Models Demand Union (2007) : Model Alliance formed (2012)

[writergal28]

But will this make it harder for models like Isobella Jade to get work? To my understanding, she often finds work herself, by sending pictures out.

 

[Fontenrose]

This is extremely hypothetical. I am not sure how the Screen Actors Guild works, but some jobs require union membership and some don't. You get membership if you get a certain type of job. All actors, makeup artists, writers who get SAG cards seem to be pretty pleased.

I wonder if SAG would take up the models. Models are performers in a way. The U.S. is pretty pro-union and anti-child exploitation. Some random politician in Cali or NY could score some points here. It might have to be done from the top down.

The trouble is, no one feels sorry for models. They don't look like regular grade eights. It's a bit hard to expect them to write a back-to-school essay for their teachers, "How I organized an international labour union this summer."

There is no payoff for being the Face of a model union, it's really something for a famous ex-model, preferably well-heeled. Maybe Tyra could score some PR points with this.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I think it's a worthy cause, although the concept sounds ridiculous in comparison to the other unions around. I'm sorry, it just sounds funny. A model union?

It doesn't sound funny to me ... there are huge problems of discrimination and inhuman treatment. Models deserve the right to eat just like the rest of us ... Sounds like a great idea, I think a union could really clear the major problems up.

 

[fashionista-ta]

and most models even the famous ones gets paid by clothes, accessories majority of the time, you really think Unions would want that as their fees? C'mon, modeling is not the type of job with longevity , you all know that.

Particularly if one doesn't live to have another career like the two models cited in the article above.

 

[ChloeFrancoise]

Considering certain issues in the industry I have to agree that it's a good idea whether it sounds silly or not.

 

[Kimkhuu]

What's next? Bloggers union?

That's not even funny.

This is a very clever idea (models union). It was about time they got up and denounced this unfair industry!

 

[Fontenrose]

From article on Sarah Ziff's movie Picture Me:

A union, she believes, could provide some protection. She is part of a small coterie of models who are beginning to speak out about the industry and break the mafia-like silence. A few have started blogs on which they talk frankly about their lives beyond the next fitting. Eighteen months ago, two models based in Britain, Victoria Keon-Cohen and Dunja Knezevic, sought advice from Equity and set up their own union. It campaigns for better working conditions, holiday and sickness pay, protection in case of injury.

 

[Fontenrose]

from BBC

2008 Models join union to fight for rights
By Duncan Crawford
Newsbeat reporter
Hundreds of models have joined a union to demand better working rights and protection from sexual harassment, exploitation and even assault.

Since its official launch at London Fashion Week, more than 400 models have signed up to a 'models committee' within the actor's union Equity.
It means models have a place to go to for independent support and as membership is anonymous, agents cannot discriminate against models who join.
It follows repeated claims of "lewd behaviour" towards models, abusive working conditions and girls being pressurised not to eat and lose weight.
Models Dunja Knezevic and Victoria Keon-Cohen, who between them have worked for Topshop, Levi's and Armani, have been campaigning for change in the industry.


Under-age girls
Twenty two-year-old Keon-Cohen told Newsbeat about one shoot in particular.
She said: "There were about 10 girls, all different ages, having to strip down to a G-string to change into this underwear and about two or three men watching all the girls.
"They were trying to hide behind the clothes rack but the men were just looking into the mirrors to see their reflection."
Twenty six-year-old Knezevic told Newsbeat that police should investigate some of the things that go on.
Basic rights
She said: "Lewd behaviour happens quite a bit, actual sexual assault is more of a rarity. The problem is, no matter how rare it is, nothing ever gets done about it."
Equity has spoken to clients, agencies, bookers and photographers about getting basic rights for models and said the industry response has been positive.


Equity are pushing for models to have proper breaks during shoots and trying to make sure they aren't pressurised into being extremely thin.
Models can also get help with legal advice and information on pensions.
'Ethical issues'
Leni Renton from Quintessentially Models backs the move but is not sure everyone is keen to change.
She said: "Lots of the agencies at the moment haven't taken on board these ethical issues that I feel should become the norm.
"Until that happens and they're ready to start addressing those issues I think they're going to find it very hard to proceed with the models union."
There's a model-led conference planned for September.
Representatives from all areas of fashion will be invited to see what progress has been made and to try and sort out what hasn't worked.

