A return to nature was the theme at Marchesa Notte this season, mirroring the lush, three-dimensional florals on the runway at Marchesa proper just a few days ago. For Notte, also known as Marchesa’s “little sister” label, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig envisioned their girl strolling through London’s royal Kew Gardens—the largest collection of living plants in the world—and plucked inspiration from the butterflies, greenery, sunsets, and, of course, the gorgeous flowers.
The ethereal inspiration gave the designers an excuse to go all-out with embroideries and embellishments, from sheer tulle gowns covered in hand-stitched blooms to party dresses with full, draped skirts that looked like giant flower petals. New to the lineup were pops of metallics, like a carnation pink gown with streaks of gold, and a few slim, swishy column gowns with rows of fringe. Chapman and Craig could have done without the stretchy, body-conscious cocktail frocks, though; they didn’t feel particularly modern or elevated. The more successful dresses were the ones with a little less structure and a lot more charm.
