Photographers: how to find clothes /wardrobe or a stylist for a photoshoot?

[rxphoto99]

Hi
I'm a photographer wondering where I can find new stylists who are working on their books and can help out with model testing?
I get all these really great models but I need decent clothes to use.
I've been able to find a couple of good stylists, but the rest just either can't get their hands on good stuff (unless it's going to print) or they just don't make any sense at all.
Anyone have any leads?

\\\

 

[BetteT]

That's kinda how it works ... the better designers and their publicists pick the projects that they will participate in and are not interested in tests where they don't get any press. They probably already pay a fortune to a photographer to get the images they want as part of their marketing/advertising plan. They just want exposure ... so if you can give them credits in a decent magazine or if the stylist is putting the clothes on a celebrity, they are usually quite open to lending. So it's not really the stylist ... it's placement. One exception is the famous stylist who has a stable of celebrity clients ... then the designers will do anything to get in his/her good graces ... including giving the stylist stuff, too.

So start hitting your local magazines, show them your stuff and see if they are interested in you producing an editorial or two for them. Then you can approach your stylists with the project and a pull letter from the magazine and they can approach publicists and designers and will have lots of choices.

 

[rxphoto99]

thanks for the input, but I was more interested in finding stylists who are just getting started, and not so much a lesson in how the publishing industry works. I'm already aware of how that side of fashion photography functions.

I was just curious to see if there were more beginners out there who do style shoots outside of the typical scenario. for instance, I've met a few people already who do some styling but who aren't doing it for magazine editorial gigs yet, because they're still building up their portfolios. but they *do* manage to put together nice looks. and I know more of them exist out there. I just don't know where.

it's still a mystery to me as to how stylists establish themselves, since you figure that you need a portfolio of some sort to show what you can do, but how can you put together a portfolio if you can't borrow any clothes? it just doesn't make sense. maybe someone can enlighten me.

 

[BetteT]

I tried to edit to add the following but I waited too long.... so her's the rest of my thoughts;

You said it was for model testing ... so if it's just for the models' own portfolios you are pretty much limited to the model's own clothing or using a fairly new stylist who just has a closet full of stuff ... which can often be too "trendy" for shoots. It's helpful if the stylist has good credit and would be willing to buy and return stuff ... a bit of a cheat and they can only do that so many times before they get stopped.

You can find stylists at Musecube.com and search by your state. Be aware that many of these are just "wannabe" stylists ... so have a long conversation with them and ask to see their book, before choosing one. It's tough finding good stylists ... and even harder for model tests.

And to answer your question that you just posted as I was posting this ... most stylist fail because that is the hump to get over. I did by buying and reaturning, mixed with what the model had, thrift shop finds and contacting brand new designers who didn't even have any pictures, and negotiated with them and the photographer to give them prints. It is not easy ... as you have figured out and that's one of the reasons that most stylists don't make it.

Good luck in your search.

 

[rxphoto99]

that's what I was afraid of hearing.
thanks for the input anyway.

 

[Stylebites]

Photographers: how to find clothes for a photoshoot?

Hello everyone!

I got this letter from a reader the other day and I'm going to print my entire entry from my blog, Stylebites. If you've ever wondered how to find clothing or a stylist for your shoot, this should start you out on the right foot or help you get around the problem.

-Stylebites

---

Mashell asks:

"I'm a fashion retoucher and aspiring photographer based out of Detroit and I'm getting ready to do my first 'spec' shoot [not commissioned by a magazine] for fashion editorial. Things are coming together pretty well, I have made some good connections and have a great model and H/M [hair/makeup] stylist team.​

My problem is clothes! I have almost no clothing connections outside of my area (or clothing stylist connections) and I don't want to use all local stores and designers. My shoot has no chance of getting picked up if the clothes aren't right and if I don't do this soon I will miss all the S/S publications.​

Basically I need to figure out how to pull clothes when I am an unknown photographer far from NYC who cannot guarantee that the shoot will even be published. any suggestions...or know of any charitable pr firms?? HELP!!"​

Hey Mashell! You're in a tight spot but many photographers outside of NYC/Paris/Milan/London have the same troubles. Here are my suggestions:

