Creative Director Redefines Paco Rabanne
Sat Mar 5,11:15 AM ET
By CAROL MONGO, Associated Press Writer
PARIS - "Relevant" was the word Saturday at Paco Rabanne, where new creative director Patrick Robinson used the fall-winter ready-to-wear collection to update the house's fashion statement, replacing the 1960s-style metal look with steel-gray satin.
"This will be the first season where there is no metal, no references to the 1960s," the 38-year-old American designer said. "I believe the house has more to say."
Instead of wrapping the body with strips of steel, Robinson, who left Perry Ellis five days before signing on with Rabanne, chose steel gray satin cut into wide bands fashioned into dresses, blouses and skirts.
The closest thing to the metallic references of the past was the metallic finish on a fur-trimmed bathrobe coat and a sparkling pewter gray lurex aviator jacket worn over one of those charmeuse ribbon skirts.
Except for a black silk cocktail dress trimmed in Swarovski crystals over the bust, there was no trace of the 1960s.
"I want to move the house to a point where it's relevant to today's woman," Robinson said. "In the past, it has been plagued with gimmicks, costumes, things which are not relevant. Now there's glamour."
Robinson was given carte blanche in redefining the look of the house. Rabanne, the house's namesake, relinquished his role as consultant only two months before Robinson was hired.
Encouraged by Rabanne to do only what was in his heart, Robinson sent out a series of modern looks, including great big overcoats that drop down from rounded shoulders to the mid-calf and red fox chubby jackets audaciously worn over a cranberry red, knee-length, pencil-thin suede skirt.
A licorice black reptile embossed, waist-length jacket sports a shoulder-to-shoulder fox collar and is worn with a perfectly cut pair of black straight trousers.
Antonio Marras, the designer behind the Kenzo label, took us around the world and into his memory of favorite people, places and things.
This immensely colorful collection began at a favorite house and garden of his childhood memory. Upholstery fabrics and prints were used in formfitting dresses with soft draped details, embroidered jackets worn with jeans bearing colorful appliqués and patterned knee-high boots.
Ponchos and smock dresses over tiered skirts were dipped in a kaleidoscope of hot, south-of-the-border colored patterns and prints. Princess line coats bore Mexican prints, and one very special sheepskin coat was embellished with brightly colored embroidery and saffron astrakhan fur trim.
From there, he headed to Europe via red tartan plaids draped on an angle and fashioned into ankle-length kilts.
The journey ended with actress Marisa Berenson who, strolling to the music of "Barry Lyndon," appeared in the finale clad in a soft ecru coat of embroidered suede, trimmed in shaggy lamb and worn over a cabbage rose, wallpaper-print dress.