Story from BBC NEWS:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/newsbeat/hi/newsbeat/newsid_7409000/7409037.stm

Meet the new radicals

The top 30 names to watch ...

21&22. Dunja Knezevic and Victoria Keon-Cohen
Who: Models
Why: Beautiful, glamorous, well-paid, they make unlikely trailblazers. True, Dunja Knezevic (26) and Victoria Keon-Cohen (21) might usually be spotted looking exquisite in campaigns for Levi's, Topshop and Marks & Spencer. But lately they've been speaking out against the modelling industry and campaigning for union recognition.
These two know many of the industry's secrets: excessive working hours, pressure to be thin, sexual harassment, lewd behaviour, exploitation. 'If a model sprains her ankle,' says Victoria, 'or her scalp bleeds from an allergic reaction or she is photographed naked because the stylist has spoken secretly with the photographer to undo her shirt at the exact moment the shot was taken, she has nowhere to seek help.'
They have persuaded Equity, the actors' union, to form a models' committee, giving them similar status to dancers, directors and stagehands. They want models to have the same employment rights as most other workers - proper breaks during shoots, health insurance, accident cover. And they believe the police should investigate some practices. Dunja cites clients and photographers sleeping with girls who are below the age of consent, and under-16s pressured into doing nude photo shoots. 'It's not recognised as sexual harassment because it's normal. Models don't know any better because it comes with the job.'
They say: 'This industry has long acted as if it's crazy and wild and glamorous and that the law doesn't apply to it. We've had enough. We are determined to change things.' www.kcandk.com

 

[Fontenrose]

from the Scotsman:

New model army


Published Date: 01 April 2008 By ALISON ROBERTS
THEY are tall, brunette, super-pretty and their thighs are not much thicker than my upper arms, and I meet them in a flat in a trendy part of London. So they're not exactly the kind of women to man the barricades or set up a picket line, then?

The models Dunja Knezevic and Victoria Keon-Cohen, who between them have worked for Topshop, M&S, Levi's and Armani, are plotting nothing less than a revolution within the fashion industry. Late last year, after 12 months of negotiation, 26-year-old ADVERTISEMENT




Knezevic and 21-year-old Keon-Cohen announced the founding of a "models committee" within the actors' union Equity, the first step towards the unionisation of their model colleagues.

Their aim is to regulate notoriously unclear, and often abusive, working conditions – what they call "lewd behaviour" towards models, and the pressuring of young girls to lose dangerous amounts of weight.

An eating disorders expert, Professor Janet Treasure, has opined in the pages of the British Journal of Psychiatry that ultra-thin models in fashion magazines and catwalk shows are 'a dangerous influence' on society, saying they are not only putting their lives at risk but also threatening the health of young girls who aspire to be like them.

Yet while they are villified for portraying an unrealistic body image, it should be highlighted that professional models are themselves under pressure from the designers and magazine editors who employ them to maintain extreme slenderness.

Since the official launch five weeks ago at London Fashion Week, Equity has already signed up several hundred models as members. The models know many of the industry's dirty secrets, aside from the tyranny of having to stay thin: chief among them is the issue of long working hours for low pay. "In our industry models lack even the right to a single break in a 12-hour day," said Keon-Cohen.

Stories told to Equity by models during negotiations to set up the branch include a girl who suffered an extreme allergic reaction when her body was painted with car paint for a photoshoot, while a male model said his scalp started to bleed after too much peroxide was put on his hair. Models complained that frequently, while working long hours, they were given nothing to eat.

Keon-Cohen and Knezevic say that a greater number of models in the industry has led to models becoming like "disposable labour", meaning individuals are unwilling to complain about exploitation for fear of being blacklisted.

In essence, these two models are seeking a top-to-toe reassessment of working relationships between models and clients, agencies, bookers and photographers. They believe the police should investigate some practices. Knezevic has cited clients and photographers sleeping with girls who are below the age of consent, and under-16s pressured into doing nude photo shoots. "It's not recognised as sexual harassment because it's normal. Models don't know any better because it comes with the job."

