Pricciao
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dazeddigital.com
Marques’Almeida rocks a 1990s look to tie-dye for at London Fashion Week
by Lauren Cochrane via theguardian.com
Marques’Almeida’s reputation as cool and approachable is established. The music on Tuesday underlined this theme, combining samples from obscure 90s teen documentary Wild Wood, NJ with Beyoncé’s Formation, arguably the song of the moment. The inspiration of Charles and Ray Eames – who were partners in life and work – felt apt. While the whimsical aesthetic of these mid-century interior design giants was nowhere to be seen, both duos gravitate towards innovative design that speaks to real life.
The clothes worn for the show were an eclectic mix. Inside a roomin London’s Olympia West, models – and friends – wore tie-dyed slip dresses with oversized gingham shirts underneath, huge sweatshirts and shearling jackets with sheepskin edges dyed in pumpkin orange. Elements that fans will find familiar – denim, ruffles, asymmetric hems – were all there but in a new recipe, with sweatshirts and gingham-fresh ingredients. There was a deliberately “off” colour palette of lemon curd, pea green and Ribena purple, and lots of awkward lengths. While other designers this season are merely influenced by Parisian wonky streetwear specialists Vetements, Marques’Almeida are holding their own.
Backstage, a breathless Marques said they were inspired by the girls who wore the clothes. “We always want the collection to feel like it comes from someone’s closet rather than a department store,” she said. “We wanted it to be about the girls, and the personal, individual thing. We had the images of them up on the wall, and we were thinking: ‘What would she wear?’ It ended up being a complete mess of all of them.”
If the looks of Riot Grrrl documentaries and Larry Clark’s Kids influenced the aesthetic, the Eames had an impact on the method. “Ray collected tiny little pieces of paper and fabric samples, a mess of things,” said Marques. “I think this collection really feels like a collage.” In an age where a pick-and-mix approach comes as standard on everything from Instagram to Kanye West’s Life of Pablo, that is what makes it modern.
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