Paco Rabanne S/S 2021 Paris

[Lola701]

x1000 better than any Vuitton collection under NG. A winning collection imo.

OMG! Heart Attack and I’m falling!

 

[Benn98]

OMG! Heart Attack and I’m falling!

Hahahaha, I just don't get his collections for Vuitton. Never have, probably never will. I don't even know how it's selling. It's too unnecessarily dense and severe. For both the Vuitton customer and for fashion right now.
There's an ease to Dossena's Paco Rabanne. His women never seem restricted whereas with NG they're constantly frozen and squeezed into rigid materials and overthought colours.

 

[Lola701]

Hahahaha, I just don't get his collections for Vuitton. Never have, probably never will. I don't even know how it's selling. It's too unnecessarily dense and severe. For both the Vuitton customer and for fashion right now.
There's an ease to Dossena's Paco Rabanne. His women never seem restricted whereas with NG they're constantly frozen and squeezed into rigid materials and overthought colours.

I’m a devotee so I’m biais. But I must admit that I’m afraid at what kind of stunt MAS is going to pull out this time. I’ve enjoyed most of his work for Vuitton but everytime, I feel like MAS is testing me with her styling.

I must admit that from the earlier releases FW2020 is less appealing than I expected. It’s as bad as FW2017.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^LET MAS ALONE

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LOL

I’m a devotee so I’m biais. But I must admit that I’m afraid at what kind of stunt MAS is going to pull out this time. I’ve enjoyed most of his work for Vuitton but everytime, I feel like MAS is testing me with her styling.

I must admit that from the earlier releases FW2020 is less appealing than I expected. It’s as bad as FW2017.

Well— I’m not bias or a devotee of his, nor invested in his Balenciaga designs (I do own a few of his Balenciaga from the late-2000s. But I’m sure the menswear weren’t overseen by him), and I still think as commercial and even annoyingly tacky-80s as his Vuitton has become, he’s still possessed of an irreverent, masterful talent that anyone lesser would have turned in a mess if they tried to do what he does:cough: Givenchy:cough. His overwrought, and overly-maddening mix of textures would never come together as solidly had it been attempted by the likes of JW, Altuzarra, Rodarte etc. Let’s give credit where credit is due: He is very good at keeping tacky and overwrought from falling into cheapness. His Vuitton-era doesn’t quite live up to his Balenciaga golden days— but I get the impression from his Vuitton offering that the brand of creative vision that he brought to the former just wouldn’t work for the commercial needs of the latter: So his market strategy is very sharp. He’s proven to be impressively versatile and a hardy survivor of this fickle industry. He’s dumbed down his sensibility no doubt— but his dumbing-down is still way way way more creative than all of this new generation of designers. He’s the Rococo style to everyone’s Jeff Koons (...:cough: Givenchy:cough:…)

MAS on the other hand…

 

[Lola701]

^^^ LOL

Well— I’m not bias or a devotee of his, nor invested in his Balenciaga designs (I do own a few of his Balenciaga from the late-2000s. But I’m sure the menswear weren’t overseen by him), and I still think as commercial and even annoyingly tacky-80s as his Vuitton has become, he’s still possessed of an irreverent, masterful talent that anyone lesser would have turned in a mess if they tried to do what he does:cough: Givenchy:cough. His overwrought, and overly-maddening mix of textures would never come together as solidly had it been attempted by the likes of JW, Altuzarra, Rodarte etc. Let’s give credit where credit is due: He is very good at keeping tacky and overwrought from falling into cheapness. His Vuitton-era doesn’t quite live up to his Balenciaga golden days— but I get the impression from his Vuitton offering that the brand of creative vision that he brought to the former just wouldn’t work for the commercial needs of the latter: So his market strategy is very sharp. He’s proven to be impressively versatile and a hardy survivor of this fickle industry. He’s dumbed down his sensibility no doubt— but his dumbing-down is still way way way more creative than all of this new generation of designers. He’s the Rococo style to everyone’s Jeff Koons (...:cough: Givenchy:cough:…)

I’m loyal to designers, not necessary brands. I enjoy buying clothes and not necessary bags or logos pieces...So, despite what his runway shows looks like, I know Nicolas still designs pieces that fits my style and as I like to say, that solves problems: it can be a beautiful pant, an interesting Parka and even the bags...I feel like no matter what he still designs for that urban and active woman (and men too tbh). I’m less invested in the idea of Louis Vuitton as a whole of course. Balenciaga was really his POV from beginning to end...From the designs of the stores to the runway presentation.

