Prada S/S 2025 Milan

[lookatme]

Piergiordgio Del Moro is probably the most powerful person in fashion after Anna Wintour. Some might argue he is more influential than Anna. He decides which girls have a career and which don't. He casts every big show and every big campaign and every big editorial.

Most people think that model agents have influence but none of them really do at the highest level. They are just admin. Pier controls everything. From who is cast in shows, to who appears on covers. He is the person who decides. The biggest models on earth need their agents to ask him for permission before they book jobs. They answer to him. Why? Because he is not going to invest time into a girl for a random agent to go and screw up all his work by booking them on some easy money job. All these careers are carefully strategised.

He is also very influential in photography, which a lot of people don't know. If he doens't like a team he will tell a magazine to change it. If they don't, then they don't have access to his 'stable' of girls. He can make or break a photographers career the same as he can with a model. He really is the gatekeeper to the inner circle. Sounds lame but it's the truth.

Brokaw has been second best casting director for a long time but still influential. There are a lot of big clients out there and PG can't do all of them. Brokaw does the rest. There are other good casting directors of course. Julia Lange, Larissa Gunn, Adam Hindle, Shelly Durkan etc to name a few. I'm missing a lot of them but there are 20 or 30 in the next tier down. None of them can really compete with the machine that DM (Pierre) casting is. If anything, they all copy and imitate.

It is just as political and polarised as any other power dynamic. PG girls will very seldom do Brokaw shows and vice versa. Sometimes they crossover, but not often. It's a sweet spot for a girl to be in the favour of both of them. Currently there's only 5 or 6 models worldwide that do both. Once you notice it you can't unsee it. If there's a Brokaw casted show that is 6 hours apart from a PG show you might see some of the girls cross boundaries. But as with this morning (max mara and Jill sander), not one single top girl will do a Brokaw show if it is in defiance of PG. Small clue but Aylah Peterson fell off for a reason. She did Brokaw stuff without permission.

That's the gist of it.

He's very tacky. He doesn't really have a POV aside from YAS MAMMA SERVE HUNNY ICONIQUE QUEEN. Just another one of these Instagram basic gays that have taken over fashion. He's king of the stunt casting...always gunning for a gag. Meanwhile, anyone with taste and real interest in fashion rolls their eyes when he trots out some #tbt model while he's thinking "I REALLY DID THAT."

 

[signifier]

He's very tacky. He doesn't really have a POV aside from YAS MAMMA SERVE HUNNY ICONIQUE QUEEN. Just another one of these Instagram basic gays that have taken over fashion. He's king of the stunt casting...always gunning for a gag.

Agree.

 

[Overindulgence]

I watched the show, enjoyed the collection, read the comments here, wanted to dislike the collection, but looked through the photos and am sticking to my opinion of liking it. Very weird, yes, but it was first Prada show in a while where I would go back to look at a look again. There were some very chic and fresh looks in there - Julia Nobis's look with the fringe skirt and striped sweater, look 14 is going to be styled on Cynthia Erivo for all of the upcoming Wicked promo for sure, look 16 (white blouse, black skirt, and the belt) is chef's kiss, look 17/21/24/29/42 were just very Prada to me in a way I haven't seen in a while.

I'm not the biggest fan of re-edition shoes but maybe this is an attempt on Prada's end to turn those pieces into classic pieces and of course cash in on the archive craze. The specific pieces they choose to re-make (such as the shoes chosen) are great though.

 

[LadyJunon]

He's very tacky. He doesn't really have a POV aside from YAS MAMMA SERVE HUNNY ICONIQUE QUEEN. Just another one of these Instagram basic gays that have taken over fashion. He's king of the stunt casting...always gunning for a gag. Meanwhile, anyone with taste and real interest in fashion rolls their eyes when he trots out some #tbt model while he's thinking "I REALLY DID THAT."

The only times I've liked DM's castings was for Courreges and Saint Laurent. Outside of that, his castings always look the same.

 

[Faith Akiyama]

I had my doubts as well, but this was actually styled by Olivier Rizzo as always. Maybe Lotta put a spell on him somehow. It's undeniable that Miu Miu got the most of the press attention and buzz in last few seasons..
I feel like this is an unsubtle effort to put some shine on Prada again, but approached in a completely wrong way. It's really a hot mess.

I heard that Rizzo was ill this season...but maybe he recovered and ended up styling last minute?

 

[90sfan]

I heard that Rizzo was ill this season...but maybe he recovered and ended up styling last minute?

