Proenza Schouler S/S 2025 New York

Those Madame Grès-inspired jersey dresses are lovely but as a whole, it’s like Victoria Beckham or Khaite: A well-edited commercial collection, where you can clearly tell the designers whose looks found their way on a mood board: Helmut Lang, Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, Céline.

Back in the early days, they used to have their bustier tops as a signature. I couldn’t tell these days what’s their's.
 
Those Madame Grès-inspired jersey dresses are lovely but as a whole, it’s like Victoria Beckham or Khaite: A well-edited commercial collection, where you can clearly tell the designers whose looks found their way on a mood board: Helmut Lang, Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, Céline.

Back in the early days, they used to have their bustier tops as a signature. I couldn’t tell these days what’s their's.
Their signature is copying from Phoebe Philo, to the point of being obsessed. S/S 2025...and they keep doing it!
Time to change the name to "Phoebe Schouler"!
 
From Vogue Runway Review:
“We really stripped things back to the point where we felt like there wasn’t a lot more to strip beyond last season,” McCollough said. “This season, we’re rebuilding some of our codes from the past in new ways”

What codes? It’s literally design codes from other designers.
 
Could a mod edit the title of the thread please? This must be an only shown to the press Céline show circa 2015. Thanks 😗
That’s why it’s half good I guess… plenty of fillers when you uninspired, and dare I say better than the current Phoebe Philo.
 
all these unnecessary flaps and volumes highlight how devoid this is of vision and DNA. Theres something very banal about this color palette also, with the pink shoes as a main offender.
The simpler looks work, theres one blue coat that is nice, but theres something tortured about it.
They designed themselves into a very humourless corner of fashion, its gonna be hard to break out of this.
 
Those striped fringe disasters remind me of this PP/Celine protoype. The grecian gowns were unexpected, yet felt out of place. They honestly could’ve edited this down to 31 looks, because everything that came after that lavender gown was nauseating.

 

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