Rick Owens Menswear S/S 2024 Paris | the Fashion Spot
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Rick Owens Menswear S/S 2024 Paris

No thanks, this ain‘t it.

after last years' super acidic yellow and fuschia, this all-black collection feels pretty drab and heavy. I’m also not so convinced that these very high waisted trousers are a strong proposal that can work on anyone but the skinniest of people.

I‘m missing a bit the Rick whose collections, despite being very ambitioned in terms of design, remained plausible and wearable.
 
I like the hooded blazers, belted and unbelted, but that's about it. His experiments with shoulders are nauseating, whether they go wide, high or pointy, it's all depressingly ugly.

I feel a certain inherent pleasure at the lack of KISS boots, but those I-broke-my-leg-so-I-could-wear-a-Rick-cast sandal-boots aren't much of an improvement.
 
OMG… his BF is a real life Gelfling…

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(Anyway, after briefly suffering through the Vuitton spectacle of a mess-- because no way could I tolerate the entire show, that’s the epitome of being assaulted by crass consumerism, this is much appreciated. Never cared for him frankly, just that not a single design that resembles tacky status monogrammed canvas bags as clothes is enough of a principle to approve of Rick's reliable and unmistakable signatures on parade. Truth be told, this makes for better and stronger costumes for Blade Runner than hanging on a rack at Maxfield.)
 
I respect his work on the body and proportion. I think there’s some nice sculptures here and there. But as a collection and proposition it’s becoming extremely hermetic, even for the Rick gang I imagine.

the work on the trousers in the beginning is interesting where it’s creating almost a pedestal for roomie tops. Later in the collection it just becomes too much on the body. Volumes seem to move in weird ways rendering the models extremely uncomfortable.

I needs a palette cleanser, something fresh for Rick.
 
I see a lot of things for myself in here but given the growing fan base of RO, I always feel like he is almost trolling them by showing this.
The majority of the newfound crowd of Rick would look ridiculous in those clothes.

‘And can we change the shoes now?
 
The jacket in the very last look is cool but the rest is kinda bleh. After reading the show notes I think it's really just a filler collection. He's like Ukraine is so bad so I didn't do anything and made it all black, and also everything is organic and sustainable so that's admirable. I named it Lido because idfk I live there most of the time.

Also those splint boots? It looks like he tried making a subversive edgy version of those red foam astroboy instagram boots but they don't even look finished... they're atrocious.
 
Also I'm gonna be annoying and say that I enjoy looking at the different renditions of platform boots and am kinda sad there's nothing new.
 
The majority of the newfound crowd of Rick would look ridiculous in those clothes.
This! let’s not even go into the flamboyant stuff but the plain black t-shirts every man going through a severe midlife crisis has? the ones that go below the hips and for some inexplicable reason make you look like you have man boobs? just.. NO! :skull:
 
As Amy Winehouse sang it, Rick is "back to black".
And I like it.

It's the first Rick Owens collection I liked in Y E A R S.

NO STUPID ONE MINUTE DRAPING EXPERIMENT WITH PUFFY PINK FABRIC LEFTOVERS.

It's giving Lord Voldemort and his Death Eaters going to a rave and I enjoyed it. Weird proportions but still connected to reality somehow. Finally some clothes and not some costumes ! Not his best collection for sure a step forward towards the true essence of the brand : dark sexy garments for everyday.

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It's very conventional compared to what he has been doing as of late.
 
historically there has been something like depth aesthetics. the more-than-just-beautiful, relativistic aesthetics, horrible beauty, erratic beauty, merciless beauty, classless beauty. theology of aesthetics.
and we have seen someone like a clown, subversive celebrant, trickster, or mountebank. sometimes scourge, at other times scapegoat. revered by means of being despised.

of course, behind one successful transgression, there should have been 100 failed transgressions. or more.

it's not easy to do the wise fool, or madness wiser than sanity. it's very difficult to let your pieces speak of that Je-ne-sais-quoi. good luck to rick.
 

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