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Robert Normand Fall 2007: New Horizons
Paris Prêt-á-Porter (Paris Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Jean Paul Cauvin
Photos courtesy of Robert Normand
PARIS, Feb 25, 2007/ FW/ --- Although the first day of Paris Prêt-à-Porter week is the young creators’ day and one that major fashion editors can easily skip, Robert Normand has managed to gather the fashion crowds in impressive good numbers this morning at Palais de Tokyo where he was showing for the first time in the official calendar of the Paris Fashion Week. This might be for one main reason: having founded his own first ready-to-wear collection in 2000, he has since then, collection after collection, followed a policy of reasonable growth, targeting retailers first more than the press, although he got some of his creations in international glossies’ editorials.
Everybody was actually talking about him in town in the days immediately preceding this new beginning as one of the must-sees of the day. To promote his previous collections, he had collaborated with photographers and illustrators, showing some innovative spirit respect to the “classic” fashion show and although every expert fashionista had remarked some of his pieces at selected retailers like Colette in Paris or Dernier Cri in New York , Susan of Burlingame in San Francisco, and fifteen stores in Japan, the larger crowds have also been able to buy some of his creations at bigger retailers like Le bon Marché in Paris since 2003.
But this morning showed a turn in his strategy with the brand’s first real fashion show, so everybody in the fashion circle was intrigued with this innovative turn and, to put it briefly, no one was deluded.
The collection Robert Normand has composed for fall 2007 is globally coherent, reasonably creative, nicely tailored, targeted for a young clientele. Although he has maintained the craftsmanship he has developed over his previous collaborations with Lanvin, Lacoste and Pucci -particularly on knitwear- he has also followed his own brand’s established codes: jersey knits and light thread embroideries.
Shades of natural whites to beige, black of course, but also a very particular shade of blue are the highlights of his palette on a basis of coloured greys. His shapes are short coats, baby-doll dresses with a reasonably high hemline, above the knee skirts. He excels at proportions, creating pieces for a young girl who wants to sparkle without wanting to look costumed.
Take for instance his little jersey black dress: it’s revealing enough leg, and has a very nice collar consisting of three layers of matching organza to make it special without making people gasp at you when you pass them. Many pieces in the collection seemed to create a new look for young girls looking for discreetly refined ready-to-wear cocktail or evening dresses.
The way Robert Normand uses embroidery on his pieces is also delicately refined: “broken” patterns are embroidered with thread only and give his creations a resolutely modern edge, revealing discreetly a certain sense of poetry and conferring on his looks a touch of feminine romanticism. The same words could qualify the omnipresent flounces -some horizontal at the hemline, some vertical on the side of a shirtfront, some biased on a skirt- and give coherence to his season’s theme: sharp waves.
The impeccable mounted or raglan sleeves in his jackets, the nicely proportioned shoulders are on the safe side of the season’s picks for a girl’s wardrobe. No wonder a French industrial group has now chosen to associate itself, since January 2007, with Robert Normand, and help him finance the house’s development. They are rightly helping him to grow to the next step as the brand is now expanding faster thanks to creative and commercial efforts, new offices, a permanent showroom and the incorporation of a full team. A stronger retail network is undoubtedly the next step.
Nevertheless, there were some mistakes in this show: the last look consisting of a bustier wide baby-doll dress was illustrating the wavy them efficiently but too literally, and the proportions were probably not as well studied in this typical “only runway” look.
The shoes were all boots made of boiled wool and had the only merit of putting the highlight on garments more than accessories. The clothes could easily be paired with more elegant shoes to make a real style statement.
However, these minor defects did not really affect the general appreciation of the designer’s work: after this first show that has certainly left a landmark on the first day of Prêt-à-Porter, the press should follow Robert Normand regularly on a wider level, as he proved that he has created quite a new silhouette for tomorrow’s young women.