1. Locate a wardrobe stylist immediately. Even Detroit must have some local fashion magazines. Call the editorial departments of those magazines and ask to speak with whoever is listed as the Fashion Assistant (or if there is none, then the Fashion Editor). Explain to that person that you are looking for the best stylist in Detroit for a shoot that will be published in a national magazine. Be ready to name that magazine if you can. Maybe the person you are talking to is the one who styles her own shoots. Maybe she can help. Ask to meet her for coffee, at her convenience. If you are really going to get your shoot published (or have a really good chance) then a local stylist will jump at the opportunity for new "tear sheets" (magazine pages with her work).
2. Piggy-back your shoot. If you are able to locate a stylist who is already working in Detroit, find out if you can piggy-back your shoot with another she's styling. There's a (slim) chance that she's already borrowing/pulling designer clothes for another magazine. If you can schedule your shoot for the day after her's then she can bring the same clothes for your story. In this case you will have to work your story around the pieces that she brings. This is very common in NYC/Paris. I don't know how it will work out in Detroit.
3. Work with an upscale boutique. You may have a really good boutique in your area that caters to the wealthy set there. Ask to speak with the manager and explain your dilemma. Ask if she will have any of the new collections in time for your shoot. This is honestly one of the worst times of year to be doing what you're attempting since the sales are on and little new-stock has arrived. Offer to give the boutique a CD of the images to use in their shop or offer to print some out poster-size. Beg. They may charge you up to 30% to use the clothes (which can be a lot when we're talking about borrowing Marc Jacobs or Lanvin) and if you damage or dirty any of the pieces you will have to pay for them (ouch!).
4. Don't count on showrooms or PR firms, especially this time of year. You will be on the waiting list below every major and minor magazine in the world. Many times there are only 1 or 2 samples of each item for the whole world. Since every magazine is shooting spring stories right now, you can see your chances. Besides, the main purpose of a showroom is to display clothes for potential buyers (like that boutique in Detroit) and therefore they loathe lending out, especially for out-of-town shoots with people they don't know.
5. Plan a story that doesn't need a lot of clothing. Why not shoot a lingerie story? How about a story where the girl is at home, maybe getting dressed (voyeur-like shots) and therefore doesn't need a top or bottom in all the shots? I styled one shoot with designer pieces and the other parts of the models covered in paper. You'll have to be creative. Go light on accessories, since the less you use the more stylish the photos will seem (in most cases).
6. Try cruising sites that list stylists (like modelmayhem.com). This is hit or miss but you can narrow down who is available really quickly. If you are in the worst case ever, you can offer to fly someone in from NYC if they can bring the clothes you need (piggy-backing). You'll have to pay for the flight, their transport, food and the styling fee but it might end up being your best chance.

I hope that helps and good luck on the shoot!

 

[Meg]

Those all sound like good suggestions but I think the one that really stuck out for me is local boutiques. I've always had good working relationships with all the boutiques I shop at and there are lots in the Detroit/Birmingham/etc. area. For them to have a professional looking styled picture with clothes that they are currently selling (even better if it is featured in a magazine and they get free press) is great. And obviously dry clean all the clothes before giving them back. I think if you are small time this is your best bet.

 

[Stylebites]

Those all sound like good suggestions but I think the one that really stuck out for me is local boutiques. I've always had good working relationships with all the boutiques I shop at and there are lots in the Detroit/Birmingham/etc. area. For them to have a professional looking styled picture with clothes that they are currently selling (even better if it is featured in a magazine and they get free press) is great. And obviously dry clean all the clothes before giving them back. I think if you are small time this is your best bet.

I hope that they're helpful!

 

[TheDesignStudent]

Here.

I'm interested if there are any other interests in the topic.


Perhaps recent developments from others...?

 

[50two]

hello people!
I'm a 17 year old photographer, I'm in my last year of high school, but I'm trying to get ahead as much as possible. I've done several tests with agency models (you can see my online port here).
I don't have connections to any stylists, I pretty much "style" the shoots I do myself... I've been thinking of contacting the local design schools and asking if I could work with some of their students? Would this be a good idea? Is it not completely unheard of? I've tried contacting working stylists but never get a reply... I know talent exists in schools (I mean, I'm still in school, right?) but I feel so apprehensive about calling and actually asking... Its hard not to be intimidated and nervous when there's absolutely no one to guide you on how to do things... does anyone have any advice for me?

 

[BetteT]

I think that is a great idea. What's the worst that can happen ... that they just say no?

I've worked with students in photography schools (I'm a stylist) ... but they contacted me, so I'm not sure if the school had a list of stylists. But I"m thinking they do and maybe design schools have lists of photographers who want to test.

If you are using agency models ... make sure you let the school know that you are able to get them (name the agency ... it will help). You should offer to provide free copies of pics (give the student their choice, because they will only be interested in the shots that show off their work) for the student's use for thier portfolios in exchange for thier participation. Of course, invite the student desginer to help style at the shoot and to colaborate with you.

You might also check to see if there are any schools in your city that teach styling (there are not many, but in some cities you can find it) and offer your services there, in exchange for styling services (students must provide wardrobe or at least be able to supplement what you and the model have).

Here are some releated threads that might interest you:

Stylist & Photographer: working together
About Your Portfolio and Testing, for Freelance Stylists, Hair/Makeup Artists etc.
Fashion Stylists: Clothes and Connections!


And don't forget ... in the Behind the Lens forum we have a networking thread for photogs and crew ... you might want to post your info there, just in case there is an aspiring stylist in your city who might want to test:

Networking: Photographers, Stylists, MU/Hair Artists, Etc. See Post #1 for Rules

 

[lafindesiecle]

totes unprofessional, but for model tests, i've definitely, uh, gone to the store with a credit card, picked up a few pieces specifically for the shoot, left the tags on and then, uh, returned them.... i should probably be shot.

 

[lmelanie]

i know a lot of people who do that. it just becomes tricky if you do it all the time. I work at a retail store and we are really strict about stuff like that.

 

[BetteT]

Yeah ... it's done all the time by models, photographers and beginning stylists. And no ... the stores don't like it and can stop you if it's excessive. If caught, they could refuse your returns.

The key is to rotate stores ... don't lean heavily on one ... only a few items from each store. Keep the clothes in pristine condition so that they can still sell them (no sweat stains, please, use sheilds if you must). Leave tags on (or get a tagger gun and put them back on ... making sure that you have the same size & color of that plasic thingy that you use to attach tags ... no idea what they are called....). Keep your receipts. And don't use the store's credit cards ... it's way too easy for them to track your activity with them. Use a generic credit card ... better yet, rotate your purchases on several credit cards, if you do this very often. They track by card numbers .... no so much by name, in most cases.