Mens Suits - Formal Occasion

[versace]

Hey Y'all,
I want all you peoples opinions about formal wear for men.. like should i invest in a designer suit or just borrow.. and also some of your fav mens suits for formals etc.. I really like this dolce and gabbana suit except its from the latest collection and i won't be able to get it coz there's no dolce and gabbana boutique here in aust. I'm thinking of spending approx $1000aus on a suit.. but i want to get one that will also be used for other occassions.. eg weddings, meetings, etc.. oh and its for my high school formal (last yr.. yr 12.. might be called form 6 in some countries).

Thanks a lot!

oh and if ur thinking how come its not in another section of TFS.. well this is the best section to put it in.. plus i want you to post ur fav looks of mens suits for the occasion that i told you about.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

I'm not sure about designer suits...generally it's the same price for better workmanship if you go to a tailors and with a tailors you specify exactly what you want...

My favourite suits? All vintage YSL and also I have a vintage Christian Dior double-breasted with silver and scarlet pinstripes...

But if you want people who are still alive then:

Trendy: Dior Homme (Try Yoox for less than $1000)
Classy: Prada
Neutrals: Armani
Pastels: Helmut Lang
Eccentric: Dries Van Noten
American: Gucci (something very American about Gucci's suits)
Italian: Brioni
English: Kilgour
Gangster: Dolce & Gabbana
Geeky: YvesSaintLaurent Rive Gauche
Camp: Galliano Homme (Costs a small goldmine too)

Personally, I think the best multipurpose suit for you would be a very dark navy blue three-piece with notch lapels, a single button and a deep gorge. Leonardo is in a rather yummy Prada suit here:

 

[Spike413]

I think that for a suit that you can wear for more then one specific occasion, then black or midnight blue would be the best bet for a color. As far as designers go, Prince listed some of the best designers, they all have slightly different cuts, Dolce and Prada are cut narrow in the pants, Armani has a tendency to be more boy in the silhouette. It's really a matter of what fits you best, what cut will make you look your best. I say, shop it out, try on all that you can, and make sure to get measured properly and above all don't settle on a suit, especially one with a designer label and pricetag.

 

[Spike413]

I meant to say boxy about Armani suits, not boy.

 

[Incroyable]

For very versatile suits it has to do with the color, material, and cut. A green Versace pinstripe is not going to practical for you.

As to that I suggest something such as Armani or Gucci for something practical. YSL might be a little esoteric for your tastes. Although I pseronally like them, and ViktoR & Rolf's suits.

Personally I dislike Armani since the silhouette is much too soft, and the quality is not particularly high considering their prices.

For colors something as in blue, black, and gray would work whilst a subtle pattern such as a pinstripe would also be nice. Two buttons with a medium gorge, and double vents are a classic. Three buttons are also a timeless item but stay away from those boxy three buttons so popularized worn with square toed shoes.

Tailored bespoke might be high for your price range.

 

[versace]

Hmmmm... well ive got a lot of shopping to do.. I feel weird tho walking into those boutiques because the staff always look at you as though you cant afford nething.. and yeh.. i feel like that if i try on a suit say in an armani boutique, then i have to walk out with it.. like i dont want to go in there and try on a suit and them getting all angry if i walk out not buying it coz ive tried it on.. ne hints/tips as to how to handle this situation??

I thought Armani was the 'king' of the suit.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Yes, Armani was the 'king' of the deconstructed suit back in eighties. However, that's only a particular kind of suit and it now seems fashionable to forget Armani's importance. For a much harder Germanic version of Armani's suit you could go for Jil Sander.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by versace@Jul 21 2004, 06:28 AM
Hmmmm... well ive got a lot of shopping to do.. I feel weird tho walking into those boutiques because the staff always look at you as though you cant afford nething.. and yeh.. i feel like that if i try on a suit say in an armani boutique, then i have to walk out with it.. like i dont want to go in there and try on a suit and them getting all angry if i walk out not buying it coz ive tried it on.. ne hints/tips as to how to handle this situation??

I thought Armani was the 'king' of the suit.

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NYC staff used to have that attitude, and it didn't take SoHo long to steal all the business from Madison Avenue THEN, led by Barneys, these stores slowly but surely told their salespeople to take the sticks out of their behinds and have fun. Me, I would never spend a dime if I got an attitude like that. You want my money, and you are trying to give me crap? Puh-leese. We have enough competition to take business elsewhere.

On topic: unfortunately for all the companies mentioned you won't be able to afford a suit for 1000 AU dollars. Try hunting on sales, discount stores that carry previous season's items (it's a suit, who cares when it was made, most of them are the same season to season). I would recommend Costume National. Their suits are cheaper and are cut very like Dolce and Gabanna. You might also try D&G (Dolce's second line), although I'm not fond of their quality. If I had the money to splurge on a suit, I would definitely go with Jil Sander (by Jil Sander preferably) over all the brands mentioned here. As far as quality and fit - she is a champ.

 

[Incroyable]

Originally posted by faust@Jul 21 2004, 09:30 AM
NYC staff used to have that attitude, and it didn't take SoHo long to steal all the business from Madison Avenue THEN, led by Barneys, these stores slowly but surely told their salespeople to take the sticks out of their behinds and have fun. Me, I would never spend a dime if I got an attitude like that. You want my money, and you are trying to give me crap? Puh-leese. We have enough competition to take business elsewhere.

