Marni S/S 2024 Paris

The most confusing runway presentation ever…
What was the point to show at Pozzo Di Borgo other than to say that they showed at Karl’s old place.

I wonder how, considering what is going on in Gabon, they have managed to secure the place…

Anyway, confusing collection. There are like 3 different collections fighting to exist on that very restrictive catwalk. I don’t know how the CDG lite relates to the skin tight and the seventies section but oh well…

‘I like the Car coats and the look on Joanna Preiss.
Marni has a better merchandising than collections anyway.
 
i found the show great to watch, never normally enjoy this show but this was a bit better. I love the dress on mona at the end, and some of the mini dresses with the boots and coats. the simple looks.
 
Thanks Francesco Risso for bringing some colors and raw intentions to Paris Fashion Week.

Beautiful "arte povera" vibe, great textures, fun accessories, quirky proportions.
 
Comme Des Garçons meets Bottega Veneta meets Eckhaus Latta. What is with this man's obsession with twinks in tiny shorts/skirts and long socks.
Seriously, say it louder. I never cared about manly men, or even gave men a thought while looking at womenswear shows, but thanks to this s*it now that's ALL I want to see! hairy, robust, cowboy/construction worker/farmer types, in denim and giant boots lol. One way to push people to opposite extremes. Also, what's up with the eyes. God, make this people go away. Just.. close Marni at this point.
 
Seriously, say it louder. I never cared about manly men, or even gave men a thought while looking at womenswear shows, but thanks to this s*it now that's ALL I want to see! hairy, robust, cowboy/construction worker/farmer types, in denim and giant boots lol. One way to push people to opposite extremes. Also, what's up with the eyes. God, make this people go away. Just.. close Marni at this point.
It doesn't help that they present it in the least attractive way possible (street casting, colourblind styling and bleach-fried hair). Hedi and Raf often used androgynous, sometimes feminine guys, but they always made it look cool and desirable.
 
^ pretty much every Belgian designer (from what I recall) built their look on androgyny.. and that was as far as my eye could see, I lived for that look at some point and still do, when done as a way to empower, to inspire confidence, not with this obnoxious, timid, :pleading: 'just me in a tiny little frilly dress and about to burst in tears' energy.. this brand of victimhood and fragility that suggests there's an executioner and all just to facilitate an aesthetic that resembles a parody.. it gets tiring. Not to say oddly sexist at times.
 
The most confusing runway presentation ever…
What was the point to show at Pozzo Di Borgo other than to say that they showed at Karl’s old place.

I wonder how, considering what is going on in Gabon, they have managed to secure the place…

Anyway, confusing collection. There are like 3 different collections fighting to exist on that very restrictive catwalk. I don’t know how the CDG lite relates to the skin tight and the seventies section but oh well…

‘I like the Car coats and the look on Joanna Preiss.
Marni has a better merchandising than collections anyway.

The collection is not confusing at all, it’s just vile, vile and vile from A to Z.
As for the Soyecourt location, Alexandre de Pozzo di Borgo has an event company and somehow convinced the state of Gabon to open the place last May. So it’s for rent. There will be a design fair too next week.
I agree Marni has no connection whatsoever with the place, its history or with Karl. It’s a very weird choice, just like showing at PFW. They should have stayed in Milan or NYC.
 
All the work Consuelo did to be undone by this fool in a couple minutes. This brand is going to broke if it keeps churning this sh*t out,
Unfortunately, that not the case. To quote a recent BoF article:
As demanding and eccentric as Risso’s work can seem, it is clearly connecting in the real world. Marni’s revenues jumped 29 percent in 2022.
Saying that, I don't see much of the runway collections in store (flagship or otherwise) other than the oversized knitwear and I don't see any it bags/shoes/accessories making waves either.
 
Such a tripolar collection. There are some gems in the gutter, but first you have to ditch the pretentious styling, cast and runway tricks

One of his best outings nevertheless - which is not saying much after the disasters in Miland.
He loves his eccentrics and plays the same card of the fashion misfit and rebel without a cause tirelessly, but also quite smart. Because he's unique in a sea of mediocrity nowadays.
 

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