Prada S/S 2018 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dior_couture1245]

Ugh. It's a mess.

 

[Benn98]

Oh dear. I don't see any light at the end of the tunnel for her. Pack it in while you can love. I mean as with any Prada show the styling is immaculate, but the clothes? Absolutely irrelevant. There's no bearing the world we're in and I'd go so far as to stay she's firmly stuck in they heyday of Prada which sadly passed years ago.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

I actually loved it except for a few tunics/dresses on post #1 and #2 that looked straight out of Alessandro Michele's trash bin.

I absolutely need that green spider sweater. ink:

 

[liberty33r1b]

disappointing, although I have to admit it looks slightly better in the pictures than in motion

 

[anlabe32]

Messy. Pity after that wonderful Resort show.

 

[Nymphaea]

That's not the way up.

 

[Marc10]

Not her best and some big mishaps (those tunics over pants looks, big no), but overall it's a pretty sweet collection. I think I liked the theme here more than for the menswear. Can't get enough of these comic book prints. It's upbeat, fun and with some fantastic pieces.

Incredible how even at her medium capacity she still makes more exciting stuff than basically everything in the past two cities.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

Not her best and some big mishaps (those tunics over pants looks, big no), but overall it's a pretty sweet collection. I think I liked the theme here more than for the menswear. Can't get enough of these comic book prints. It's upbeat, fun and with some fantastic pieces.

Incredible how even at her medium capacity she still makes more exciting stuff than basically everything in the past two cities.

my exact feelings. I really do love the comic strip prints as well


Also, the girl who closed resembles a young Karen Elson

 

[perhydrol]

It's a real disappointment after that good menswear show. That's surprising because both collections had the same inspiration yet this time it didn't work at all. The styling made it even worse, it was as messy (in a bad way) as the soundtrack. As a whole it's pretty basic but without those spider sweaters there would be nothing really interesting nor unexpected.

If this is their way to revive the brand and make it cool- may the luck be with them.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Noramlly after one of her womenswear shows I find myself daydreaming about owning one of the coats, which have always been her forté, this time around I'm having a hard time finding something I don't dislike. The shirt-dresses weren't all that bad even if they were a bit too Opening Ceremony/Kenzo. For me that one see through suit in pale pink was the strongest look and it's probably what the collection should have been about, that and maybe that look Jing Wen is wearing. I was also very dissapointed to see so many sandals, no one does heels like her and I find that without the aid of fancy footwear the collection lacked glamour.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the soundtrack was just about to give me a headache. Grunge, Lana del Rey, Nina Simone and only god knows what else are just too much to handle in such a short time span.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I think she needs to clean house and get rid of her head designer and design team...they're running this brand into the ground.

As I've said in most Prada threads for the last several years - the styling is just beyond obnoxious at this point. It's so no sophisticated. Cartoon fashion is so over. Can't stand it. These are supposed to be clothes for adults - not tweens! I don't know many adult women who want to look like a cartoon character?

The way forward is very clear to me for this brand - will they do it? I don't know. But Miuccia needs to drop the sets. Enough. Some intimacy would serve Prada well. Part of the reason, I think, that this brand is struggling is that it feels soulless now. Everything has the cold hard stamp of approval from the suits...every garment, every accessory...it all looks pulled straight from a merchandising spreadsheet. I think if she started showing her collections again in the very simple and discreet way she used to in the early 00's, she'd already be halfway there. The set is too ridiculous at this point. It's desperate. And likely too expensive anyway...if you're doing terribly financially...which we all know they are...seeing this big sets looks like champagne on the sinking Titanic.

Next, focus on ONE or TWO, at most, concepts. There are simply way too many silhouettes, shapes, textures, embellishments, prints and fabrications here. PICK ONE. A discerning eye would work wonders at this brand. I'm not even opposed to these silly comic book prints...just strip everything else away and show it to me confidently...with some simple black pumps or mules, natural hair, no make up, one style of a little, discreet black bag (I'm done with seeing your whole bag line on the catwalk). Nothing else. (And tell Frederic Sanchez to please, PLEASE, pick just ONE great song...these new Prada soundtracks will give you whiplash!)

How am I supposed to care about any of this when there's roller prints, comic prints, embellished tweed coats, stripe pants, full length swing skirts, spider intarsia sweaters, leopard print, brocade dresses over trousers, bows, studded sandals....I could go on and on.....it's way too transparent that they're shoving everything into the show in hopes of catching your attention...but what's attractive about desperation? Nothing.

