Moschino S/S 2026 Milan

[thiago:)]

I think his work is really good. Not sure if it fits Moschino but I love his design language. He would’ve been great to be at Dior with JWA.

 

[Lola701]

Well, in this comparatively brief show there was literally anything from a newspaper-printed shirt, odd Rabannesque elements and the ubiquitous logo belt to long transparent skirts with flamenco flounces, so obviously something is going to read as true to the brand, but on the whole - which is what I spoke about, not just the clothes - I'm still struggling to find it very Moschino, Franco or elsewise.
I get what you mean though - I thought Pilati made much better clothes than Vaccarello at YSL, but the latter obviously captured the essence of the brand more effectively.

I don’t know if Vaccarello captures more the spirit of the house than Stefano but his Saint Laurent connects more with the general idea of YSL than Stefano’s.
And Stefano is a weird case. He relied heavily on the archives his first 2 years and as his confidence grew, he took some freedom and at the end delivered something more personal.
His best Saint Laurent was when he took a step back from relying on the archives and concentrated on the idea of a YSL woman. After 2009 unfortunately, it was only about him and it disappeared.

Scott’s Moschino was totally personal but the audience connected because it fitted with their idea of Moschino.
The problem is that at some point, it turns Moschino into a caricature that people enjoy for the novelty but with very little to wear or « consume ».

I think that since Adrian took over, I think Moschino’s clothes and accessories are better than before. But with Moschino, présentation is always a key.

I remember the Rossella Jardini/ADR era. The clothes were maybe less « fun », less « everyday life friendly » but there was something in the presentation that was very engaging.

I think that today, there are unfortunately maybe 2 « fun » stylists. Or maybe the team should do the styling.
The products are good so maybe in terms of merchandising it’s doing it own thing but for me the issue is the presentation.

Jeremy Scott’s lack of technical or design skills was visible but it was still executed in a decent way but presented in a elevated way: top models, engaging attitude, fun campaigns.

 

[tourbillions]

I think Moschino’s clothes and accessories are better than before.

After scott i wonder who is now the target market of the proper moschino rtw that he is proposing. Before it was either moschino logo and graphic tees or something very avant-garde/formal. Like the jacket and skirts. Now that he has turned it into an actual rtw brand, the old customers who actually bought scott's higher end pieces (china) might be alienated. Specially the asians who would buy head to toe looks from the runway. I just don't see the same demographic being into what adrian is proposing.

 

[FashioNarrating]

And Stefano is a weird case. He relied heavily on the archives his first 2 years and as his confidence grew, he took some freedom and at the end delivered something more personal.
His best Saint Laurent was when he took a step back from relying on the archives and concentrated on the idea of a YSL woman. After 2009 unfortunately, it was only about him and it disappeared.

As a Pilati fan I'd say his last year at the house was probably the most "him", however before that - and after the strawberries collection (SS10) - he presented several images that rang quite YSL to me, from Daria walking down the stairs in nothing but a draped black "Y" and safari-inspired blouses for men to charming little resort shows at the French embassy in New York and Arizona Muse rolling around a palm tree in a thumb-print dress in Marrakech. The "problem" was that it was all too sophisticated for people, they really just wanted Le Smoking, Paris, red lipstick, exuberant color combinations and definitely more literal takes on the YSL legacy, which is very much what they got through Slimane and Vaccarello.

 

[Lola701]

As a Pilati fan I'd say his last year at the house was probably the most "him", however before that - and after the strawberries collection (SS10) - he presented several images that rang quite YSL to me, from Daria walking down the stairs in nothing but a draped black "Y" and safari-inspired blouses for men to charming little resort shows at the French embassy in New York and Arizona Muse rolling around a palm tree in a thumb-print dress in Marrakech. The "problem" was that it was all too sophisticated for people, they really just wanted Le Smoking, Paris, red lipstick, exuberant color combinations and definitely more literal takes on the YSL legacy, which is very much what they got through Slimane and Vaccarello.

Or it was just too complicated as he took himself very seriously and fell into that thing of the Prada people in being too much into their head.
The strawberries was very him already. Yes we have remember the catastrophe of those but the collection was a whole concept about popelin.
He tried to over-intellectualize YSL when he, himself declared that for him (and it was right), the YSL woman is a woman who doesn’t work. Betty Catroux, the ultimate YSL woman didn’t work. So he created (at his peak) a working wardrobe for a woman who doesn’t work.
Then his YSL became super bourgeois and only the shoes became the stars. And it was around that time that the one sided beef with Bergé started and that every season, someone was presenting a collection that felt more YSL than whatever he did.

His last year was Ok. His last womenswear was good but the menswear, the leather collection is probably one of the best collection of his entire career. Too bad they killed it for Hedi’s arrival.

 

[FashioNarrating]

Or it was just too complicated as he took himself very seriously and fell into that thing of the Prada people in being too much into their head.
The strawberries was very him already. Yes we have remember the catastrophe of those but the collection was a whole concept about popelin.
He tried to over-intellectualize YSL when he, himself declared that for him (and it was right), the YSL woman is a woman who doesn’t work. Betty Catroux, the ultimate YSL woman didn’t work. So he created (at his peak) a working wardrobe for a woman who doesn’t work.
Then his YSL became super bourgeois and only the shoes became the stars. And it was around that time that the one sided beef with Bergé started and that every season, someone was presenting a collection that felt more YSL than whatever he did.

His last year was Ok. His last womenswear was good but the menswear, the leather collection is probably one of the best collection of his entire career. Too bad they killed it for Hedi’s arrival.

True, he did strawberries even for his Zara capsule. I honestly appreciate that he took the whole thing very seriously, with the Manifesto, subtle referencing, actually directional menswear (yes, the Mapplethorpe leather collection was a banger) and high taste level overall, even if at times it seemed contrived. Some complained it was too bourgeois, and while it's certain that a lot of Pilati's work has at least a slight touch of certain uppity, I'm under the impression people aren't really honest about how posh and dressy Saint Laurent's own output was in general. Yves may have wished he had invented jeans, but in reality his clothes were geared towards women who were visibly interested in fashion, well-off - even if they didn't work as stated above - and preferred leaving the house without a bag; on top of that, his collections became increasingly grand in a really old-school (and sometimes even old-fashioned) way as the years went by. In that sense, I don't think Stefano's interpretation of YSL was that far off as much as people pretended it was s0 great and extremely cool that Slimane abruptly made it all about his b&w imagery, leather perfectos, skinny jeans and little groupie frocks once he took over.