Rabanne Pre-Fall 2025 Paris

It's more of a resort than pre-fall with the beach scene. It looks great, but I am sure it is extremely badly made, as always
I went to Dover Street Market the other day, that machine sequin polyester shirt has no lining, even the inside cuffing and collar are sequin itchy af
 
I dunno what´s worse here: the basic childish "sea inspiration" on prints and ornaments...or the meh-tallic details here and there, to remind us this is in fact a Rabanne collection (and not any other random brand).
 
There are some really great pieces here but the styling, setting and models are awful , there is 0 glamour in this
 
So unfortunate he’s lost his identity so quickly for Paco Rabanne and now so completely absorbed into Ghesquiere’s Vuitton budget diffusion line. (Whether that’s a good or bad thing— since Ghesquiere’s runway looks never make it in their original form to the racks, is a matter of personal preference.)

The floor-length dresses and skirts are hideously cheap-looking and looks like it belongs in a Target collab.
 
More random stuff. If this were the Moschino Pre-Fall Collection, you wouldn't know. No identity, no signature, no POV. Why not just do eveningwear if this is all that you are realistically going to sell? I can't imagine that this kind of ready-to-wear is a viable business. The "best" (used lightly) parts are the stuff his copies from Gheqsuiere, like this look that could be from the back row of LV Pre collection:

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But you really have to wonder: Who is going to Rabanne for THIS look?

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Looks like Jacquemus doing Uniqlo.
 
(Whether that’s a good or bad thing— since Ghesquiere’s runway looks never make it in their original form to the racks, is a matter of personal preference.)
Resort is in stores now. Runway looks included…The same as FW 2024.
 
some great stuff here. that pink spiral fringe gown is gorgeous. some innovative material usage. There is a major problem with some of it looking cheap, particularly the sportswear.
 
There is a loss of identify at Rabanne, and has been for a very, very long time.
Tbh it’s not an easy brand to build up on. The owners are lucky that Dossena ultimately worked from a financial POV.

The brand has never had an « identity » to begin with. They have a signature fabric and an association to a time period but from the moment they started to do fragrances it allowed the brand to exist without Paco Rabanne or even Christophe Decarnin caring about making something in line with a certain identity.
 
A lot of brands from the 60's got stuck in the 'space-age' designation and never left at least Dossena is trying to move the brand on from that image. However imo the brand which has left that era of design best is Courrèges, di Felice's first collection updated the 60's space-age designs of André for 2021. The AW24 and SS25 have gone into a what we now view the future as perspective which I think is going to work well for the brand (however I wonder if it will age badly in around 30 or so years like space age design did, but we have people praising the latest Pierre Cardin collection so who knows)
 
A lot of brands from the 60's got stuck in the 'space-age' designation and never left at least Dossena is trying to move the brand on from that image. However imo the brand which has left that era of design best is Courrèges, di Felice's first collection updated the 60's space-age designs of André for 2021. The AW24 and SS25 have gone into a what we now view the future as perspective which I think is going to work well for the brand (however I wonder if it will age badly in around 30 or so years like space age design did, but we have people praising the latest Pierre Cardin collection so who knows)
The difference is that Courreges always had a commercial reality. When Andre was there, they were doing the knitwear, the vinyl jackets and things like that. The brand didn’t have a fashion voice but there was some kind of « street relevancy ». And even in the vintage market, in France alone the jackets were very successful and that’s what prompted to idea of a revival in the first place years ago when Pinault wasn’t the owner of the brand yet.

That’s why the development of the brand was rather fast. The collections of Di Felipe were great but the brand was having some sort of momentum already (similar to when DVF relaunched her brand because women were looking for vintage wrap dresses in the late 90’s).
 

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