Mugler F/W 2023.24 Paris

[Drusilla_]

Lily et Cie summed it up in two words and one devastating reel.



"Couture weak" indeed

 

[RaisinBoy]

Horrible collection, horrible styling…

 

[Drusilla_]

yeah that you'll find no argument from me on - it's ugly.

 

[Lola701]

Lily et Cie summed it up in two words and one devastating reel.



"Couture weak" indeed

While I agree that there’s some sort of laziness in this interpretation of Mugler in this lingerie fest, because Mugler was known for tailoring and body conscious dressing, comparing HC to RTW is a bit ridiculous…

That being said, there are enough great things in Mugler’s RTW to inspire the designer. I think about one collection when Mugler did denim and sneakers…much more relaxed than his sophisticated bourgeoises coquines…

 

[tricotineacetat]

This collection's been haunting my social media feed just as persistantly as the celebrity sightings at Schiaparelli a week before - No surprise it's coming from the same meme-obsessed GenZ kids whose only connecting point with fashion are the very foreseeable stunts we have seen the last couple of years that have propelled the popularity of brands like Balenciaga or Gucci.

Honestly I wouldn't know if Mugler in 2023 could have a different place in the fashion landscape with less a less vulgar marketing - Not at a time when the zeitgeist calls for voluptuous, uber-feminine bodies and make up trends as favored by the Kardashians, with whom Mugler himself collaborated in the last years of his life.

 

[tricotineacetat]

(On a second thought, the only designer that could brew up a Mugler vision I could get myself behind with would be Gareth Pugh, whose fashion spectacles had a much different flavor than what we have seen the last few years)

 

[Drusilla_]

(On a second thought, the only designer that could brew up a Mugler vision I could get myself behind with would be Gareth Pugh, whose fashion spectacles had a much different flavor than what we have seen the last few years)

yeah, his early aesthetic leaned somewhere between Rick Owens and Mugler but with a more London influence (very Leigh Bowery, as many of the early reviews said). I could see that working with the stage/performance/showiness-oriented aspects of Mugler as a brand.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

(On a second thought, the only designer that could brew up a Mugler vision I could get myself behind with would be Gareth Pugh, whose fashion spectacles had a much different flavor than what we have seen the last few years)

You made me have a look back over his work again, and watch some pretty great runways, and honestly it would work really well with Pugh at Mugler. By Spring 2013, when he broke away from the strong Owens-esque influence, he managed to pull off some gorgeous and dramatic looks without doing too much. Pieces that really were able to stand out on their own and never got too fussy or complicated.

Will always have a soft spot for Spring 2014 and Spring 2016. He also knew his way around fur/faux fur and any other hair like fabrications as well.

 

[Drusilla_]

^ yeah I could see it working because Gareth's stuff was great at silhouettes (a strong point of Mugler as a brand), add his ability to do texture and it could have really worked.

 

[gallianostan]

designers like mugler and montana were very of their time. it's better to leave them in the 80s and 90s. their work was rooted in a very specific historical context, which i don't really think works for today.

 

[fenty]

Just a mess, Casey really has no vision for the brand other than a celebrity casting & bodysuits. Formichetti's tiny tenure at the brand was far better than this ! dare I say even David Koma

 

[Drusilla_]

designers like mugler and montana were very of their time. it's better to leave them in the 80s and 90s. their work was rooted in a very specific historical context, which i don't really think works for today.

I guess they looked at the 00s Hervé Léger bandage dress revival and thought they'd have something similar here? It's not that I can't see it working here, but that the execution is so sloppy.

 

[Yasouss]

And the video is here. I really dislike how it is in vertical format. Not sure if it has to do with the way it was filmed at the show but I assume it is to cater to the tik tok / IG crowds on their phones anyways, which may be the case based on the frantic hyper editing of the video...

 

[Avonlea]

Laquan Smith with bigger budget and skilled atelier.

 

[RaisinBoy]

tragic

 

[Delleone]

This THRILLS me to no end! Vampy, pourquoi pas? What I love about Cadwallader’s Mugler is that it feels current and looks like it was designed today, for today.

Hyper-sexualised but not exploitative, to me, at least. Fierce, fantastic and fun. Technically accomplished too — those clothes are not easy to construct and if you think
not I dare you to try! This one’s a scissor sister.

His dynamic, engaging multi-media presentations push the needle forward. Did you see what Madame Dominique did there? Épique!

And he has the best music. Periodt. I’ve been blasting 070 Shake’s Cocoon on repeat, swinging my hips and channelling my inner Shalom. Y-asssssss, hunty, daw-ling.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Paloma trying to vamp it up gave me the biggest laugh I had this month. Another disaster courtesy of this no-taste hack, the only look that doesn’t make my skin crawl would be Adut’s.