Celine Menswear F/W 2024.25 Los Angeles

[VogueDisciple93]

X.com

 

[Frederic01]

CELINE

 

[Frederic01]

What I should say is maybe that there’s no more effort of creativity in his work. It’s curation at its extreme.

So spot on Lola!

Hedi has reached the peak at this point. He doesn't need to, and probably wouldn't be able to, design anything new anymore. All he needs to do is curate and create "a vibe". The clothes are irrelevant.

What I find interesting though is that both he and Raf, who started with the whole "youth" and music subcultures in terms of their influences, have gone down such different paths. Raf has completely evolved as a designer and the beginnings of his career are increasingly less visible in his work. Hedi on the other hand has not evolved. He has double-downed on his aesthetic.

I'm not saying this is either good or bad in terms of a design approach, but I find it very interesting, especially for two designers who started with similar ideas to bringing in youth and music subcultures into their respective design outputs.

 

[PDFSD]

Maybe the term is easier to explain for me in French but while he is a creative, in a sense that he has a creative mind informed by culture and everything, there’s no quote on quote « creativity » in his approach.

And my comment has nothing to do with repetition. A style, an aesthetic, a language is developed through repetition.
I don’t even think I mentioned repetition in my critic.

I don’t find Hedi creative or inventive but in weird way that is really hard to explain, Celine, Saint Laurent is a creative project as a whole. The same for his photos and everything.

What I should say is maybe that there’s no more effort of creativity in his work. It’s curation at it extreme.

The repetitions is not based of your critic, its just to explain what his methods are for his creativity (as in medium/tools: paint brush or a airbrush filter per example )

And you bring up another important part of his method to arrive to his final work that of extreme curation is another of his tools he uses, for me is saying like because he iis using these tools or methods therefore his creativity is not present , because there are many ways to do a painting.

I think there is something human and beautiful about the boredom or the longer breath of ideas that i find more chic than a constant contrived push for renewal & novelty hunger without real innovation.

Even Ralph Lauren has same thing i feel this total world creations and obsession to details and repeating it and curation to its extreme , i think that's one ideal you would need from a brand to step in to a world you buy into parts or total.

Maybe it's true he puts less effort or had other distracting issues like in the past with his health of his ear problem and fear of going deaf i remember.
I did not find its strong this last video as the clothes were also not well documented as part of the total vision, so i did not get into it fully, i can agree it feels weaker for his standard of energy in presentation and details.

 

[PierreGotha]

This feels like a farewell letter. Hedi's fashion cinematography is unmatched, This kind of execution is exclusive only to him and it sets him apart from the rest. While his clothes have always been self-referential and I doubt he'll stray from it. Perhaps the cinematography was a compromise to offset the litany of hedi-isms.

His tenure in Celine has been meticulous and specific. It may not be the most earth-shattering collection but there is a clientele for what he has offered and it is unfortunate if this could be his last collection. This appointment was one of the most unorthodox scenarios in fashion but it was effective and pragmatic.

 

[LadyJunon]

As much as I enjoy Slimane's show-film hybrids, it does become somewhat tiring to see the same fomula of 3/4 view wide shots, aerial shots and lifestyle shots for each show. The production is luxury brand in excellece, but the final product isn't very functional, especially here. I feel that we'd have better results if Hedi delegated the cinematograpy of the runway footage to someone else and only did the storytelling elements.

 

[yslforever]

Yeah the good news is I still fit in all the 2002-2006 Dior Homme blazers, jackets and spencers in 50 (but alas not in 48, and certainly not in the trousers). So this collection is redundant and definitely targeted to those who were too young (or too poor) to enjoy his DH era...
I still kinda expect a campaign by Avedon, and the Y2K revival is complete...
He can leave now...

 

[Norden]

I love his work, and I respect his dedication to a vision. It's a rare feat these days and because of it his work is not flat.
It's completely repetitive, but with that he has built houses with strong identities which values permeate all product lines and visuals, a true creative director. That also speaks volumes about the lack of design, he is indeed not so much a designer anymore, most of the clothes we see are curated references, which fit our time. When I look at the streets I don't see people wearing design, I see people wearing images, vibes and references. Its a very different attitude then lets say 15 years ago. Perhaps this attitude is now shifting.
It's a good moment for him to step away from fashion, I think in many ways the most interesting aspects of fashion have died. It's an industry where middle management has too much power, and if he left because of that, LVMH should do some soul searching.