Supermodel Erin O'Connor, who set up a "models' sanctuary" for stressed-out colleagues at her west London flat during Fashion Week, is a big supporter. "Erin has been great," says Knezevic. "She's a great role model, and really cares about welfare issues."

"Girls and boys can be so young when they start modelling that they are really vulnerable," says Keon-Cohen, an Australian who started modelling at 15. "You travel a lot in this job, often without family or friends, or any kind of support at all. The only people you can turn to in those situations are the people you're working with, and they are not always the right people to rely on. The idea is that the union provides them with independent support."

Equity spokesman Martin McGrath says the industry response has been overwhelmingly positive: "We've been working with the agencies and the British Fashion Council. The agencies recognise that there are issues within the industry that need to be addressed and better treatment of models is in their interests."

It is still too early to see if the union will be effective in tackling the issue of too-thin models, but Laura Craik, a London-based fashion editor, believes the move is overdue: "I hope the industry welcomes the initiative. It is terrible that models have been exempt from the protection that actors and other employees have for so long enjoyed. I only hope that Equity steps up to the plate, as I imagine that models have far worse situations to deal with than actors."

Both women, successful working models represented by global agencies, say the high-profile role they have taken has not, so far, damaged their careers. "The reaction (since we went public] has been very positive, from our agencies and clients," says Knezevic. Both the British Fashion Council and the Association of Model Agents have been supportive, they say.

Five of the biggest model agencies – Premier, IMG, Select, Storm and Models 1 – would not comment, but smaller agencies seem keen to pledge support. "As an agency owner I see the models' welfare as paramount," says Alex J of Cape, "if a union helps then I'm all for it." Amanda Ashed, owner of Looks London, which has both actors and models on its books, says: "Equity is extremely good, and when something is wrong it's reassuring to know that they are there. I'd happily advise my models to join."

Membership fees to Equity are on a sliding scale in line with income: a model earning less than £20,000 a year will pay £125 annually, while the most successful, on incomes of more than £200,000, will pay more than £2,000. The models receive the same treatment as all other Equity members, including access to legal advice and insurance deals. Membership is completely anonymous, so agents cannot discriminate against models who join.

Chief among their concerns is the promotion of better nutrition and healthy eating. Both women gave their views to Baroness Kingsmill's Model Health Inquiry, the independent panel established last year. The inquiry recommended regular health checks by agencies, and (to Knezevic and Keon-Cohen's delight) the establishment of a union.

The way the lay person imagines the industry, I tell them, even the skinniest models are regularly told by arrogant designers that they're way too fat. Is that a true reflection? "Well, they don't say, 'Oh, lose five kilos, lose 10 kilos,' It's not that blatant," says Knezevic. "But I have been measured, and the client gave me this kind of look." She mimes a scoffing look of amazement. "Which only meant one thing. Or they try clothes on you at castings and say, 'Oh no, that's too tight,' and you're thinking 'Wow, these clothes are tiny, but maybe I should try harder to fit into them.'."

It would be a mistake to think that they were flirting with the idea, or lacked commitment. As well as formulating codes of practice for photoshoots and catwalk shows, they are starting to address the less glamorous aspects of employment rights: health and safety at work, pension provision, accident insurance. "You might be asked to swim in the ocean in the middle of winter," says Knezevic. "Models get sick. We need health insurance, and Equity has benefits like that. It has lawyers. It can offer advice on pensions."

Both women have politics and civil liberties in their blood. Keon-Cohen's father was a reforming barrister in Australia involved in the landmark case that established the principle of Aboriginal land rights. Knezevic, who comes originally from Bosnia, was taught politics at the dinner table by her activist father.

They agree that London is much kinder to models than Paris, New York and Milan. But there's a catch here, too. The globalisation of the fashion industry has seen a new wave of women from Russia and Eastern Europe arriving in the major fashion cities, and London-based girls can't always insist on higher standards if others won't insist on them too.

Even the Model Health Inquiry admitted the international careers of UK models might be harmed if they were discouraged from losing some weight. "There are lots of pretty blonde girls with blue eyes," says Keon-Cohen, "and if one of them doesn't like what's going on, then another can take her place."

"It's difficult for girls from Russia," says Knezevic. "Often they are earning money to send home to very poor families and their parents just can't afford to fly around the world with them. We definitely believe in having a chaperone, but some girls as young as 15 aren't being accompanied."

