Naum S/S 06 New York

[Kalista]

It's alright but not original enough imo.

 

[Hanne]

very wearable and pretty.

 

[iperlchen]

Interesting. That's pretty much the only adjective I can come up with at the moment.

I'm in love with this dress

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[firstview.com]

 

[Lena]

love this dress you posted perlefine

 

[J'aime_la_mode]

me too!!! I liked this collection though it was a bit too bland but the blandness actually seemed to be a good thing for them..like it worked somehow, I liked it. Overall it was wearable and adorable.

 

[Kimkhuu]

Not that bad, but there's still plenty of room left for improvement...

 

[iperlchen]

You're welcome Lena, thanks for the karma

Review from WWD.com

The beauty of Waleed Khairzada's and Julia Jentzsch's second collection, inspired by desert wanderlust, was in how the garments came alive on the body. There were no frills and no over-the-top fancies, the sort of elements that might make a collection stand out on the rack. But here, it took a figure to notice the precision of cut, silhouette and, most of all, movement at the heart of the label. The lack of straight side seams, for example, let the heavy linens hang with fluidity around the body, whether in a roomy mesh sweater, a relaxed lacquered jacket or a gauze coat — what Khairzada calls, "working completely in 3D." There were activewear overtures — not to mention notes of Jil Sander (where Jentzsch once worked as an assistant designer) — in some of the looks that fused sharp tailoring with modern, architectural bents and techno materials, such as protective and antibacterial textiles and performancewear.

 

[Lena]

great review, makes this clearer to me, the 'lack of straignt side seams' sound very interesting

on the whole find this expressing a modern 'neo'-minimal mood , its good

 

[besta]

simple and chic!

 

[heyjude]

Hate it:-(....nothing interesting to me....maybe I'll have to watch for another season or so???

 

[jennifer~]

My thoughts exactly.

 

[kalypso]

I like that this collection is very wearable.

 

[anaisanais]

nice and simple!

 

[Zazie]

Nice grown-up, wearable clothes..very much in the current neutral/constructivist/slightly romantic mode, but not exciting.

 

[Dixie]

My favorite so far. I love everything.

 

[Ingunn]

I don't like it. The white jacket in the second picture is nice, though.

 

[softgrey]

There were activewear overtures — not to mention notes of Jil Sander (where Jentzsch once worked as an assistant designer)— in some of the looks that fused sharp tailoring with modern, architectural bents and techno materials, such as protective and antibacterial textiles and performancewear.

maybe it's like jil...
where you have to see it close up to really understand what it is...
it does have that quiet quality about it...
not so impressed until perlefine posted the big pic and i could see more detail...
need to see this up close i think....

thanks for the thread helena...

 

[finalfashion]

I loved this collection too. Very inspiring. The geometric cutting and the reverence for fabrics is obvious.

On the subject of originality in fashion though - I think it's hard enough the catch the moment, never mind create something out of nothing. Originality is overrated!

 

[droogist]

Cathy Horyn went into some depth about this label's philosophy and their use of techno fabrics in her NY Times review of their show....I thought it was interesting:

Taste and Technology Succeed on the Runway
By CATHY HORYN
Published: September 12, 2005

Everybody always wants to know the same thing: What does it take to be a success in American fashion? What combination of luck, brains, money and filthy groveling does it take to create a style that other people will think is worthwhile - will buy and invest in? It's like the formula for Coke or something. Everybody wants to know. And here, maybe, is the answer: It takes 15 years, a nicotine habit and one genial Hawaiian.

Even before one knew anything about Waleed Khairzada and Julia Jentzsch, it was obvious from the clothes they presented last week that they had design experience and taste. You could tell this from the fit of a beige linen jacket with embroidered cross-stitching on the seams, and from the proportion of the pants, and the opaqueness of a white T-shirt. You didn't have to know that the fabrics came from Italy and Japan and included so-called "intelligent fabrics," like a pima cotton with antibacterial agents (so you don't have to wash a garment as often and can conserve water) and a denim made of cotton and paper that is lighter than conventional denim and sensitive to body temperature as well.

Five years ago, in his spare time, Mr. Khairzada, who was then the design director at Harve Benard, a coat and suit house on West 39th Street, drafted a business plan for a luxury-goods company that would use future technologies, which in most cases are already here. He had been working with a company that had developed a T-shirt that could upload a person's heart rate and other vitals to a satellite. You could see how something like that could have tremendous meaning to sports and medicine, but what about fashion? "This got me thinking," said Mr. Khairzada, 37. His business plan had 60 pages of financial details alone, and the support of a number of experts, including a professor at Columbia, he said. Then came Sept. 11, and no investors could be found.

A couple of years ago, though, a friend of Mr. Khairzada's, Ann Gentile, who is director of fabric research at Ellen Tracy, mentioned the plan to her cousin, Kosta Naum. Mr. Naum has business interests in Hawaii that include gardening. He wanted to invest. Then last summer, while having a cigarette outside 205 West 39th Street, Mr. Khairzada met Ms. Jentzsch, a designer with atelier training in Europe. The two met again and realized they shared a belief in the radicalism of minimalist design. One day they went up to Dia: Beacon to see Richard Serra's "Torqued Ellipses."

"Julia said, 'I could design the whole collection right here,' and I said, 'Oh, my God, so could I,' " Mr. Khairzada recalled. He laughed. "Some cheesy music must have come up in the background."

That was the beginning of Naum, the collection they presented last Thursday in Greg Mills's showroom in the garment district. The designers still have their day jobs-Ms. Jentzsch as the creative director of Philippe Adec in Paris and Mr. Khairzada as a consultant at Harve Benard. But with Naum they have at least tried to embrace the ideals of Rudi Gernreich and Issey Miyake, who said 35 years ago that the future of fashion lay in technology.

excerpted from http://www.nytimes.com/2005/09/12/fashion/shows/12FASH.html

 

[bohemian rhapsody]

I think their techniques are cool. I hadn't heard of Naum before this season and I am impressed. I love all of it so much.