Paco Rabanne F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

Now I know where all Ghesquière rejected looks for Vuitton end...

 

[THD96]

It's not as good as the Monaco show but I like it, it's approachable but still very daring. It's the balance fusion between the Nicolas's Balenciaga silhouettes and mixed fabrics with Julien's PR metallic signature. The red dress of Ashley and the olive green no. 12 are the highlights of this collection.

It's weird but I like MAS styling here than at LV. It's just make sense. It's doesn't feel heavy or too much. She should use this approach for LV.

 

[Phuel]

What a crying he gave up on what he started with his debut.

All too try-hard, too overwrought-- and Nicolas he clearly isn't anywhere remotely close to the level of. The gold and metallic messes look like when the Rodarte women would troll the fashion sheep with Newark outlet discount 80s prom dresses and convinced them it was intellectual. Janet’s “What Have You Done For Me Lately?” video comes to mind.

The only singular radiance in all this dumpster fire is seeing Lineisy.

 

[Lola701]

Evolving around the Ghesquiere universe is ultimately what limit the possibilities for Dossena. Change the cast and the footwear and you have a different pov.
He will never work with someone else but I really think he needs to move on from MAS. Her hand is just too visible, almost overwhelming.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Changing the cast and footwear isn’t going to improve these ugly clunkers. Nothing can lift these awful dresses— and it’s just all dresses, from their deadweight 80s designs. There’s nothing to separate— unlike Nicolas’ maximalism at Vuitton. There, the jackets, coats, blazers, blouses/tops, skirts, pants can all be taken part and rearranged, styled to a more palpable accessibility from MAS’ excessive overstyling (which has become so grating by now, she needs to try something else).

 

[YohjiAddict]

This was so tacky! It started out sorta tolerable but those god-awful sequined, gathered trims kept reappearing and ruining almost every outfit.

The detailing is hideous (ruffles, gathering, insets, sequins, mohair) and it all adds up in garments that can easily make you look twenty pounds overweight! Not only that but also quite deranged.

If I’m really generous, I like three dresses (which bring to mind Ungaro more than Rabanne) but I remain most amazed that a designer I once liked could present a disaster of this magnitude.

 

[kikifoz]

Gonna leave this right here....

Louis Vuitton Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear Collection

 

[perhydrol]

I don't know why, but Paco Rabanne has been quite directionless as of late. It's obvious when we compare F/W 21, S/S 22 and F/W 22. The first one felt almost like a cosplay of the '80s, it was cute, but still very literal. Then, the summer collection happened with the '70s. The silhouettes were much more simple, but at the same time it was loud with the patterns. And now we have this semi-conceptual collection that feels super limited. I don't know but something must be wrong behind the scenes as this doesn't even look like fun. Some looks are good, but it just doesn't make sense in the context of the brand.

 

[Nomar]

Well this is disappointing, it's like the ugly love child of Rodarte and LV. He also just repeated the same three silhouettes.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Gonna leave this right here....

Louis Vuitton Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear Collection

what a show

 

[Bernie Flood]

Gonna leave this right here....

Louis Vuitton Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Same stylist

 

[Melancholybaby]

Same stylist

Did MAS work with Marc? I thought it was Katie Grand.

 

[Lola701]

Same stylist

MAS only styled the campaign…

Did MAS work with Marc? I thought it was Katie Grand.

She did the campaigns. I think she only did 3: the two with Madonna and the one with Lara Stone than Karl Templer took over…

 

[Bernie Flood]

Did MAS work with Marc? I thought it was Katie Grand.

She styled the campaigns.

 

[Melancholybaby]

She styled the campaigns.

Which is why any resemblance with that 2009 LV collection, probably doesn't have much to do with MAS herself.

 

[LadyJunon]

Looking back at this collection, I really like it, but it's so poorly merchandised. A whole collection of mostly dresses, a couple of separates, a pair of pants, no outerwear.

While I can usually find a good chunk of the house's "collection défilé" in various stores, despite looking for months, I could only find a couple of runway pieces looks and several watered down (albeit still very appealing) pre-collection pieces. The rest of the gaps are filled with reissues from Fall'19 and Fall'21 for dresses and Fall'20 for outerwear and pants.

Quite a shame really.

 

[Mutterlein]

My only issue is with the bubble/tulip skirts which will not flatter ANY woman.

 

[LadyJunon]

My only issue is with the bubble/tulip skirts which will not flatter ANY woman.

They obviously knew that since they didn't even attempt to sell them.