Rick Owens Menswear F/W 2023.24 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[bc collector]

Rick, please please please: do not start getting predictable too, you are our last hope.

P.s.: will you dump the Tyrone guy already? He's having a really bad influence on you...

 

[MulletProof]

^ start? he's been predictable his entire time in Paris, that's why he was good.. he got too comfortable/overly confident with his own parameters and his work became this insufferable cliché that mostly distills an odd combination of smugness and cluelessness. Very late stage of what was a good career.

You give a model too much credit, he's just a guy he wishes he looked like and is simultaneously horny for.

This is a bit more polished than some of his last.. 20? collections. The first jacks in post #2 look nice!. But still.. not a label I would ever bother pinning any hopes on.

 

[Machinegumm]

This left me completely cold. It's nice and all, but there's nothing that particularly catches my eye. I just scrolled past it and was left with a feeling of "whatever."

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Smugness and cluelessness are good descriptors. But just everything that comes out of his mouth makes me sigh. I remember one of the shows right before covid he was talking about how he was annoyed with the daughter of this old Mexican cartoonist because she wouldn't allow him to use her father's work as prints in the collection. She said something along the lines of "you can honor him by reading his comics." and he was like "??? but i'm honoring him with these tasteful clothes ???". Ok sure. Along with using exotic leathers and it's so great bc it gives indigenous people an income harvesting them.

 

[MulletProof]

^ who was the cartoonist? (dead, I assume?)

That entitlement is so normalised now, very 'me, and myself, and my work, and then you.. servicing me and my work' . I was just having a conversation about this with a friend who's an artist and was contacted by a best seller author to 'flesh out' a character in a new book after her.. no context on the book or anything, just, please donate yourself, personality and achievements, for an honorable cause (my work). And watch them pout if you politely decline!

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Yes he passed in 2017. His name was Eduardo del Rio aka "Rius" and the comic was "Los Supermachos"

 

[GoldenTribe]

He should have retired after the first show with those KISS boots in them, he has just been regurgitating the same stuff over and over since then and it isn't getting any better.

Somebody wake me up when (if) he designs a new shoe.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Rick, please please please: do not start getting predictable too, you are our last hope.

P.s.: will you dump the Tyrone guy already? He's having a really bad influence on you...

Too late.

 

[Phuel]

Never been bothered by him because never cared for him LOL It was always a certain type of boys/guys that gave his brand of aesthetic such an obnoxious flavour that it strongly tainted his brand— you all know the type…

…But this constantly parading his boytoy in some state of various undress… Everyone gets it loud and clear, Rick: You’re fcuking that. Frankly, with his money and fame, he could do a lot better, but good for him to be so proud of this guy that it’s almost embarrassing that Tyrone is the only one in the show that’s showing off his body LOOOL It’s almost endearing how Rick is so smitten by him.

(The clothes are so instantly forgettable, as usual.)

That entitlement is so normalised now, very 'me, and myself, and my work, and then you.. servicing me and my work' . I was just having a conversation about this with a friend who's an artist and was contacted by a best seller author to 'flesh out' a character in a new book after her.. no context on the book or anything, just, please donate yourself, personality and achievements, for an honorable cause (my work). And watch them pout if you politely decline!

I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing such delusion, conceit and pure self-absorption from the very start of my career: A nice woman told me that I could “namedrop her” to impress potential employers… LOOOOL The hilarious egos of even these nobodies sort of make the even worse egos of more well-known individuals tolerable.

 

[jeanclaude]

It is always 2019 in Rick´s mind...let us now when you stop f*cking that blonde hustler; and you feel like evolving your work again.

 

[tricotineacetat]

All the expected theatrics aside, I think this collection has a few beautiful moments, like the oversized mauve fishscale bomber, or basically any of the more toned-down outerwear pieces. I would never, never wear any of these pieces styled as is but I'd rather have Rick's sculptural shapes over Antony Vaccarello's amateurish attempts at any given day. Rick vision is backed up with craft that shines even at a time when he's creatively a bit stuck.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I don't think I'll ever take Rick seriously after finding out he bought a sarcophagus to keep on display as decoration in his house/studio/brutalist concrete tomb. Suppose Michele Lamy has to sleep somewhere but it is rather unnerving.

Now I can appreciate some exotic furs, use of skins and pelts and what-have-you. But I hate the execution here. Cheapening what are rather gorgeous and poetic materials, it's kind of disgraceful especially seeing them used on those boots. I hate these boots with a passion, but it sure as hell makes Rick and the accessories department's life a whole lot easier churning them out again and again.

Some nice colours and textures in here though.

 

[LadyJunon]

I hate these boots with a passion, but it sure as hell makes Rick and the accessories department's life a whole lot easier churning them out again and again.

They're like the Margiela "Tabi Boots". They're cool the first few times you see them but they become jaded and tacky so quickly due to overuse.

 

[THD96]

Every time see the pagoda shoulders/oversized shoulders again in a RO collection I know it going to be another collection of caricatures of his former heyday.

Complete with his "wife " sloppy eyes make up. This parade couldn't get anymore obnoxious.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I find the collection mediocre but not disastrous, there are still quite a few beautiful pieces like the goatskin coat with seams radiating from the chest, the suede parka in mauve, the sage green bomber and there’s a nice cropped wool top that, to my surprise, I would totally wear.

He really needs to get out of this corner he’s gotten himself into, so far he’d managed to be true to himself while avoiding stagnation…we do need his design voice but not just to repeat the same thing over and over again.

 

[Drusilla_]

Some nice jackets and outerwear in there but this is far from his best. I suppose every designer has fallow spells, it's impossible to be at the top of your game all the time in an industry that demands output like clockwork....still far from his best though.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I just started watching the vid and I'm pretty sure I caught one of the photographers rolling his eyes and shaking his head at Tyrone LOL

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Pretty hilarious that daddy Rick gets a free pass on the obvious use of exotic-lite furs and hides whereas Roseberry gets hounded for the faux heads. Not in support of Roseberry's pointless execution, but dang fashion twitter stans and grammers is amusing at times with their battle pickings.