ply by RAGNE KIKAS S/S 2015

[runner]

plicare - apply - ply, a new label from YY inc mainly about knitting.
four kinds of yarn for its first season, two types of cotton, cotton cashmere, cotton viscose.


fashionpress

 

[runner]

1984
Born in Estonia

2006-2009
Internships at Teddy’s Europe GmbH, Ella Deck, Salon Hamburg and Tulpen Design

2009
finalist of Estonian Fashion Designer Contest SuperNoova

2007-2010
Hamburg University of Applied Sciences, BA fashion design, graduation collection "Vernarbt.Verheilt."

2011
Iris von Arnim, knitwear design
finalist of Apolda European Designer Award 2011

2010-2012
Hamburg University of Applied Sciences, MA fashion design (focus on knitwear),
graduation collection "Dress Code Defensive."

2012
finalist of Hyères 2012 - 27th International Festival of Fashion & Photography
Public Prize of the City of Hyères & Première Vision Prize

Since 2012
Yohji Yamamoto Femme, knitwear planner

ragnekikas.com

 

[runner]

Ragne Kikas
Estonia, Women collection, “Dress Code Defensive”

Ragne Kikas is in the process of completing her university education in Hamburg, where she both lives and works. However, she has not left it until now to make her entry into the spotlight. For this, her fifth collection, she takes her inspiration from 15th and 16th Century armour, whose inflexible and angular shapes she translates into knitted fabrics, her preferred medium. By her own admission, she was practically born with knitting needles and crochet hooks in her hands. Despite this, she is not just another chunky knitwear fanatic. Just like Sandra Backlund, whom she cites as a reference, Ragne Kikas is a master of the subject and is passionate about the infinite applications of this method, upon which she applies contemporary influences. Sometimes delicate like a fabric, sometimes bunched up, her material is smocked, pleated, and covered in patterns which grant the clothes their structure. If some of the details are particularly expressive (the shoes and collars), a clear-cut discipline and an economy of means counter-balance these effects, thus providing a happy medium. Ragne Kikas prefers to restrict her palette of colours from silver-grey to black and is careful in adhering to a strict balance between all of the constituent parts. Her language is confined to the abrupt efficiency of her shapes. Ragne Kikas offers her own vision of the radical: each silhouette must be a new sculptural enigma, whilst at the same time being both evident and impenetrable.

Collection produced with support from: Première Vision, Close to Clothes, Eclair Prym Belgium S.A, Tearfil Textile Yarns. Cristals offered from: SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS.

from villanoailles-hyeres.com/hyeres2012


the judges included yohji back then.
and it's very clear that she did the knit stuff for the yohji yamamoto F/W 2013 collection.

fashionjp

 

[runner]

Hyères 2012

from ragnekikas.com

 

[runner]

....

 

[softgrey]

hmm...
seems like yohji and friends were the judges at the 2012 hyeres event...
must be how they met...
i confess i was surprised to realize she was a rather young woman...
but it's a pleasant surprise...

her personal work is out of this world...
she is clearly a big talent...
seems like a great place for her to be and they are lucky to have found her...

i quite like these shapes, though i am less convinced by the colours...
they are VERY 80's...
esp the mint and peach...
in fact- those were probably my fave colours for summertime in the 80's...
just gorgeous with white, for example...
yes- i guess they could be pretty great with some boyfriend jeans or some white puffy pants...

ok-i'm sold...

though i must say that the two black sweaters really are my faves...
i really like the shapes of them...


so- is she responsible for all of the YY long sweaters with all of the threads hanging like some sort of fringe monster!?
hmmm...

thanks a lot for posting all of these runner...

 

[runner]

you're welcome softgrey
they say this is a knitwear collection that is easy to wear while pieces can have unusual colors and details.

armour/shell-inspired, body-conscious, occasional vivid colors, monster.....these are a few of her favorite things, from her personal work ( pics below ). so probably she did the monster fringe stuff too ? but we had seen some fringey things around YY before her participation, whether they were of hair, yarn, tube, cable, wire, or ivy. so it might have been yohji's request as well.
anyway, since F/W 2013 yohji collection, they had been inserting a small part of four full-knitwear looks on the runways, which seemed even a bit unnatural. that must be her introduction or practically their declaration of her being there. in fact, the jacket and dress from the F/W 2013 were identical in design to those from hyères 2012, her own "dress code defensive" ( though perhaps different in production ).


ragnekikas.com

 

[runner]

from yohji yamamoto F/W 2013
S/S 2014
F/W 2014


yohjiyamamoto
fashionpress
antonioli

 

[runner]

ragne kikas at premiere vision preview new york, the metropolitan pavillion july 2012

premierevision

 

[softgrey]

well- she's super talented...
and also somewhat crazy...
...

and excellent combination, imho...
...


thanks for those pics and the additional info runner...
seeing her full looks on yohji's runway is fascinating...
they make much more sense when you see them together like that and standing on their own...
*it also explains the knitted footwear (which i can't say i was a big fan of)
...



i hope this goes well...
i'd like to see how she grows...
this will be fun to watch...
it's like discovering a super star...
how cool~!!!...
...

thanks again runner~!
...

 

[softgrey]

about the colours-

to be honest...
unexpected colours are fun...
but i hope there will still be some nice neutrals...

i think her work looks better in a basic colour...
it's so complex...
the colour is almost distracting and one thing too much...

my guess is that each piece will be available in black as well as various colours, so i guess that's fine...

she is designing YY knits and they are giving her her own label...
every young designer's dream...
...