Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2012

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NEW YORK, January 9, 2012

By Nicole Phelps

For metaphors, you can't beat the setting of Prabal Gurung's first-ever pre-fall presentation: the 58th floor of the new Setai Hotel on Fifth Avenue. With his new ICB deal and his latest red-carpet coup on Golden Globe nominee Rooney Mara, Gurung is a designer on the upswing. He set himself a challenge with his new pre-collection: incorporate more easy-to-wear pieces into the mix, and he delivered. For one, there's his new T-shirts (much blogged about on fashion sites last week), and for another there's the bomber jackets, running shorts, and fit-and-flare knit dresses that he's added to the lineup.

Gurung's starting point this season was India—not the "obvious India" that designers tend to think of, but "the muddy India, the ruins," he said, speaking from experience. "It can be harsh, really, but it's still beautiful." Accordingly, the glitz factor was near zero. He relied on a kaleidoscope print for his dresses and separates rather than the glitzy embroideries he's sometimes been known for. The palette was just as focused; in addition to black and white, he zeroed in on emerald green and a subtle, earthy pink. At the time of our appointment, a silk cocktail dress in the former was already in the possession of a famous red-carpet-bound actress the name of whom Gurung wouldn't reveal. Like we said, upswing.
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style.com
 
Very nice! Nicely executed, beautiful fabrics.
I have to say I'm quite intrigued by that handkerchief-hem verging on a drop-waist - it's quite a unique silhouette.
 
I love the inspiration, and the emerald colors. Beautiful fabrics and dresses.
 
Great collection:woot:, continuing his streak from spring, love all the printed dresses and the floral applique dress and the emerald evening pieces are gorgeous:heart:, perfect for the red carpet. Very excited for his fall show now:D
 
wow, I like most of the looks. I agree about the fabrics, they look so expensive and beautiful.
 
Looks amazing! I'm a sucker for flared dresses and skirts. The silhouettes and shapes are fantastic. I also love the pink sunglasses on the third post.
 
by Esther Adams​

Prabal Gurung presented his debut pre-fall collection off the back of a very successful series of events: being a runner-up in 2010’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, a well-received first resort collection, and that recent red-carpet moment in which hot young actress Rooney Mara sizzled in his frilled, cutaway minidress for the New York premiere of The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo. All things considered, it makes perfect sense that Gurung would take time to pause, reflect, and perhaps even allow a little nostalgia to inform his next move. “I got to thinking about my time back in India,” said the designer who trained at National Institute of Fashion Technology in Delhi during the late nineties. “But this is a side of it that nobody has really seen, the smoggy, gritty reality.”

Not that there is anything remotely harsh or challenging about these familiar and elegant silhouettes, chosen to slip easily into an existing wardrobe. Rather, Gurung’s trademark graphic sheaths, undulating flared skirts and crisp, straight-leg pantsuits were rendered in a more subdued, earthen color palette and uplifted with jewel tones, prismatic prints, and a gentle introduction to opulence. “It’s less about obvious embroidery and more about fabric, texture, and the depth within the print,” he explained of the restrained notions of craftsmanship at work—shimmering silver embroideries threaded through Lurex and cashmere jacquard knit dresses and lacquered, patchwork-tweed T-shirts, employed to allow, as Gurung tells it, “a new girl to get familiar with what I do.”

With his latest viral campaign—underscored with DJ Pictureplane’s contagious dance beats, while models, viewed as if through a kaleidoscope, twist and turn at will—gaining that desired notoriety appears to be within reach. “This is a really important season,” Gurung continued emphatically. “And once it’s established, it’ll free me up for more exciting runway shows.” All the designer will reveal of what that means for this fall, is a lift on pre-fall’s luxurious confines and plenty of unutterable surprises.

-vogue​
 

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