Sorry Scott, that´s what I didn´t mean to express - I don´t see his collection as "refined"... I just tried to sum up the mood that is currently in the air, and I don´t think Nicolas´ work fits into any of those categories... I am also not trying to show that he is the only one with an individual spirit, but he certainly has a voice that is his...
Maybe you´re right that his work is very slick and less "handmade" in the appearance, but I think it´s just in the eye of beholder if one can appreciate that aesthetic or not. I have always appreciated designers (Yohji Yamamoto, Hedi Slimane´s late YSL/early Dior Homme, Helmut Lang) with a very stark, focussed view. Minimalism, or redux as I´d rather like to call it, doesn´t necessarily need to be boring, for me it´s focussing on the essential, just like a strict Zen aesthetic.