I’m maybe less harsh on him than a lot of people because I understand what he is doing at Vuitton. From what I’ve been told, part of his personal desire was to develop the RTW at Vuitton and ultimately, it succeeded... Mainly because he had a very pragmatic and almost detached approach to his work for Vuitton. We all loved the fantasy of Marc’s Vuitton but overtime it became just a fantasy as Marc literally only worked on a limited-produced runway collection. The aura of Marc’s shows helped sell a lot of monogram pieces but around the time he left, Vuitton was struggling to have bags in leather that sells well. I think Nicolas has succeeded in making Vuitton relatable for everyday life...

My frustration with his work is that I sometimes feel like they are trying too hard ( him and MAS) to push the most horrendous propositions. Sometimes, easiness does not mean laziness. And Vuitton RTW Atelier does not have the finesse of a Couture trained Atelier like Balenciaga. He used a lot of neoprene at Balenciaga and it was done with a lot of finesse. Sometimes his experimentations feels short at Vuitton because I don’t think they are that advanced in fabrics development.

MAS is a fabulous stylist but less is more with her. Sometimes I wonder if she forgets that she is styling for a runway show and not an editorial...Because with a full look policy, Vuitton looks ridiculous on magazines.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^ MAS does not have that much influence on Ghesquiere like a lot of people think.

Truth be told, her styling has changed a lot by working with Nicolas. He is the one who taught her a more complicated approach of styling.

Her work for Chloe, Louis Vuitton by MJ, Phi, Diesel Black gold and early Balenciaga prove it. Even her editorials.

The issue of these two is that they are on their own bubble of being THE taste makers of fashion industry and that no matter what they will do, success will come to them. I guess they will need a fail to just re-evaluate their work.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ They are the invincible dynamic duo for the moment— and likely for a while since their aesthetic is very much still fresh in how they re-envision the 80s in a style that’s so coveted by the mood of the moment. But much like Tom and Carine, their luster will diminish. And it’s at that time, hopefully Nicolas will return to the masterful technique of form and design he applied with Balenciaga. In the meantime— and much like how Nicolas is detached from Vuitton and it’s clearly not personal but commerce for him, I can appreciate how even his very commercial (and tacky) work is miles ahead of what’s being offered teed days. (And there’s so much life and joy even in all the 80-tackiness, he’s clearly having a good time— unlike current-day Chanel, Dior, Prada etc where there’s no longer any signs of joy. Just desperate commerce.)

Hahahaha, I just don't get his collections for Vuitton. Never have, probably never will. I don't even know how it's selling. It's too unnecessarily dense and severe. For both the Vuitton customer and for fashion right now.
There's an ease to Dossena's Paco Rabanne. His women never seem restricted whereas with NG they're constantly frozen and squeezed into rigid materials and overthought colours.

The total looks are severe and absolutely intentional as an attention-wh*re strategy. Try to see his designs as separates and you’ll see the secret of his success.

 

[Lola701]

The total looks are severe and absolutely intentional as an attention-wh*re strategy. Try to see his designs as separates and you’ll see the secret of his success.

Exactly! At Balenciaga they served us Total looks that were so perfectly executed that it did not make sense to separate them. The Jodhpurs of FW2007 were totally unwearable if you didn’t have narrow hips! The aesthetic was so strong at Balenciaga that whenever you wore his clothes you styled it in your way...

Vuitton is not Balenciaga. You don’t buy it the same. Balenciaga was a fashion house. Vuitton is a luxury brand. So, the pieces needs to be potent, to stand out on their own.

People still have the nostalgia of his Balenciaga days and are comparing the two eras when the brands, the operations and even the positions aren’t the same. A lot of us remember how much of a struggle it was for him to express his creativity, even before the System Magazine interview...

We all hates the way the suits are handling things but I’m happy to see that his Vuitton is successful enough for him to dare putting those kind of clothes on the runway. And tbh, it’s easier to wear Nicolas’s clothes today than it was at some point at Balenciaga...

Dossena is a bit of the same. His earlier clothes for PR were really strict, sportswear inspired but quite rigid and now, he is adding more flou and discovering things. It’s good to see Paco Rabanne move away from the caricatural vision of the 60’s.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I just do not like his aesthetic. All the Ghesquiere alumni, MAS, and Nicolas himself...I just can't get into any of it. It does nothing for me.