Mary Katrantzou S/S 2020 Athens

[Melancholybaby]

vogue.com

 

[Melancholybaby]

vogue.com

 

[tricotineacetat]

I am normally not a fan of her showing quasi-Haute Couture collections during the ready-to-wear collections but I acknowledge the occasion and circumstances how this collection came to happen were different from before (In case you didn't read - All of these one-off couture looks will be auctioned for a charitable cause and there is no 'commercial' collection backing it off). That being said, she really pushed herself with this collection, the craftsmanship especially on the embroideries looks magnificient - Much more innovative and modern than what the big Paris couture houses are showing in their collections. There are a lot of designers I would prefer to see designing Dior womenswear and Mary Katrantzou definitely belongs on that imaginary list.

 

[gazebo]

Ok, ok...I appreciate this a lot! She pushed herself and created something very compelling.
Also, I love that it's "anti-commercial", providing an antidote to over-commercialization of fashion. Giving it to charity is putting your money where your mouth is, unlike MGC's "feminist" tshirt.

 

[MagFan]

Looks like Dolce and Gabbana, Chiuri and Piccioli were also involved in this project... or not?

 

[YohjiAddict]

Kind of good actually, I like how bold she went with the embroidery, I ended up enjoying the level of excess which you don't see often nowadays, heavy handed as she can be some of these gowns are quite memorable.

 

[Lola701]

It’s big and grand and stuff but I’m not impressed. I really like the craftmanship but it’s a kind of collection where you need maybe two simple slick dresses to balance the whole thing...

Katrantzou, much like Kane, is the kind of designer that would do wonders for another brand. Give her an heritage and an aesthetic to work around and she will be wonderful...Because I don’t see identity here.

 

[AnaD]

Katrantzou, much like Kane, is the kind of designer that would do wonders for another brand. Give her an heritage and an aesthetic to work around and she will be wonderful...Because I don’t see identity here.

This, she seems to lose herself in her references and creative process when designing her collections. There's always so much going on, and it seems that lately she's lost some of the original spark that set her brand apart. For her work is incohesive and her collections are always in need of editing, not just in the styling etc, but in the layout of her collections. There's barely a through line and it's easy to get lost in her shows and in her design aesthetic moving season to season.

However with an established house she'd really excel. Building and adding to a preexisting mythos she could really make a huge impact with her work. The talent, creativity, and craftsmanship is there, this show cements that. She just needs a clear direction to concentrate her energies and she'd really produce some stunning things.

As long as what happened to Bouchra Jarrar doesn't happen to her I'll be very happy.