On topic: unfortunately for all the companies mentioned you won't be able to afford a suit for 1000 AU dollars. Try hunting on sales, discount stores that carry previous season's items (it's a suit, who cares when it was made, most of them are the same season to season). I would recommend Costume National. Their suits are cheaper and are cut very like Dolce and Gabanna. You might also try D&G (Dolce's second line), although I'm not fond of their quality. If I had the money to splurge on a suit, I would definitely go with Jil Sander (by Jil Sander preferably) over all the brands mentioned here. As far as quality and fit - she is a champ.

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It has to be the Jil Sander tailored line not their regular line of suits.

Armani's suits are fused save for the Classico line. Fused suits are not something to be lauded about. Most Gucci's are as well except for their bespoke collection.

Try Yoox. I have seen some Helmut Lang's, etc. for about $800.

 

[Spike413]

I personally love the silhouette Gucci showed for fall 2002, wide trouser, tapered torso and strong shoulders. It's very elegant and sort of 1930's Hollywood screen actor. Cream definitly wouldn't be a practical color unless you already have one or two versatile suits, but I personally love the look........

 

[Spike413]

Calvin Klein also cut a mean suit, but I'm not so sure now that Calvin's no longer designing. This look is just really cool, and very versatile.

 

[versace]

Originally posted by faust@Jul 21 2004, 10:30 AM
On topic: unfortunately for all the companies mentioned you won't be able to afford a suit for 1000 AU dollars. Try hunting on sales, discount stores that carry previous season's items (it's a suit, who cares when it was made, most of them are the same season to season). I would recommend Costume National. Their suits are cheaper and are cut very like Dolce and Gabanna. You might also try D&G (Dolce's second line), although I'm not fond of their quality. If I had the money to splurge on a suit, I would definitely go with Jil Sander (by Jil Sander preferably) over all the brands mentioned here. As far as quality and fit - she is a champ.

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Nah im pretty sure i can get a suit for $1000.. like Emporio Armani maybe.. but im not sure.. and yeh.. to name you the labels i have to choose from, theres not many.. here they are

versace
gucci
ysl
armani
fendi
LV
chanel (even tho i dont thinks theres suits yet.. but hey.. i dont want a tweed suit )

So theres not many labels in sydney (aust) .. hmmmmm.. decisions decisions

Also.. who makes tailored bespoke (which labels)?? and what is a non-bespoke suit??? should i pay more and invest in a bespoke.... if i found a suit i really loved.. i would spend max $1500Au but thats it,,

 

[Incroyable]

Originally posted by versace@Jul 22 2004, 02:33 AM
Nah im pretty sure i can get a suit for $1000.. like Emporio Armani maybe.. but im not sure.. and yeh.. to name you the labels i have to choose from, theres not many.. here they are

versace
gucci
ysl
armani
fendi
LV
chanel (even tho i dont thinks theres suits yet.. but hey.. i dont want a tweed suit )

So theres not many labels in sydney (aust) .. hmmmmm.. decisions decisions

Also.. who makes tailored bespoke (which labels)?? and what is a non-bespoke suit??? should i pay more and invest in a bespoke.... if i found a suit i really loved.. i would spend max $1500Au but thats it,,

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Tailored bespoke, the quality is much more higher but then so will the price tag. Bespoke essentially is that the item is made exactly to your specifications from the type of lining to the material of the buttons. Prices range from $2,000 to $20,000+ depending on material, and house. Labels such as Kiton, Attolini, Domenico Vacca, Brioni, H.Huntsman, Henry Poole, Ozwald Boateng, etc. are all bespoke makers.

Another option is M-T-M which is made to measure where the house will give you a prototype suit, and you choose certain details such as number of buttons, pockets, material, vents, etc. Then they take your measurements, and make you something. Many houses do this like Kilgour French Stanbury, Oxxford, Brioni, Gucci, H.Huntsman, Dunhill, W.W.Chan, etc. Prices for that range from $1,000 to $5,000+ depending on materials. I believe Alexander McQueen offers a M-T-M program now as well.

All the options above are most likely going to be making a floating canvas front as opposed to a fused front which many designers favor. Actually many of the designers' suits are made by Ermengildo Zegna which also has its own label for high end suits. Their M-T-M line is called Zegna Napoli. Zegna is also a fabric mill.

You being in Australia might be a little difficult to acquire a M-T-M suit, and that the time might be a little constrained.

I'd look for a Jil Sander Tailor Made on discount somewhere since that is a high quality suit coupled with a fine silhouette.

 

[runner]

did you check belinda menswear which carries carol christian poell, helmut lang, rick owens, costume national...?
as for bespoke, Spencer Hart is also cool.

 

[versace]

Thank you all for so much help!! I don't know what to do!! but ive got till november so yeh.. a while away.. but i cant really do the M-T-M option or invest in bespoke because its way too expensive.. but i will for sure, buy one later in the future.. but for now, all i can afford to do is walk into one of those shops i mentioned above and buy an already made suit... not custom made...