March 1, 2006—"I've styled everything from period pieces to Rolling Stone covers, so I think I have a good idea about what men like," says Robert Molnar. Based on his Fall 2006 debut collection, we’ve got to agree. Molnar, who had a well-regarded womenswear line in the late eighties before moving on to magazine and film work, has come up with the kind of cleverly detailed but not-too-flashy clothes—formfitting suits, finely tailored coats, and luxurious, modern sweaters—that we’re always looking for but can never seem to find. The collection was inspired by "natty, Bay of Pigs sort of guys," the designer says, presumably referring to the ones who ordered the invasion, not those who carried it out. With their cropped silhouettes and muted palette, his suits certainly feel Camelot-ready. And knits and outerwear are equally covetable. Cashmere sweaters, available in crew, V-neck, and turtleneck cuts, have seams that break inward at the elbow so sleeve lines don’t bunch as your arm bends, while luxurious shawl-collar pieces fasten with braided, ropelike cashmere belts. But his coolest piece just may be his "monk coat," top right. Fasten its industrial-strength gunmetal snaps for military-formal cuffs and a high double collar, or leave them undone for a look that’s fully casual. Either way, it's an item worth putting on your list for fall right now.
Robert Molnar, $300-$2,000 (estimated), available for Fall 2006 at Atelier, 125 Crosby Street, NYC, (212) 941-8435
