Originally posted by Fashion Wire Daily Paris June 29@ 2003
Paul Smith Earns His Stripes
By Karl Treacy
Perhaps in an ode to his pattern of choice, Paul Smith chose the <span style='color:red'>White Stripes as the opening track at his latest men's show.
The man who made multicolored striped shirts (not to mention flower printsand embroidery) acceptable -- nay, expected even -- of urban businessy types, served up a strong but light collection for next spring, heavy on the graphics yet soft in mood.
Birdsong and floor-to-ceiling curtains of white fringe greeted guests Sunday evening at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, where little tubs of ice cream were a hit in the heavy heat.
Smith's signature stripes were everywhere, from seersucker suits to a knitted tie. They came mismatched on vest tops, jackets and sweaters, and in strong shades or sun-bleached tones. Black even appeared, albeit briefly, for a passage of slim, self-striped two-button suits.
There really is only so much you can do with plain stripes though so, as always, Smith focused on his love of color, juxtaposing a red-and-white and red-and-blue striped shirt with red trousers in micro-houndstooth, and tying the whole thing together with a neat red leather belt. White or blue pointed thin-soled shoes and grommeted sandals with serrated edges helped set off the looks.
With Bridget Riley-lite Op Art effects decorating sweaters and poppies gracing shirts, louder block prints appeared in Carven green, aqua, magenta or brown, sometimes simultaneously.
Smith positioned his models in seated and standing groups at the end of the catwalk, a new group for each mood -- be it prints, stripes, suits, or the color green. At the finale, they all trooped out together in a medley of white shirts -- embroidered, sequined, printed, self-striped, raw-edged -- to applaud Smith, who jogged smiling down the runway, another fine collection under his (stripe-free) belt.</span>