Richard Nicoll Preview
by Chioma Nnadi
As designer Richard Nicoll adjusts a cotton piqué cocktail dress on model Kristina Salinovic, the title track from David Bowie’s seminal album Station to Station hums around his East London studio. The Australian-born British designer was planning to use the song for his show long before he knew he’d be presenting the new collection on a railway platform—Topshop’s epic space at the old Eurostar terminal at Waterloo station—and the serendipitous synergy of it all makes him chuckle. With a brunette mannish crop, Salinovic could pass for a darker version of Bowie’s flaxen-haired first wife, Angela Bowie, and multiple images of the androgynous beauty are pinned to Nicoll’s inspiration board. There are pictures of the Thin White Duke himself up there too, and no doubt he would appreciate the ultrasharp tailoring Nicoll has become know for.
Well-hewn separates aside, the focus this season is on the dress, specifically the kind of casually glamorous cocktail attire that tempers luxury with a sense of modesty. “I was really interested in playing with the internal structures,” says Nicoll, pointing to a dress lined with the working precision of a bespoke men’s jacket. “Just like Angie, it’s about handsome femininity.” Nicoll’s signature sporting edge is still very much present, but now suede bombers and silk tees are paired with whimsical floor-length skirts. What’s more, he’s adding to the season’s hemline debate, layering knife-pleated minis over diaphanous long layers