Every collection by him has "Yas queen skinny legend Versace boots the house down slay queen hungry mama and oop daddy work Charli xcx snatch my wig" written all over it. It's as if tik tok designed it.
I don’t mind extremes at all but the way they’re here presented feels a little abrupt imo and it’s a real pity because there are some really good looks!
I find this brand devolving into sl*tty clubwear as many others mentioned, when there’s so much potential to experiment with innovative textiles/cuts/3D printing techniques…which is quite ironic considering it’s (self) posited as a ‘forward looking’ ‘futurist’ brand.
I get also the ‘nostalgia’ element playing into the brand’s high drama of contradictions but honestly at this point, they’re just casting models whose best years are well behind them (and I’m not just talking body-wise).
The whole thing comes off as a hamfisted affectation as a result. Just my two cents.
Wont lie, he always has one of the more fun shows of the season. He casts the right models and creates the right mood. Unfortunately his design ability is limited to party/club wear. I've seen a couple of his pieces trending like that infamous catsuit so I guess he must be doing something right plus they do have an iconic fragrance line to fall back on so they probably aren't in a rush to let go of their hype creator.
While his work has that very « YAAS! yes queen! » quality to it that is kind of obnoxious, we have to be honest about the fact that it was also part of Manfred Thierry Mugler’s ethos. He did that kind of thing and this is what is mostly remembered from his body of work.
People remember « Thierry Mugler the showman » and less his tailleurs and all. He was one of those designers in the early 80´s who portrayed that idea of a working girl!
I find this collection good because for the first time, there’s more incline to propose something else. There are interesting propositions like the velvet dresses, the cut on the yellow dress and it alteration in black (very old school Mugler) and that red fringe coat!
He needs to work hard to reintroduce Mugler outside of the club, the after party or the back room…And daywear is the answer for that.
Farida Khelfa is one of my favorite person in the fashion industry so seeing her is always a pleasure.
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