Mary Katrantzou S/S 2017 London

[gazebo]

vogue.com

 

[gazebo]

vogue.com

 

[gazebo]

vogue.com

 

[Lola701]

I'm sorry but she is really shameless for putting Prada resort 2015 & Jil Sander Spring 2011 dresses in her collection. At least, try to hide it for god sake!

And the obvious Gianni Versace references + on top of that the Versace Greek motif...As if it wasn't enough clear that she referenced Versace.

Do i need to add the Alaia references to it?

Many designers are criticized in NYC or Milan for copying but in London, we find it genius. I don't buy it!

She is great and talented and i don't understand why for the past 2 years, her collections have been derivative of other designers.

It's really frustrating because the whole thing kinda work. The craftmanship is interesting and it's a very diverse and versatile collection.
But i can't enjoy something that's not honest!

 

[Kite]

There are a lot of references in this, however I don't agree with the Versace thing.

The greek key is a symbol, which has been appropriated by Versace in current cultural circles. However I don't think any of the looks that feature they key look terribly Versace, when you have a lot of Jil Sander, Prada and Valentino overriding it in actual design stakes. The greek key is a small piece if this collection, from a greek designer.

Its very Disney's Hercules. a little too much GREEK.

 

[perhydrol]

^That Greek motif wasn't designed by Versace, it's just Greek and comes from the antique art so I don't see anything wrong in using it as a print.

I feel like with the F/W 12 collection she lost her identity. It was her best collection because it combined interesting silhouettes, textures and vivid prints and everything looked really fresh. But here... As you said before she's been referencing other designers but it can be a remedy for that lack of identity, I mean she can try to find herself in work of someone else.

I don't know what to think about this collection. It's not bad at all, but it's so boring and heavy-handed.

 

[jeanclaude]

I'm sorry but she is really shameless for putting Prada resort 2015 & Jil Sander Spring 2011 dresses in her collection. At least, try to hide it for god sake!

And the obvious Gianni Versace references + on top of that the Versace Greek motif...As if it wasn't enough clear that she referenced Versace.

Do i need to add the Alaia references to it?

Many designers are criticized in NYC or Milan for copying but in London, we find it genius. I don't buy it!

She is great and talented and i don't understand why for the past 2 years, her collections have been derivative of other designers.

It's really frustrating because the whole thing kinda work. The craftmanship is interesting and it's a very diverse and versatile collection.
But i can't enjoy something that's not honest!

Love your comment, I agree 100% with you!

 

[gossiping]

i think it's by far her worst to date, it's plain bad taste she should not work with just prints but use embellishment WAY more

 

[Lola701]

There are a lot of references in this, however I don't agree with the Versace thing.

The greek key is a symbol, which has been appropriated by Versace in current cultural circles. However I don't think any of the looks that feature they key look terribly Versace, when you have a lot of Jil Sander, Prada and Valentino overriding it in actual design stakes. The greek key is a small piece if this collection, from a greek designer.

Its very Disney's Hercules. a little too much GREEK.

The knitted dresses in the middle are very Versace circa 1993. Add to that the chainmail dresses...
Even if i know that the greek symbol is not at all a Versace creation (like the medusa), the fact that it's shown with a lot of references to Gianni is the reason of my comment.

When someone is making a collection with so much obvious references (Prada, Alaia), it's easy to find things everywhere even they had nothing to do with the designer's intention.
Maybe that "Versace" came from a very genuine expression of creativity but i cannot help myself to doubt about it...

 

[Inlimbo]

The point is that season after season her collections look always like they were made by different designers.

Valentino for Mary Katrantzou
then...
Miu Miu for Mary Katrantzou
now...
Versace (not only) for Mary Katrantzou

Does she has an own aesthetic? I don't think so.
But i have to admit that the collection wasn't bad!, maybe too much "Disney Hercules" like someone already said.

 

[Dutchhie]

Is there any embellishment in this or is it just print? For sure this is a step back for her....

 

[jescajade]

Many designers are criticized in NYC or Milan for copying but in London, we find it genius. I don't buy it!

She is great and talented and i don't understand why for the past 2 years, her collections have been derivative of other designers.

Completely agree, London designers barely get called out. I think Katrantzou lost her way a few years ago when everyone was over the print thing, she was trying to prove to the industry she wasn't just about print, she should of just stuck to what she does best, she hasn't had a decent collection in years now.

 

[ToniOrtega]

I couldn't concentrate on the clothes cause the psychedelic prints are making me dizzy. I do, however, love how fearless and audacious she is with print.

The Jil Sander-esque dresses are so blatant that it's almost disrespectful...

 

[AnaD]

Print overload! She needs to learn to tame her prints down, it's hard to appreciate each one when they're layered so heavily on her garments, they're overpowering the silhouettes and make the wearer fade into the background.
It's her worst to date and so lacking in originality that it's almost pitiful.

 

[elle_gb]

The clothes look fantastic with those colors but it's quite hard to imagine how to work it in real life.