What?!? Spill the tea… Poor guy… It did not look like he styled it, or he’s trying to do more younger/cooler styling, and it just looks like a mess

 

[90sfan]

Everything Raf does is so miserable and soulless. He should retire, go on vacations and bounce on some dick instead of destroying another brand.

You are too funny!!!! 😂 😂😂😂😂😂

 

[Kennnnn]

Above all, this reminded me of JW Anderson's recent work, especially in the use of wired hems and collars, stiff materials, trompe l'oeil, etc. Some of the pieces are quite chic, mostly because i think they are based on Miuccia Prada's personal style - like the car coats, skirts, etc. But I didn't quite understand the use of the archived pieces (like those sandals from spring 1996, and the pussybow blouses from 2000) - is this supposed to be a kind of mini retrospective?

 

[Alquimista]

Ok, one more post: while the clothes are less overdesigned, there is still bad design. The stupid wrinkled shirts, the suspenders (?) on the skirts. The pieces I do like are the coats with the fur collars, very miuccia, and one skirt with a diamond pattern. And the rest is filler
and feels like archive pieces.

Not to mention the overral look being very miu miu. It's a girl's look. And she's quite insufferable and pretentious like raf. Basically Lotta.

 

[tourbillions]

are they avoiding giving in to outlet stores and upcycling all their past rtw?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I’ll comment on the collection later. I do have a question, why are the shoes from Fall 2012 in here? Did someone randomly find them in the office and decide to throw them in there?



Vogue

 

[bennyboy]

I was happy to see Prada bring Prada back until Raf show off at the end

 

[george5]

How many more fashion houses does Raf need to ruin before he gets cancelled?

Seriously, we don't talk about this enough. His last 2 years at Jil Sander He threw the house's legacy under the bus to show those tragic 50's couture inspired collections, only to get a big french brand position. Then when He finally moved to Dior, even though the press and critics tried to deny it, the house was going down short after his appointment. And I won't even take time to talk about his Calvin Klein tenure...

 

[Creative]

Just saw it once and fast, but I LOVE IT! Best Prada collection in like… 15 years? It has the fashion energy of the 2000s.

It’s super Prada. Well done.

 

[lookatme]

I’ll comment on the collection later. I do have a question, why are the shoes from Fall 2012 in here? Did someone randomly find them in the office and decide to throw them in there?

View attachment 1307367

Vogue

Most of the shoes were reissues/redesigns.

I see some flat loafers and sandals from Spring/Summer 2005, winged and ruffled heels from Fall/Winter 2008, stacked brogues from Spring/Summer 2010, heeled loafers from Fall/Winter 2010, these dipped platforms from Fall/Winter 2012...

 

[Creative]

Most of the shoes were reissues/redesigns.

I see some flat loafers and sandals from Spring/Summer 2005, winged and ruffled heels from Fall/Winter 2008, stacked brogues from Spring/Summer 2010, heeled loafers from Fall/Winter 2010, these dipped platforms from Fall/Winter 2012...

I also loved that they did that… it’s a first if I’m not mistaken.

I’m missing a bit more editing and processing more the ideas though. It still has the RAF touch with his pretentiousness which I hate…. But still pretty good.

I wish they had developed the sheer dresses/skirts ideas. Love the cut of some of the jackets and some coats… the skinny pants.

 

[Tchi]

I am confused, it looks like Demna and Alessandro possessed RAF and decided to borrow shoes from Miuccia’s closet. I don’t know if I like, it is stubborn impossible to understand, it is very uncohesive and I can’t pick anything mémorable à part from the shoes greatest hits compilation. Challenging, pretentious, élitaire, stérile. Relevant? I am not sure yet

 

[Creative]

Okay, it’s not that good. Some cool things here and there but much of it looks quite cheap and underdeveloped.

 

[lookatme]

Okay, it’s not that good. Some cool things here and there but much of it looks quite cheap and underdeveloped.

ROFL this turnaround

 

[GivenchyHomme]

EvilMost of the shoes were reissues/redesigns.

I see some flat loafers and sandals from Spring/Summer 2005, winged and ruffled heels from Fall/Winter 2008, stacked brogues from Spring/Summer 2010, heeled loafers from Fall/Winter 2010, these dipped platforms from Fall/Winter 2012...

I noticed that most of them were reworked. However, the ones from Fall 2012 look unchanged.

Now if they really wanted to get people taking they should have reissued the socks and platforms from Spring 2009.