 

[Lola701]

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. I WANT TO BUY EVERYTHING.

This is actually my favorite Prada collection in a long time. I've loved some collections like FW2016 and SS2017 but i've found myself disappointed once in the shop because it looked silly or old (Fw2016 for example)...And that's only because of the styling and the energy of the show.

This actually looks fresh. I think working almost exclusively with cotton helped her to loosen-up a little bit. Some of my favorite Prada collections were focused mainly on one fabric (satin for SS2007).
I love the coats, the pants, the skirts, the shirts and the shoes. It is very RTW and i can appreciate that...

That being said, the styling is once again problematic. In the past, i've felt like the styling was there to "hide" the lack of new ideas or propositions. So it became a gimmick. Like "i'm doing this boring dress and i'll add socks and everything to make it interesting".

This collection doesn't have anything new. It is basically a mix of MiuMiu resort 2016 and 2018 with Prada SS2016. It's more than obvious...So why not go for it and assume this with a minimal styling.
The styling makes it confusing instead of interesting...What's the point of having a printed jacquard dress (very ladylike) over a biker inspired look?

The Gucci "styling" works because Michele doesn't have a single point of view. It's all about putting everything in the runway. Why, when you have such a defined collection use his tricks? This is unfortunate.

This is not going to help Prada at all. Between this and what i can expect from MiuMiu, they need to change their stylist.
MAS could be good for Prada. Seriously...

 

[Spike413]

The thing that's been bugging me about Prada for at least a couple of years now, in fact the main reason I've sort of emotionally checked out when it comes to the brand, is that these collections have all blurred together. They're all overloaded with over-designed pieces which are layered to the hilt. Not a single one of them has surprised me in any way, not one of them has proposed an alternative form of fashion to everything else that's going on, and when you consider that Prada was one of the few reliably surprising shows that managed to flip the script in any given fashion week (sometimes with something as innocuous as a little black dress) that's a huge problem. These last show all seem very much to be a case of coasting, relying on the styling and restyling of what is basically the same idea to sell what are, essentially, similar ideas and pieces over and over. It's the Gucci formula, but I can't really figure out why Prada of all brands needs to resort to it.

Maybe it's just a phase, as Prada the woman and the brand has seemed to go through many over the years, but if it is it feels much more stagnant than others she's gone through. I sure do miss the days when Prada elicited a really strong reaction from me, though.

 

[Pricciao]

Tokkofuku and riot grrrl together is the best thing happened to me in months. Thank you Miuccia

 

[Phuel]

I can absolutely understand a discerning eye, refined taste and an understanding of cut and restraint is not valid in a fashion world that’s desperately seeking the approval of InstaTeens whose idea of style and fashion is playing dressup and piling on ill-fitting clothes with clashing tones like there’s no tomorrow. Their juvenile and amateur tastes are being validated by these high profile labels and the publication industry. Where once we learned and were inspired to be better than what we are by being presented the highest and most challenging of design and beauty standards, and the art of restraint, everything and everyone presented has to be easily understood, relatable and accessible these days in fashion. Or else the kidz lose interest quickly.

Yes, I’m so bored with her sets and soundtrack these days; they add nothing to the fashion. But it’s not a hopeless proposal… The frock coats are the defining piece worn with short shorts. However, the prints, particularly the comic print is so obnoxious. I couldn’t stand it when Gaultier did it over 20 years ago, and to see it now at again at Prada when Hot Topics has the same concept in their trashy offering is just the worst, and shows how high fashion has grinded to a full stop in 2018.

The majority of basics I see in the shops just aren’t worth the price: There are a nice enough sweatsuit for $2000; a nice camel-color corduroy bomber for $3000, and some nice full-cut corduroy pants for $2000… These are basics I already have from OG vintage Helmut and Jil that I still wear. And I’m not interested in another nylon bag.

I find myself taking the time to seek out older designer pieces these days— or taking my existing pieces to a skilled taller and having it customized to my ideal. No way am I going to dress like what fashion is hustling these days.

 

[jeanclaude]

Prada feels already like the past. And ironically she needs to go to her past to try to save the brand.

She used to play with concepts, not with ornaments (and when she did, she made them with a certain purpose in mind). She was part of the avant-garde in the 90s, but in a wearable avant-gardish way.

But now she wants to keep being avant-garde using Trompe-l´oeil prints (which scream Margiela); and comic prints (available since always in any children section at any department store).
And sorry, but comic prints are never attractive from a fashion point of view. JC de Castelbajac and Jeremy Scott are the living proof of this.

Another marketing overdose case.