]

Marc is best when he remains dedicated and passionate about his preppy, WASP-American sensibilities with a proud perversity.

sniff, yeah, he really did some lovely collections for his marc by marc label.. and who could forget this?

He seemed to have a relatively healthy and relaxed approach to the industry.. now his personality, image and everything he touches just screams of insecurity and life crisis.. he’s become a cliché of an extra paranoid, ‘losing the plot’ creator in the late stage of his career.

 

[THD96]

I think it better for him just to sit out this season if he has nothing to show. I'm sure none of these clothes are going to make into production beside the monogram so what the point.

Mars has done grunge, edgy look before and better. This just looks like a Rick Owens leftovers with MJ logos.

With the logos heavy approach of the 2 recent collections, it's obvious that he needs to sell these clothes to make the suits happy. But presenting collection like this is not helping his company in anyway.

Marc needs to stop with his Instagram career, and focus on delivering a non gimmicks, straight forward collections circa 2011 then maybe he can save the company.

 

[Lola701]

It’s difficult with Marc Jacobs….
I want to like it but I can’t because I don’t see the purpose. It’s a bit like when Francesco Costa was at Calvin…It was frustrating.
His Calvin was for marketing purpose only and distributed in a very limited way (almost inexistent) but at least he proposed something that could have been relevant for people’s wardrobe/life or in terms of fashion conversation.

This is very now. It’s very well executed…Marc has always been a great curator or at least absorber of fashion.

It’s beautiful but so boring. It’s eye-catching but not desirable. It doesn’t add anything to the brand, to the fashion conversation or to Marc’s repertoire.

His main collection has downsized enough to be a bubble of creativity but I don’t want it to exist only in a bubble…

Frankly speaking, I don't know if this collection has any purpose. It looks as if created out of rejected looks from his previous showing, just in different fabrics. Unfortunately, to me this doesn't scream "creativity" or "evolution", at this point it screams "we have serious financial problems".

It’s ironic that you are talking about financial problems because they are doing good lately. The restructuration of the brand is working. Obviously, the mainline is not supporting the business and it’s clever in a way to integrate the logos in the mainline collection but it’s weird….

 

[MyNameIs]

I love the silhouettes.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

He seemed to have a relatively healthy and relaxed approach to the industry.. now his personality, image and everything he touches just screams of insecurity and life crisis.. he’s become a cliché of an extra paranoid, ‘losing the plot’ creator in the late stage of his career.

This. I haven't looked in a while but his instagram was so cringe. With the bob haircut and wearing grillz. Always announcing he's wearing Prada and in those Rick Owens platform boots. He gives off midlife crisis pickme vibes. Which is weird because he's Marc Jacobs? He doesn't need to prove anything to anyone. Just go see a therapist and relax

 

[perhydrol]

It’s ironic that you are talking about financial problems because they are doing good lately. The restructuration of the brand is working. Obviously, the mainline is not supporting the business and it’s clever in a way to integrate the logos in the mainline collection but it’s weird….

I think their strategy for the mainline is a rather confusing one and that's the reason why it communicates financial struggle. I mean, skipping seasons and then showing ten looks presented as a lookbook is not the most optimistic scenario for any established designer, even if their commercial lines are gaining momentum.

 

[dior_couture1245]

This is the kind of collection that does him no favors right now. This feels far too Rick Owens-y. Marc's brand isn't on sure enough footing at the moment to be so chaotic...when he was on top, it was thrilling to watch him switch it up season after season...but at this moment for him...I don't feel like it's wise to create so much confusion.

It's really a shame things turned out the way they did in the world, because his Fall 2020 collection was one of his greatest, and it got so derailed by world events. He clearly hasn't figured out what to do with his collection since that moment, unfortunately, and this isn't it.

It obviously echos, in a way, back to his more memorable Fall 2016 collection, but this doesn't have the same potency or relevancy as that collection did then. Like others are saying here - what does this say about anything? I'm not getting a story, I'm not getting a proposition, I'm not getting a spark...I'm just getting a sort of limp "mood." Ok...we have enough of that these days. Marc is smarter and can do better. His strength has always been the ability to propose a very fashion look that never feels too far disconnected from real life plausibility.

I can say I do sort of love the black cargo skirt, and could have seen a collection built around that...I can picture it with maybe a men's oxford shirt, sleeves rolled up past the elbows, styled with some opera gloves...giving it a kind of Edwardian mutton-sleeve, Gilded Age silhouette....oh, well...I digress....what difference does it make.

 

[Frederic01]

Marc is best when he remains dedicated and passionate about his preppy, WASP-American sensibilities with a proud perversity.

Agreed! His has diverted from the origins of the brand to the point where currently it is unrecognisable. The "Marc Jacobs aesthetic" to me was always about classic Americana and the subversion of those codes. It also felt very New York in a way that was old world and charming and effortlessly cool.

This collection looks like London-Gareth Pugh circa 2007. It's shockingly off-brand for Marc.

On a side note, it is such a coincidence, but IMO the best Marc Jacobs collections were done during the time he was also creative director of Louis Vuitton. That period of Marc Jacobs was his peak and I often wonder why? It's like the energy of Paris propelled the ideas of his namesake brand and enhanced his creativity.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Who is buying these clothes? Some of these are almost poking fun at the homeless. Maybe he should just stick to selling those tacky totes and camera bags, the only items that people actually buy.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I've always been somewhat confused as to what makes Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs. And this collection doesn't help.

