Peter Do S/S 2022 New York

[RedSmokeRise]

Well, that's weird. Did he run out of time? It looks like 4 separate collections! There are so many raw edges but I guess he wants to be painterly about it. The final section of decorative florals feels so out of character.

I don't hate it. But I also don't like it. I'm still rooting for him (maybe for another 2 seasons lol) but .... someone needs to destroy that neon green crepe shirt.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Basic patterns that any skilled graduate student could cut. Not impressed in the slightest. Leading up to this show all the hype was on Do and his rather strange mysterious persona. It was a 21st century knockoff Margiela act that was quite odd if we are being real. Like you don’t want to be seen, but you get photographed alongside your team constantly, really?

Anyway, the pleated skirt, lean-silhouette (more Margiela), and loose top is getting to be stale. I found his use of color this season strange in its randomness, no real consistency or flow to the set. The conclusion was ok. Nice tailoring but it lacked any real character or personality.

If you head over the Bergdorf you can find most of his clothing on sale, and I mean really on sale, not just a 10% markdown but rather some items are listed for more than 60% off. I do wonder if he is selling anything outside accessories. I mean, the clothes are wearable and easy to style, but I believe the attention he is receiving does not match with what is happening in the marketplace.

 

[SophiaVB]

I have actually wondered why the price point is so consistently high? I get that it's "made in NYC" or whatever but no one is paying like 3-4k for a leather coat from an unknown designer. His team seems very young and green. They would do well to bring in more business and product people to help guide them through the press cycle because they're going to burn out like every other buzzy young NYFW brand.

 

[Lola701]

Not at all what I (we?) expected…
I feel like this isn’t the right season to show for him (FW2022 would have been more clever), neither is the venue or even the cast.

This is unimpressive and rather forgettable. There’s nothing worth buying here for me.

I’ll forget about this quicker than we all forgot about Marc Jacobs’s latest collection.

I hope next season will be better and more focused.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Only in New York can this be considered exciting...bored of the oversized thing, I'm hoping Pheobe goes for something tailored closer to the body and gives characters such as this one an incentive to stop showing clothes that look stolen from a fat man's corpse.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I always had mixed feelings for Peter Do.
I don't like when he copies Philo-Lang-Margiela but he showed us some clever tailoring ideas in the past and interesting mixed of fabrics.

But this debut collection ???? SO COMMERCIAL AND UNDERWHELMING !
I was expecting sharp silhouettes, killer accessories, avant-garde tailoring mixed casual denim and darker vibe.
You can tell he had some buyers to please in the crowd with easy to sell looks.
So disappointing.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Ok I don’t want to continue to harp on the man and his team but I just have to point this out quick. Usually I could care less about the set or runway. The clothes could be set anywhere and worn by anyone, it doesn’t matter to me- just show good clothes. But I noticed that Do’s “Runway” and finale matched Margiela’s SS1989 collection identically. Martin used an all white cotton fabric to cover the floor (he later went on to use the textile in the following collection), as did Do. The white table cloth covered the whole set. Also, many associate Margiela with being anti-press and say he never took a bow at the end of collections. However, for his debut show, he actually stepped out alongside his whole team who happened to be wearing the iconic white lab coats. Guess who “surprisingly” stepped out alongside every single member of his small team this season, you guessed it. It may be a reach, but he is LITERALLY copying Margiela’s personality and past actions. Aside from the clothing itself, I find this feature so strange.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Runway is up!

 

[mathiaskatz]

I still think there's a lot of potential. It's just a little surprising that the guy was being acclaimed for how well tailored and structured his garments were, and we get this collection. NYFW needs life and I'm all for more designers and not stylists cosplaying as designers.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

This feels a bit frumpy compared to his previous seasons. And so many useless filler looks that I would question even in a lookbook. Then again, I can totally understand that the look and signature pieces that made him known is quite hard to wear IRL outside of his lookbooks. They are so slim, stiff and layered, ”a total look”, and while it is nice to look at, I think what people want to actually wear is the complete opposite of that.

 

[EDEN21]

this is the NYFW show all the "fashion enthusiasts" on instagram were looking forward to? lol.

not terrible but nothing particularly exciting. although looking for excitement at NYFW is oftentimes scraping the bottom of the barrel