So what can Knezevic and Keon-Cohen do to stop a desperate teenage model being exploited in a foreign country? "We are trying to encourage better communication with their parents and families abroad. We'd also like to encourage them to improve their language skills, so are looking into organising language courses," says Knezevic.

Knezevic and Keon-Cohen now plan a "model-led" conference for September this year, to which they will invite representatives from all aspects of the fashion business to thrash out some of the most urgent issues. Their tone is conciliatory, but determined.

But whether they have the power to change an industry which routinely expects young girls to bend to the rules it sets is questionable. They might not have the brawn for a fight – not even, actually, for an arm-wrestle – but they've certainly got the wits.

 

[Fontenrose]

Equity reaches first agreement for UK models working conditions!

A Model Union - Vogue.co.uk

TRADE Union Equity has announced the first ever London Fashion Week Model Programme - an employment contract for models working during the bi-annual fashion event.
"This is a major achievement for models" says Equity general secretary Christine Payne. "At last they have a contract which sets down clear parameters for their working day."
The programme agrees minimum rates of pay annually for LFW catwalk shows, and a minimum age of 16 for participating models. In addition to setting guidelines for working conditions, the contract also includes terms for usage rights, health and safety standards and invoicing and payment. Equity is currently developing a Facebook page for models to use during London Fashion Week, that will function as a virtual drop-in clinic providing support and advice.
"Following approaches from models, Equity was pleased to open its door and provide them with a much needed collective voice," said Hilary Hadley, models' organiser. "Equity now has a dedicated Models Committee created to foster and promote the interests of models both within and outside the union."
Models have been eligible to join Equity since 2007, when models Dunja Knezevic and Victoria Keon-Cohen first approached the union in search of representation. The two women now stand as chair and vice chair on the Models Committee.
"We started the Models Union after working internationally and our frustration mounted because of the inconsistencies in our workplace" vice chairwoman Keon-Cohen tells us. "We are pursuing the simple day-to-day rights that other professions take for granted."
The LFW Model Programme was negotiated by Equity, the Association of Model Agents, British Fashion Council, Greater London Authority and London Development Agency.

minimum pay rate = not being paid in clothes

 

[Phalene]

Good for them. I'll be interested to see how this progresses...

 

[ad041715]

^ Definitely. I hope this happens in NY, Milan or even Paris in the coming years.

 

[Fontenrose]

Press reaction in the U.S. to the UK model regulations:

MSNBC: "... maybe it will take a high profile home-grown American supermodel to become the 'Norma Rae' of American fashion."

http://www.wikio.com/video/union-msnbc-calls-fashion-industry-rae-4126958

 

[Jasmine04]

The Model Alliance website launched today.
http://modelalliance.org/
Definitely worth taking a look at. It features a Models' Bill of Rights, forum, tons of information about the industry,support for models who want to report sexual harassment/abuse, etc.

 

[Toccata]

Wonder what Terry Richardson is thinkin' bout this.

 

[iluvjeisa]

Seems like a great thing.

 

[Rhymenosaurus_J]

I think it's a worthy cause, although the concept sounds ridiculous in comparison to the other unions around. I'm sorry, it just sounds funny. A model union?

How is a Model's union any funnier than an Actor's union (Ever heard of SAG)? SAG was created to prevent the exploitation of actors in Hollywood. Why on earth is it acceptable to treat models as if they are not humans? Models deserve NOT to be sexual harassment on the job, proper working conditions, minimum rest periods, and to be paid promptly for the work the provided.

I think if a member of "The FASHION Spot" thinks a Model's job is "not that hard" they are ignorant and obviously have no experience in the fashion industry.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Wonder what Terry Richardson is thinkin' bout this.

Ha ha. No kidding.

Seriously, though; this seems like a good thing for the models to do. Why not? I like that they are banding together for the rights and well being of all.

 

[ALAUU]

Great idea. For far too long the modeling industry has been glamorized to the point that a model's complaint about discrimination and harassment are just laughed at by people who belittle the profession. It's great that these serious issues are being brought to light.

 

[Jasmine04]

A behind the scenes shot of the Model Alliance video campaign featuring Coco Rocha.

facebook.com/model alliance