 

[Creative]

The video is soooooo beautiful.

I’m usually a hater of fashion videos, I find them super pretentious and cliché, so I never waste a minute watching them.

This though… it was so perfect. His b&w is so beautiful, the final part, the cowboy, the landscapes, his taste for boys, the clothes, the cars, the music…a visual masterpiece.

But, tbh, I can’t relate it to Céline. I was thinking all the time about Dior Homme.

I could also imagine Karl wearing some of this. 🥹

In a world full of wannabes, people with no vision, pretentiousness, fashion circus… Hedi is so needed. I agree with Lola that maybe I’m not excited to see what he does next (only if he did Chanel), but it’s fine for me… He is a (young) legend and I wouldn't ask him to reinvent himself. Also, his style, 20 years later, feels so current and desirable.

To me he is like an untouched and non-polluted island in an ocean full of dirt. He is so true to himself, such a perfectionist, has such a personality, such a sleek vision… A kind of Greta Garbo Tom Ford.

I’d love to know how one of his days look like. I imagine a kind of Sunset Boulevard with G. Swanson feeling about them, idk why. And there’s a very strong feeling about melancholy and sadness about his work (his photos mainly). I love sadness and melancholy in art/film/pics, and to me there’s always a tragic vision of life (from à melancholic perspective) about him that I adore… And the best is that he is not trying to tell you that.

 

[IndigoHomme]

To be honest, i'm a Hedimaniac: show me a well fitted suit and i'm on board, but in this video, the music is out of context, I wanted rock broooooo!

 

[Lola701]

To be honest, i'm a Hedimaniac: show me a well fitted suit and i'm on board, but in this video, the music is out of context, I wanted rock broooooo!

Tbh even if they are extremely well done, I hate his videos.
I love his live shows because of the insane energy and pace of those models.

His only shows that have a replay value to me are the ones that actually happened and not recorded six months after in the desert one.

Rock and his usual installations of light

 

[Urban Stylin]

I love how its shot but feel like this would have worked better as a 3-5min fashion film than a showcase. I failed to finish the entire collection because it was taking forever.

 

[Creative]

To be honest, i'm a Hedimaniac: show me a well fitted suit and i'm on board, but in this video, the music is out of context, I wanted rock broooooo!

Do you think rock would fit here? Can’t imagine this video with rock music.

Tbh, the one he used was perfect for the video.

 

[PDFSD]

IndigoHomme said:
To be honest, i'm a Hedimaniac: show me a well fitted suit and i'm on board, but in this video, the music is out of context, I wanted rock broooooo!

Do you think rock would fit here? Can’t imagine this video with rock music.

Tbh, the one he used was perfect for the video.

Technically guys/girls it's rock :-) PSYCHEDELIC ROCK

IN 1969, BERNSTEIN DESCRIBES THE "SYMPHONIE FANTASTIQUE" AS THE FIRST PSYCHEDELIC SYMPHONY EVER COMPOSED MORE THAN 100 YEARS BEFORE THE DAWN OF THE MOVEMENT IN THE LATE 1960’S.

(...)THOSE SOUNDS YOU'RE HEARING COME FROM THE FIRST PSYCHEDELIC SYMPHONY IN HISTORY, THE FIRST MUSICAL DESCRIPTION EVER MADE OF A TRIP, WRITTEN ONE HUNDRED THIRTY ODD YEARS BEFORE THE BEATLES, WAY BACK IN 1830 BY THE BRILLIANT FRENCH COMPOSER HECTOR BERLIOZ. HE CALLED IT "SYMPHONIE FANTASTIQUE", OR "FANTASTIC SYMPHONY", AND FANTASTIC IT IS, IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD, INCLUDING "PSYCHEDELIC".

HEDI SLIMANE DISCOVERED THE "SYMPHONIE FANTASTIQUE" AT THE AGE OF 11 AND BECAME PASSIONATE ABOUT THE ROMANTIC MUSICAL PIECE BY THE YOUNG BERLIOZ.

HECTOR BERLIOZ WAS ONLY 26 YEARS OLD WHEN HE WAS IN AN OBSESSIVE RELATIONSHIP WITH ENGLISH ACTRESS HARRIET SMITHSON, WHICH LED HIM TO COMPOSE THE “SYMPHONIE FANTASTIQUE” ON DECEMBER 5TH, 1830 IN PARIS.