It feels similar to the way in which Kawakubo currently feels about fashion, albeit in a higher sense of personal crisis on Jacob's part. Jacob's clearly can't peel himself away from fashion, so much of his recent work (for me) feels very desperate and clingy. He is the New York fashion darling to many people so that has left him in this strange 'ivory tower' predicament which probably doesn't help. I get he wants to start doing fashion on his own terms, but I don't even think he knows what those terms are.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

All this fabric to sell “THE TOTE BAG”. Tragic.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

I've always been somewhat confused as to what makes Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs. And this collection doesn't help.

It feels similar to the way in which Kawakubo currently feels about fashion, albeit in a higher sense of personal crisis on Jacob's part. Jacob's clearly can't peel himself away from fashion, so much of his recent work (for me) feels very desperate and clingy. He is the New York fashion darling to many people so that has left him in this strange 'ivory tower' predicament which probably doesn't help. I get he wants to start doing fashion on his own terms, but I don't even think he knows what those terms are.

I can understand your level of confusion on what makes Marc so special. I think @Phuel put it best above. He truly capitalized on what I like to call “metro prep”. Beautiful daywear, a very nice and realistic cut, a great accessories line, and a price point that did not break the bank, these all contributed to his meteoric rise. When he went to LV is when he really arrived. He was able to- with great financial backing- experiment with aesthetic and build upon his “trendy downtown girl” look even more, yet with a much needed infusion of luxury that was aloof during his earlier years.

Marc by Marc Jacobs to me at least played a huge part in making him a household name. I still have a couple of pieces from that diffusion line and it gave me a real appreciation for his design team’s ability to translate a high level of design into reasonable priced apparel. And I am not alone in this thinking. Outside of the great financial recession in 2008, Marc had been blessed with a very optimistic and growing economic environment as well. Luxury sales started to boom and he was prized to cash in on a new consumer base flush with cash.

Add that all together- his focused vision, a fantastic business partner in Robert Duffy, and the relatively friendly economic environment that accompanied most of his career and you have a formula for success.

Timing is everything.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I can't even talk about Marc without getting sad, for real. You all know how much I despise fashion right now but I sincerely think that he didn't deserve to end like he did. At this point I just want him to be happy no matter what the hell is he doing with his brand.

 

[Lola701]

I've always been somewhat confused as to what makes Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs. And this collection doesn't help.

It feels similar to the way in which Kawakubo currently feels about fashion, albeit in a higher sense of personal crisis on Jacob's part. Jacob's clearly can't peel himself away from fashion, so much of his recent work (for me) feels very desperate and clingy. He is the New York fashion darling to many people so that has left him in this strange 'ivory tower' predicament which probably doesn't help. I get he wants to start doing fashion on his own terms, but I don't even think he knows what those terms are.

But I think what you are saying in terms of identity for Marc is maybe a concern at this point.
In terms of generation in American Fashion, his contemporaries are Rick Owens, Tom Ford, Thom Browne, Michael Kors (to some extend). They are from the generation post Calvin, Ralph Lauren…etc.

I think there are codes in MJ’s vocabulary. It’s American Sportswear, it’s the dots, the quirkiness, the play on preppy and a certain idea of a NYC bourgeoisie. When he was at Vuitton, I used to say that the MJ woman was a crazy bourgeoise and the LV woman was the eccentric one.

But Marc, more than clothes, has always represented a certain idea of cool. Culturally, he was always on the pulse of things. He was able to dress Sofia Coppola, Elisabeth Peyton and Lil Kim. He was a pioneer in that collaborations thing in our modern era.

With all of that unfortunately, I don’t think that he has connected with people on the level of his contemporaries. In a weird way, people consume Marc Jacobs like Michael Kors, but MJ has that cool aura that MK will never have. But compared to his contemporaries, he is the only one who doesn’t have an identifiable woman/man.

He had some incredible collections since he left Vuitton but unfortunately, it was just that. At Vuitton, he only designed the runway collection but there was such a machine behind to push it that it became a moment that translated into success.

I wonder if the Marc Jacobs woman exist still. For years, Sofia Coppola was like it living incarnation but Sofia has became more
of a Chanel woman for the past few years.

It seems like Marc is in an ivory tower. On the paper, I can respect that idea of creativity. I think that the collection will be distributed only in his NYC store or at Bergdorf… But give us some new ideas at least.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I thought there was a new strategy in place at Marc Jacobs to fold all the lines into one large collection, in the aim to make it more marketable? What happened there?

To me, this feels very much like a collection made out of retirement - When Olivier Theyskens would still make bespoke wedding dresses in the interim between his stint at Theory and re-launching his brand, or more recently, when he made a collection out of confinement out of the scrapes of fabrics he would have had left in his studio.

With Marc Jacobs, I am very much questioning what the purpose is of creating a few editorial-friendly silhouettes like this. I feel this is too calculated not having to sell and just keeping him in the conversation. That notion mirrors the direction he has been taking, re-making himself as a social media personality, known for his audacious personal style rather than the director of a fashion brand under his name.

 

[Xone]

Why this collection is not on Vogue Runway app? The last was fw21…did he fight with Anna or something?…

 

[Lola701]

I thought there was a new strategy in place at Marc Jacobs to fold all the lines into one large collection, in the aim to make it more marketable? What happened there?

I mean we saw that it didn’t worked…Mostly because his currency in the luxury market is not at the same level as his contemporaries. The diffusion lines were the bread and butter of his brand.
But I think his business is more streamlined today. « The Marc Jacobs » is the commercial collection distributed in his stores and around the world. The snapshot bag is his new « Stam » and the Runway collection is produced in limited quantities. It’s more exclusive, more HF we would say.

Let’s face it. We aren’t in 2007 anymore and I don’t think woman would buy a 1500$ Marc Jacobs bag. But they would buy 500$ sunglasses.

But I think it was clever to put the logos of the runway collection in the main collection. But I hope they would not push it to saturation…