Roland Mouret returns with RM
Roland Mouret's new line, RM, is modern yet inspiring and adds a whole new volume, writes Hilary Alexander
It has been nearly two years since Roland Mouret took to the catwalk; his label and signature collections lost from fashion in a bitter fashion divorce from his former business partner.
A glowing report: Roland Mouret 's new line RM is modern yet inspiring
But this morning, in Paris, this son of a butcher who went on to become the inventor of the ‘Galaxy Dress’, returned to the runway, with a new collection, RM, and a new backer, Simon Fuller, the music impresario behind the Spice Girls Fuller and Mouret’s parents took front row seats amongst the audience gathered on the top floor of the Museum of Architecture to watch the debut of Satellite by RM, 21 carefully-edited pieces in a chic, subdued palette of black, grey, navy, cream and white.
All of Mouret’s precise, form-fitting cuts and patterning were there, from the squared-off epaulette-shoulders to the neat, seamed waists to the geometric necklines and inserts.
But there was a a new volume, created by the introduction of skirts cut on the square, folded, table-cloth style to create a more fluid line from hip to knee and featuring pannier-like pockets at either side.
The shape was geometric, formed both by T-square lines and compass-curves.
It echoed, but was a move in a different direction from the Galaxy Dress – a red carpet staple in 2005 – which was worn by a host of celebrities, including Demi Moore, Cate Blanchett, Victoria Beckham, Scarlett Johanssen, Rachel Weisz, Sienna Miller and Nicole Kidman, among others.
The closest the collection came was in the ‘Moon’ dress, in dove-grey stretch cotton with the folded epaulette sleeve, twist-and-fold neckline and hip-pockets.
“I will never forget the Galaxy. I love it and the opportunities it gave me, but I wanted to create a new feminine shape,” Mouret said.
“But that was the past, this is something new. I am RM now. I don’t think I will ever use my name on a label again.”
Star pieces in the collection included a black ‘pinafore’ dress with wide-buttoned straps, a semi-sheer slightly blouson bodice and a slim stretch skirt; a black satin-back crepe full coat with Pierrot collar; a charcoal and white boucle dress with contrast, cream cotton ‘handkerchief hem’ skirt; a sleek navy suit of boxy, zipped jacket, rounded pannier-skirt and dove-grey georgette top with velvet piping; and an ecru silk organza and gazar dress, again with the triangular pannier pockets.
The 21-piece collecgion will be available, to order, from tomorrow (Thursday) on
www.net-a-porter.com and will be on sale in key stores in London, including Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Biowns of South Molton Street and Selfridges, from November.
But we will have a chance to see it, for real, when Victoria Beckham does her first American TV interview with Jay Leno next week.
After the show, Simon Fuller revealed that Victoria – a fan of Roland’s for many years – has already seen the Satellite collection, bought virtually every piece, and will wear one of the dresses for the interview.
Credit:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2007/07/04/efroland104.xml
Big business needs to let go of the designers and allow the creativity to flow freely!
I hate the silhouettes and cuts.Its called Satellite collection!
